Please understand that I’m not suggesting you spend the weekend at your local bank. The Wachovia I’m talking about is the original Wachovia, the one the Moravian settlers called der Wachau, after the European ancestral estate of count Nicolaus Ludwig von Zinzendorf. You, of course, know this town as Winston-Salem.
From its humble beginnings as the village of Salem in 1766, Winston-Salem has grown up to be a vibrant and interesting city. It has a rich history, both from its European beginnings and from its status as one of North Carolina’s major tobacco towns. It also has superb museums; you could make a very full weekend by visiting Reynolda House Museum of American Art, the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts (MESDA), the Southeastern Center for Contemporary Art (SECCA), and the Diggs Art Gallery. And because Winston-Salem is home to the North Carolina School of the Arts, it has a lively culture that supports the performing arts. Add to that the flavor of Wake Forest University’s Demon Deacons and you’ve got yourself a town bursting with activity and life.
To stay downtown, book lodging at the Henry F. Shaffner House (800-952-2256; www.shaffnerhouse.com). If you’d like to stay in Old Salem, book a room at the Augustus T. Zevely Inn (800-928-9299; www.winston-salem-inn.com). The inn dates to 1844 and is located in the heart of the village. To stay close to the golf at Tanglewood Park, try Tanglewood Manor (336-778-6370; www.tanglewoodpark.org).
Where to Eat
If you’re spending the day in Old Salem, the Salem Tavern, which dates to 1816, is a convenient place to find a tasty lunch or dinner. Reservations are probably a good idea, especially for dinner; call 336-748-8585. Located in Reynolda Village, the original Village Tavern serves great sandwiches, salads, burgers, and pizzas, as well as more elaborate fare like steaks and seafood. Locals say that the grilled mountain trout is the best around. Not to be confused with the Zevely Inn, the Zevely House (336-725-6666), located downtown in a restored mansion, is known for its fine dining. If your plans include a performance by students at the North Carolina School of the Arts, consider having dinner at Bistro 420, which is across the street from the Stevens Center, a performance auditorium used by the school.
Ways to While Away the Day
Antiques
If you’re in the mood for antiques, visit Marketplace Antique Mall at 2105 Peters Creek Parkway. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 9 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 6 P.M. Call 336-725-5829.
Architecture
An English village tucked into Winston-Salem? Why, yes! Only the thatched roofs seem to be missing at Reynolda Village. Even if you go to enjoy the quaintness of the village, you’re sure to find something else that strikes your fancy. A collection of the former support buildings for Reynolda House, the village houses specialty shops today. You’ll find neat shops selling table linens, bicycles, custom fishing rods, and antiques; they’re tucked into former cattle sheds, dairy barns, carriage houses, and the like. The village is located on Reynolda Road.
Art
Reynolda House Museum of American Art, located in the former home of tobacco baron Richard Joshua Reynolds, contains an outstanding collection of American art, including works by Albert Bierstadt, Thomas Cole, and Georgia O’Keeffe, among others. The exceptional collection of vintage clothing will make you long for French shoes. This is one of the most outstanding estate homes in the state. Not nearly as ostentatious as the mansions of Newport, Rhode Island, Reynolda House shows that there’s a big difference between simply having money and having good taste. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. and Sunday from 1:30 P.M. to 4:30 P.M. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 888-663-1149 or 336-725-5325 or visit www.reynoldahouse.org.
Another impressive house, the James G. Hanes Estate, is home to the Southeastern Center for Contemporary Art. The house and grounds are striking and the art inside intriguing. Located at 750 Marguerite Drive (off Reynolda Road), the center is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Sunday from 2 P.M. to 5 P.M. It is closed major holidays. For more information, call 336-725-1904 or visit www.secca.org.
Located in the lower level of the O’Kelly Library at Winston-Salem State University, Diggs Gallery houses original works by North Carolina black artists and hosts several traveling exhibitions each year. Of particular interest are the John Biggers murals Ascension and Origins and the sculpture garden. The gallery is open Monday through Friday from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. For more information, call 336-750-2458 or visit www.wssu.edu/diggs/home.asp.
To see what local contemporary artisans are up to, stroll along Sixth and Trade Streets downtown in the arts district. The district, home to the Piedmont Craftsmen Gallery, also contains the individual shops and studios of local potters, sculptors, metalworkers, painters, and photographers.
Gardens
Want to stop and smell the roses? Then visit Tanglewood Park in neighboring Clemmons, home to the Manor House Rose Garden, an arboretum, and a fragrance garden. Here, you’ll find over 800 rosebushes, 400 of which are American Rose Society winners.
Another wonderful choice is Reynolda Gardens at Reynolda House (see page 152), open daily during daylight hours.
