Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head
Though it’s heavily developed now, you still have to love Bodie Island, home to the central Outer Banks. Why? If for no other reason than the wonderful, quirky names of the communities here. Where else can you find in rapid succession names as colorful as Whalebone Junction, Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills, and Kitty Hawk?
One of the qualities I like best about the area is its exuberance. And when you think about it, it’s easy to understand why exuberance abounds. It was here that man achieved the first heavier-than-air machine-powered flight, thanks to the dreams and perseverance of Orville and Wilbur Wright. Though the flight lasted only 12 seconds and covered only 120 feet, the world was forever changed that December day in 1903. Such events leave unforgettable impressions.
A hundred years later, people are still soaring from the sand. You can hardly drive by Jockey’s Ridge without seeing a few folks hang gliding and others standing nearby to watch, marveling at the impossibility of it all.
Besides sizing up the hang gliders and visiting Wright Brothers National Memorial, you’ll find a good many diversions in the area. The beaches are fine for sunning and surf casting, and the piers are open around the clock. If the sand doesn’t beckon but the shopping does, you can spend an entire weekend searching for treasures.
Where to Stay
The 1940s Cypress House Inn (800-554-2764 or 252-441-6127; www.cypresshouseinn.com) was once a fishing and hunting lodge in Kill Devil Hills. Today, it’s a comfy inn within a short walk of the beach. To stay in a harbor-like setting, make reservations at the Cypress Moon Inn (877-905-5060 or 252-261-5060; www.cypressmooninn.com) in Kitty Hawk. To enjoy life at a grand seaside inn from the 1930s, book a room at the First Colony Inn (800-368-9390; www.firstcolonyinn.com).
Tidbits
Curious about how those Outer Banks communities came by their names? Kill Devil Hills is generally agreed to have come from a brand of rum, Kill Devil, found washed ashore during colonial days.Kitty Hawk is thought to be the closest English pronunciation of Chickahauk, a Native American word for “goose-hunting grounds.”Nags Head comes from the legendary 18th-century trick of tying lanterns to horses’ necks and walking them up and down the beach at night. Merchant skippers in the offshore waters would mistakenly think the lights were of other ships closer to shore. They would then change course and run aground, and the natives would rob their cargoes. Whalebone Junction recalls the skeleton of a whale that beached nearby in 1927.
Where to Eat
Local residents seem to agree that the Lone Cedar Café, located in Nags Head at the causeway, serves the best fish around. I agree! If you’d like something other than fried fish, go to the Flying Fish Café (252-441-6894) in Kill Devil Hills, where you’ll find steaks, pasta, and ribs on the menu, in addition to seafood. Reservations are often needed, even in the off-season. Looking for java and a sweet roll? Make your way to the Front Porch Café in Kitty Hawk. The cinnamon buns are exceptional. The Black Pelican Oceanfront Café in Kitty Hawk serves good fish and good legends in a 120-year-old lifesaving station.
Ways to While Away the Day
Golf
If your thoughts turn to golf, head to Nags Head Golf Links (252-441-8073 or www.nagsheadgolflinks.com) or Sea Scape Golf Links (252-261-2158; www.seascapegolf.com) in Kitty Hawk.
Heritage
To experience the power of grand ideas, visit Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills. The visitor center tells the inspiring story of how Orville and Wilbur Wright proved, in the face of those who doubted, that man could indeed fly. Displays show the practical problems these two self-taught engineers had to tackle, such as building their own wind tunnel, calculating formulas for propellers, and determining accurate air-pressure tables. Afterwards, you can walk the distance—all 120 feet of it—to see where history was made. The memorial is open from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. every day but Christmas. An admission fee is charged.
Fishing
For pier fishing, visit Avalon Pier, Kitty Hawk Pier, or Nags Head Pier. For surf fishing, pick out a lucky spot along the miles of oceanfront.
Flying/Gliding
Want to see what flying felt like to the Wright brothers? Try hang gliding! Among the local operators is Kitty Hawk Kites (877-359-8447 or www.kittyhawk.com). You can try tandem gliding or take hang-gliding lessons. If you take lessons at Jockey’s Ridge, wear blue jeans to protect your legs and knees when you land on the sand. If you go up in a tandem, wear a jacket—it’s surprisingly cold up there! To leave the flying to others, contact the pilots at Kitty Hawk Aero Tours (252-441-4460; www.kittyhawkaerotours.bizland.com) at Wright Brothers National Memorial. On your flight, you’ll see dolphins cavorting in the surf, the tidal pools on the sound side of the islands, and lots of shipwrecks just past the surf line. If you visit during the winter, call first to arrange a flight.
Paddling
Afraid that sea kayaking is hard? Give it a try and see how relaxing paddling the sound waters can be. Once you learn how to throw your torso into the action instead of just your upper arms, you’re off gliding around the water and looking pelicans in the eye. Nothing could be finer. (Of course, if you paddle into the wind on a blustery day, that’s a different story.) For more information, call Carolina Outdoors at 252-225-4124. If you have your own kayak, bring it. Public launch sites are plentiful. One that’s easy to find is at Jockey’s Ridge State Park.
Sunsets
I know it sounds simple, but what is a beach trip without watching the sun set over the water? Incomplete, that’s what. Whatever your dinner plans, make time to visit Jockey’s Ridge, the highest sand dune on the East Coast, to watch the day’s end over Roanoke Sound. The climb up the dune is tough, but barring overcast skies, the sunset is exquisite. Jockey’s Ridge State Park closes after dusk.
Shopping
Oh, my goodness, it’s possible to shop till you drop along the central Outer Banks. In addition to the large outlet mall located at Whalebone Junction, you’ll find numerous arts-and-crafts galleries. In Nags Head, stop at Gallery Row, located at Milepost 10.5, and find a plethora of studios and galleries. In Kitty Hawk, step into Carolina Moon (252-441-4000).
Festivals/Events
| May | The Hang Gliding Spectacular and Air Games, held at Jockey’s Ridge State Park, Nags Head, and the Currituck County Airport, is the oldest continuously run hang-gliding competition in the country. |
| December | Kites with Lights |
More Resources
For information, contact the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau by calling 800-446-6262 or 252-473-2138 or by visiting www.outerbanks.org.
For other nearby activities, see the “Weekend with Virginia Dare,” “Weekend at the Blue Marlin Capital of the World,” and “Weekend in Currituck Country” chapters.