Regions at a Glance

The six regions outlined here could just as easily be six separate countries. Travel a hundred kilometers or so and everything changes: the food, the clothes, the way people talk and, of course, the scenery. The capital is all big-city buzz, while it’s hard to imagine things getting any more laid-back than they do in the little beach towns down on the coast. Antigua is the epitome of stately colonial charm, whereas the temple-laden jungles and small towns of El Petén have a very rough-and-ready frontier atmosphere. The highlands of the center and west are probably the most similar, but where the volcano-studded west gets chilly and sometimes bleak, the cloud forest–covered center is much milder and more lush.

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Guatemala City

Museums & Galleries

You might be tempted to dodge the capital, but if you’re at all interested in art and archaeology, you need to spend some time here. All the best pieces end up here, often in world-class, superbly curated spaces.

The Big Night Out

The capital’s massive population of students, rock-steady live-music scene and burgeoning nightlife district just off the Central Park make it the best place to go out in the country, hands down.

That Feeling…

For all its craziness and stress, you’re not going to get that big-city kick anywhere else in the country. Just walking down the street can be an adventure – keep your wits about you and you’ll soon learn to love (or at least tolerate) it.

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Antigua

Colonial Charms

Though much of the Spanish legacy in the former capital lies in ruins, even the remaining fragments add allure to the streetscapes, offering picture-postcard views at every corner and a chance to scramble through history.

Back to School

Despite some tough competition, Antigua remains the capital of Spanish-language study in Latin America. Dozens of small, affably run institutes offer personalized instruction in colonial/tropical surrounds at bargain prices.

Gourmet Traveling

Owing to its globally varied visitor profile, Antigua rivals much loftier destinations as a cuisine capital. Here you can enjoy everything from escargots à la Bourguignonne to Argentine empanadas at restaurants run by transplants from their culinary places of origin.

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The Highlands

Fancy Dress

From the pom-pommed headdresses of women in Chajul to the flamboyant red-and-white striped trousers of men in Todos Santos Cuchumatán, traditional Maya clothing is a dazzling display of identity throughout the highlands.

Peaking Out

With a chain of 33 volcanoes, four of them active, climbers, geology buffs and landscape painters find plenty to inspire them here. An early morning hike up the Santa María volcano leads to a mesmerizing view of the periodically erupting Santiaguito.

Party Time

Every highlands town likes to let its hair down at an annual fest, and outsiders are always welcome. Good bets include Quetzaltenango’s late September toast to its Virgen del Rosario and Todos Santos Cuchumatán’s patron saint’s day with madcap horse racing and drunken marimba dancing.

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The Pacific Slope

Sun, Sand & Surf

If you’ve been up in the hills or traveling hard, the whole Pacific coast is dotted with little beach towns where you can crank it back a notch or two and get in some quality do-nothing time.

This Fish is Delish!

With so much coastline it’s no surprise that the seafood here is excellent – fried fish and shrimp are staples, but don’t miss out on the caldo de mariscos (seafood stew) if you see it on a menu.

Animal Frenzy

With whales and turtles in the waters off the beaches and the mangroves buzzing with birdlife, this region is a wildlife-watcher’s paradise. If you don’t get your fill along the coast, stop by the drive-through Autosafari Chapín wildlife reserve.

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Central & Eastern Guatemala

Natural Paradise

From the lush cloud forests of the Verapaz to the verdant landscapes of Lago de Izabal and the Río Dulce, the rivers, lakes, canyons, waterfalls and jungles of this region showcase Guatemala at its natural best.

A Cultural Mosaic

Ethnically diverse and at times intensely traditional, the center and east of the country are home to Achi’, Poqomchi’, Ch'ortí and Q'eqchi' Maya, many of who maintain traditional customs. Over on the Caribbean, the culturally distinct Garifuna represent one more ingredient in Guatemala’s ethnic stew.

Going Underground

The limestone crags, particularly north of Cobán, play host to a network of caves and caverns, making for great photo opportunities and fascinating forays for casual strollers and serious spelunkers alike.

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El Petén

Site Seeing

With literally hundreds of sites sprinkled across the jungle lowlands, you may delve as deeply as you choose into the mysteries of Classic Maya civilization, from the oft-scaled temples of Tikal to the seldom-seen astronomical observatory of Uaxactún.

Animal Planet

Rare and endangered creatures still roam the protected expanses of the Maya Biosphere Reserve, and guides from petenera communities can help you track them down, whether it’s nocturnal crocodile cruising at the Estación Biológica Las Guacamayas or awakening to howler monkeys at Biotopo Cerro Cahuí.

Going Bush

Seasoned guides at places such as Ni’tun Ecolodge on Lago de Petén Itzá or Aldana’s Lodge in Uaxactún accompany you on multiday odysseys through the mud and mosquitoes to such remote Maya sites as El Zotz and El Mirador.