Acknowledgements

Thanks to the other members of my Everest and Lhotse team, including Caroline, Ian, Jay, Louis, Kevin, Margaret, Mel, Peter, Ricardo and Robert, for their patience and company.

I will never forget our amazing Sherpa crew for their cheerfulness, kindness and dignity in trying circumstances. My heartfelt thanks to all of them, including Ang Gelu, Chongba, Da Pasang, Kami Neru, Pasang Ongchu, and Tarke.

I reserve my deepest gratitude for Dorje, a hero and a gentleman.

To Phil Crampton for bearing the stress without losing his head.

To Edita Nichols for her moving account of the Nepal earthquake, and for being the silver lining.

To my editor, Alex Roddie, for his help polishing the text.

To all of you, readers of my blog and diaries. I hope you have enjoyed this one, and I look forward to welcoming you back sometime.

This book is dedicated to the sixteen who lost their lives on 18 April 2014: Mingma Nuru Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa, Ang Tshiri Sherpa, Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Chiring Ongchu Sherpa, Dorje Khatri, Then Dorje Sherpa, Phur Temba Sherpa, Pasang Karma Sherpa, Asman Tamang, Angkaji Sherpa, Ash Bahadur Gurung and Pemba Tenji Sherpa.