ITALIAN MERINGUE

Makes about 3 cups/710 ml meringue

PLENTY OF MERINGUE PIE RECIPES HAVE YOU MAKE A FRENCH MERINGUE AS their toppings—the type where egg whites are whipped and granulated sugar gradually added until you get a stiff, glossy meringue. The problem is that this meringue is far from foolproof and all too often ends up grainy, weeping on you, or collapsing. We deserve more certainty from our meringue, I’d say.

My choice for pie topping is Italian meringue. This type of meringue takes a little more doing, but the payoff is its stability—it holds, swoops, and peaks like a dream. Because it’s “cooked” by the hot sugar syrup, no further baking is required. For pies, I get a nice controlled toast on it with a kitchen torch, or leave it as is for a silky, fat-free alternative to whipped cream for rich pies that could use a creamy but lighter topping. For the occasional moments that one makes a meringue pie, I say go for the sure thing.

3 large/90 g egg whites, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

¾ cup/150 g granulated sugar

⅓ cup/75 g water

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Place the whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Add the cream of tartar. Beat the whites on medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. Turn off the mixer.

In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, water, corn syrup, and salt. Stirring often, bring the mixture to a full boil. Clip a candy thermometer onto the side of the pot, and cook until the syrup reaches 240°F/115°C.

Turn the mixer back on, on medium speed. In a thin stream, pour just a tablespoon or two of the syrup into the whipping whites. Wait 5 seconds, then pour in 2 more tablespoons. After 5 more seconds, pour in the remaining syrup in a thin, steady stream, aiming for the space between the side of the bowl and the whip. Increase the mixer speed to high and beat until the meringue is thick, glossy, and the bowl is cool to the touch, 7 to 8 minutes. In the last minute of beating, add the vanilla. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.