You surely know the story of how, in 1587, Sir Walter Raleigh sent a third expedition of 116 men, women, and children to Roanoke Island to establish a colony, the first two attempts having been unsuccessful. Arriving too late to plant crops, the colonists agreed that Governor John White should return to England for supplies, which he did a week after his daughter, Eleanor Dare, gave birth to Virginia, the first English child born in the New World. Because war with the Spanish delayed White’s return by three years, however, all he found of the settlement were the letters CRO carved in a tree and the word CROATOAN carved on a palisade. Though attempts were made to find the colonists, no one knows what happened to them. It is the state’s most enduring mystery.
To visit Manteo today is to peer through the ages and appreciate the enormous task the colonists faced. At Fort Raleigh, you can examine just how small the fortification was. At Roanoke Festival Park, you can climb aboard a replica of a ship that brought colonists across the Atlantic. As the ship bobs in the bay beyond the mysterious landscape of live oaks, try to imagine how the colonists felt, away from home and everything familiar.
Will Roanoke Island’s isolation overwhelm you? Of course not. The residents of Manteo are exceptionally friendly and eager to share their charming town and history. And if you venture over to Wanchese, you can soak in the ambiance of an authentic fishing village.
Where to Stay
To be on the waterfront in downtown Manteo, stay at the Tranquil House Inn (252-473-1404; 800-458-7069; www.tranquilinn.com). Located just a few blocks from downtown, the White Doe Inn (800-473-6091; www.whitedoeinn.com) is one of the most striking structures on the island. It’s comfy, too! Stay at the Island House of Wanchese B&B (252-473-5619; www.islandhouse-bb.com) if you plan to fish on the Outer Banks. This inn provides freezer space for your catch.
Where to Eat
If you need a java break or something to snack on, stop in at the aptly named The Coffeehouse in downtown Manteo. If you’re not in the mood for another fried seafood dinner, visit the Full Moon Café (252-473-MOON), also in downtown Manteo; reservations are recommended for dinner during the summer. For an upscale dinner on the Manteo waterfront, go to the 1587 Restaurant (252-473-1587).
Ways to While Away the Day
Aquarium
If the kids are along, or if you’re a kid at heart, put the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island on your agenda. You’ll see fish, touch stingrays, look for flounder embedded in sand, and, best of all, walk through an area where the fish swim over your head. You’ll also learn why the fishing is so good along the Outer Banks. The aquarium is open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 252-473-3493 or visit www.ncaquariums.com.
Gardens
A must-see for any garden lover, the Elizabethan Gardens, adjacent to Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, are simply beautiful. In addition to standard items like roses and herbs, you’ll see a sound-side gazebo and an exquisite sunken garden containing some of the most beautiful crape myrtles in the state. Be sure to walk by the statue of Virginia Dare. The gardens are open seven days a week year-round. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 252-473-3234.
Tidbits
The towns of Manteo and Wanchese get their names from the two Native Americans who returned to England with Captains Philip Amadas and Arthur Barlowe. Amadas and Barlowe led Sir Walter Raleigh’s 1584 exploratory expedition to the New World.
While Manteo is definitely geared to the tourist trade, Wanchese still maintains its fishing-village character, with good reason. Over 20 million pounds of fish a year come through the docks here.
And while I’m talking about Wanchese, do you know what Wanchese wing tips are? They’re the dirty, white-rubber, calf-high boots that the fishermen wear.
Heritage
Interested in where this country of ours started? Then visit Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. You’ll come away amazed at the grit and determination the early colonists had. The site includes walking paths and a museum. For more information, call 252-473-5772 or visit www.nps.gov/fora/index.htm.
Museums
Roanoke Island Festival Park contains several museums, including one that floats! Inside the complex are the Roanoke Adventure Museum, which covers the era of sea voyages, and the Outer Banks Museum, which explains the more recent history and folklore of the area. The one that will captivate your imagination the most, though, is the Elizabeth II, a replica of a 16th-century merchant ship used by Sir Walter Raleigh’s 1585 expedition to the New World. One look at the cargo hold—where the “live cargo” stayed for the journey—and you’ll be impressed that anyone was brave enough to sail across the Atlantic. The park is open daily; hours are brave enough to sail across the Atlantic. The park is open daily; hours are seasonal. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 252-475-1500 or visit www.roanokeisland.com.
While you’re in Manteo, be sure to visit the North Carolina Maritime Museum, where boatwrights construct and restore boats. For more information, call 252-728-7317.
Outdoors
Biking/Walking
In addition to being an exceptionally walkable town, Manteo has one of the best greenways in the state. Bring your walking shoes or your bicycle and enjoy an after-dinner excursion along the greenway, which runs parallel to old U.S. 64.
Cruising
The Downeast Rover, a 55-foot topsail schooner, sails the sound waters twice a day from April through October. During the summer, it departs at sunset. For more information, call 252-473-4866 or visit www.downeastrover.com.
Howling
You’ll have to experience this to believe it! Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, about 10 miles west of Manteo, sponsors howling safaris during the spring, summer, and fall. After assembling, the group heads deep into the refuge and, once close to the wolves, howls. The night I tried it, the wolves answered with a most extraordinary chorus. The full moon that night wasn’t bad either. Take a flashlight and wear insect repellent. For more information, call 252-473-1131 or visit www.outerbanks.com/alligator-river.
Performing Arts
The Lost Colony, one of the state’s best outdoor dramas, has been performed since 1937. It captures the story of the English settlers who arrived on Roanoke Island in 1587, beating the settlers at Jamestown by 22 years and the Pilgrims by 35. This production should be at the top of your to-do list. Performances are conducted in the evening from June through August. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 252-473-3414, 800-488-5012, or visit www.thelostcolony.org.
Scenic Drive
To begin to appreciate the size and importance of North Carolina’s sounds, take a bridge tour by driving west from downtown Manteo on U.S. 64 over Croatan Sound. When the road intersects U.S. 64 Bypass, turn east to cross over the state’s longest bridge, the 5.2-mile Virginia Dare Bridge, which also spans Croatan Sound. U.S. 64 Bypass eventually reconnects with U.S. 64 Business. You can either head back into town or continue with a jaunt over Roanoke Sound via the Washington Baum Bridge.
Shopping
Downtown Manteo is crowded with shops and galleries. Though much of the town has been remodeled, you’ll still get the feel of an English village as you poke around the shops.
| Year-round | Elizabethan Gardens and Roanoke Festival Park sponsor programs and activities throughout the year. |
| June | Dare Day is held the first Saturday in June to honor Virginia Dare. |
More Resources
The best source for information on the area is the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (877-298-4373 or 252-473-2138; www.outerbanks.org).
For other nearby activities, see the “Weekend with the Wright Brothers” and “Weekend at the Blue Marlin Capital of the World” chapters.