The Blue Marlin Capital of the World
Rodanthe, Avon, Buxton, Frisco, Hatteras
My first visit to Hatteras Island, home to the southern Outer Banks communities of Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton, Frisco, and Hatteras, is etched indelibly in my brain. Crossing the Bonner Bridge, I saw white, foamy waves crashing roll after roll out in the blue ocean. It was too magnificent for words. Against the blue of an early-June sky, the sapphire waves roared upon the brilliant, sandy beaches. How could a car travel so close to the surf? Even today, having crossed the Bonner Bridge more than a dozen times, I still thrill at the breathtaking beauty. Whenever life at work becomes stressful or tedious, I take a mental vacation here.
Once you enter Cape Hatteras National Seashore—which encompasses the southern part of Bodie Island and Hatteras Island—you’ll understand the splendid isolation of this long, skinny stretch of land. As you drive, you’ll appreciate the poetry of the shifting sand dunes and swaying sea oats. When you stop to enjoy the ocean, consider that because the Gulf Stream and the Labrador Current are overlapping right before your eyes, the surf fishing and deep-sea fishing here are among the best in the world. Legend says that in the early days, fishermen threw back blue marlin that weighed 400-plus pounds because they knew bigger catches were to be had!
Be ready to experience the wind in your hair, because the wind is sure to blow. Whether you go to enjoy the beach, to wet a hook, or to take in the sights, you’ll probably fall in love with this little patch of heaven.
Where to Stay
Built in 1928, the Seaside Inn Bed and Breakfast (866-986-2700 or 252-986-2700; www.seasidebb.com) provides a comfortable stay in a charming old hunting-and-fishing lodge on the south end of Hatteras Island. In nearby Buxton is Cape Hatteras Bed and Breakfast (800-252-3316 or 252-995-6004; www.surforsound.com/b_and_b.htm). To rough it, you can camp in one of the National Park Service campgrounds. Located at Oregon Inlet, Cape Point in Buxton, and Frisco, they accommodate tents, trailers, and motor homes. They’re open from approximately Memorial Day through Labor Day. Although a stay here qualifies as primitive camping, the campgrounds do have restrooms, potable water, unheated showers, grills, and picnic tables. Sites are assigned on a first-come, first-served basis. For more information, call 252-473-2111.
Where to Eat
You’ll find lots of places to eat fish here. The same family has been operating the Channel Bass in Hatteras Village for 38 years. Another longtime Hatteras Village fixture is Sonny’s, where you can enjoy sausage gravy in the morning and seafood, steaks, and pasta in the evening. The Top Dog Café is the local favorite for burgers and seafood in Rodanthe. If that barbecue tooth talks to you, buzz down to Frisco to visit Bubba’s.
Ways to While Away the Day
Heritage
With the beach beckoning, it’s hard to think about visiting historic sites, but the southern Outer Banks has a respectable number of such places. My favorite is the Chicamacomico (CHICK-uh-muh-COM-i-co) Lifesaving Station in Rodanthe. The station is open during the summer only; you can visit it Tuesday through Saturday from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M. Looking for shipwrecks also makes for an interesting way to spend a day. The schooner Laura A. Barnes, which sank in October 1889, is on display at Coquina Beach. The schooner G. A. Kohler, which sank in August 1933, is on the beach at Ramp 27 outside Avon.
Lighthouses
Although you can’t climb the Bodie Island Lighthouse, the grounds and the keeper’s quarters, now a museum, make visiting worthwhile.
North Carolina’s best balcony surrounds the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in Buxton. When you step outside and the salty air smacks you in the face, you’ll thrill at the windy, blue magnificence of it all. If the lighthouse is open, climb it. It’s an unforgettable experience. From Easter to Columbus Day, the lighthouse is open from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. An entry fee is charged. For information, call 252-441-5711 or visit www.nps.gov/caha/index.htm.
Museums
The Frisco Native American Museum houses a nationally recognized collection of artifacts. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 252-995-4440 or visit www.nativeamericanmuseum.org.
Fishing
With 67 miles of surf at hand, you can always walk over the dunes to find a spot to surf-fish. For pier fishing, visit the Fishing Pier in Rodanthe, Avon Pier, or Frisco Pier. Look for the occasional yardstick nailed to the pier to keep the liars truthful. For something more exciting, try deep-sea fishing from Oregon Inlet Fishing Center (800-272-5199; www.oregoninlet.com).
Hiking
Two trails are worth a look. First is the North Pond Trail in Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. This half-mile handicapped-accessible trail, which cuts among several impoundments that serve as a winter home to thousands of snow geese, comes complete with a viewing tower and telescopes. Most of those who visit come in June, July, and August. Go in the winter and you may have the place to yourself. Another short walk is the 0.75-mile Buxton Woods Nature Trail near the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. If you hike either trail in warm weather, take bug repellent. If you really want to chalk up some miles, walk along the beach on the Cape Hatteras Beach Trail. A part of North Carolina’s Mountains-to-Sea Trail, it’s 67 miles long. Of course, you may need more than a weekend to walk it all.
Tidbits
The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is the tallest in the nation; its light, which warns ships of the treacherous waters of Diamond Shoals, can be seen some 20 miles out. History says that it came by its barber-pole paint job when the engineer who was to paint the lighthouses along North Carolina’s coast confused the plans for the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse—which was to have a diamond pattern because of Diamond Shoals—with those for the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. In 1999, the lighthouse was moved about half a mile, a civil-engineering feat of the highest order. The top speed for moving the lighthouse was two inches per minute.
In recent years, Cape Hatteras National Seashore has welcomed a new visitor, the rare leatherback turtle. Believed to be the world’s largest turtle, it can grow up to six feet long and can weigh up to 2,000 pounds. If you see a leatherback’s nest, please do not disturb it.
Horseback Riding
You know that horseback ride you always wanted to take along the beach? Equine Adventures in Buxton can make it happen. Call 252-995-4897.
Paddling
Kinnakeet Adventures in Avon can put you in a kayak—or a sailboat, for that matter. It also has boat ramps for those who have their own ‘yak; call 252-995-3938. Kitty Hawk Kites runs trips in this area; call 252-441-4124.
Windsurfing
You’ll need a healthy dose of determination to master windsurfing! If you’ve always wanted to try it, the southern Outer Banks is a good place to do so. Check out Windsurfing Hatteras (252-995-5000 or www.windsurfinghatteras.com) in Avon or Fox Watersports (252-995-4102) in Buxton.
Scenic Drive
The incomparable Outer Banks Byway begins at Whalebone Junction (located at the intersection of U.S. 64, U.S. 264, U.S. 158, and N.C. 12) and traverses the length of Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Along the way, you’ll see many of the sites noted elsewhere in this chapter.
Shopping
In Frisco, visit Browning Artworks (252-995-5538; www.browningartworks.com) and Sandy Bay Gallery (252-986-1338) for pottery, stained glass, watercolors, and the like.
Festivals/Events
| May | Hatteras Village Offshore Billfish and Game Fish Tournament |
| October | The Wings Over Water Festival is a celebration of wildlife and wild lands. Field trips, workshops, and seminars offer an insider’s look at Outer Banks habitats. |
More Resources
For more information, contact the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau by calling 800-446-6262 or 800-446-6262 or by visiting www.outerbanks.org.
For other nearby activities, see the “Weekend with the Wright Brothers” and “Weekend on Pony Island” chapters.