Golf
In Winston-Salem, try Heather Hills Golf Course (336-788-5785), Hillcrest Golf Club (336-765-5269), Meadowlands Golf Course (336-769-1011), Olde Homeplace Golf Club (336-769-1076), or Reynolds Park Golf Course (336-650-7660). Also open to weekenders are Long Creek Golf Course (336-924-5226) in Bethania; the Tanglewood Park Championship and Reynolds Courses (336-778-6320) and Salem Glen Country Club (336-712-1010) in Clemmons; and Grandview Golf Club (336-924-8229) in Pfafftown.
Tidbits
In 1951, Forsyth County received a wonderful gift when the Reynolds family willed the Tanglewood property for use as a public park. And what a park it is! Rich in history—the land was claimed by Sir Walter Raleigh for Queen Elizabeth on March 25, 1584—and natural beauty, Tanglewood is now home to a championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones.
Winston-Salem State University was the first African-American institution in the nation to grant degrees for teaching in the elementary grades.
Heritage
Winston-Salem’s number-one attraction is Old Salem, the authentic revitalization of the quiet Moravian village founded in 1766. When you visit, be sure to compare the skyline of this National Historic District with that of modern-day Winston-Salem just down Main Street. At Old Salem, you can either walk around and enjoy the ambiance or purchase admission to eight of the restored structures. If you go inside, you’ll be able to see artisans in period dress at work. One enormously popular spot is the Winkler Bakery, home to the famous Moravian cookies and breads. Does everybody purchase goodies here? It seems so. Tours are offered daily except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter. For more information, call 888-653-7253 or visit www.oldsalem.org.
Visit Bethabara Park to see how Winston-Salem got its start. Bethabara was actually the first Moravian settlement in the area, though Salem attained greater prominence. Many fine stone ruins remain from the structures built by the Moravians who settled here in 1753. The Gemeinhaus, a combination sanctuary, school, and living quarters, is particularly interesting. You’ll also see reconstructed palisades and community and medicinal herb gardens. The meticulous Moravians designated one of their members to serve as a diarist, so the gardens are very much like they were in the 1700s. Located off University Parkway, the park is open Monday through Friday from 9:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. and Saturday and Sunday from 1:30 P.M. to 4:30 P.M. An admission fee is charged to tour the buildings, but you can stroll the property for free. For more information, call 336-924-8191 or visit www.bethabarapark.org.
Kid Stuff
Enthrall the kids with science: SciWorks, located at 400 West Hanes Mill Road, lets little ones travel through the solar system, roam nature trails, and encounter dinosaurs. An admission fee is charged. SciWorks is open Monday through Friday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. and Saturday from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M. For more information, call 336-767-6730 or visit www.sciworks.org.
Museums
The Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts in Old Salem is a must-see for anyone who enjoys studying handcrafted furniture, textiles, and ceramics. You’ll see rare items like puzzle jugs, firebacks, and artfully decorated long rifles, in addition to 30 authentic rooms that show decorative details from 1690 to 1820. The museum is open daily expect Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 336-721-7300 or visit www.mesda.org. Also at Old Salem are the Children’s Museum and the recently opened Toy Museum. The Children’s Museum provides young ones the opportunity to see how life used to be. The Toy Museum is purported to be the largest such facility in the country.
Wake Forest University is home to the Museum of Anthropology, which focuses on world cultures and displays items you’re unlikely to see anywhere else: high-top moccasins, grass socks, Zulu beer strainers, wrist knives, and an interesting collection of Mayan woven goods, to name a few. The museum is located on the campus off University Parkway; follow the signs for the Department of Anthropology. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.; hours vary during August. For more information, call 336-758-5282 or visit www.wfu.edu/MOA/.
Outdoors
Biking
Two cycling enthusiasts, Judi Lawson Wallace and Ken Putnam, Jr., have identified a series of road-cycling and mountain-biking routes in their book, Great Bike Rides In and Around Winston-Salem. If you like to pedal and are looking for new terrain, this book holds the key. It identifies 40-plus road routes, as well as eight routes suitable for children. It also lists the major mountain-biking parks.
If you need a dose of the out-of-doors, visit Tanglewood Park, where you can enjoy a picnic; rent a horse, a canoe, a rowboat, or a paddleboat; and see two magnificent trees. (Really. One tree is the state-champion black walnut and the other a white oak thought to be older than the United States Constitution. Both are near the manor house.) Located off I-40 west of Winston-Salem in Clemmons, the park is open daily from 7 A.M. to sunset. For more information, call 336-778-6300.
Performing Arts
If you like theater and music, then consider an evening at a performance offered by the North Carolina School of the Arts. The students here study dance, drama, design and production, music, and filmmaking, so they’re on the cutting edge of what’s new and innovative. I hear that playwright Neil Simon occasionally comes here to fine-tune his work. For more information, call 336-721-1945 or visit www.ncarts.edu.
Winston-Salem hosts the National Black Theatre Festival, which draws talent like Sidney Poitier, Della Reese, and Harry Belafonte. Call 336-723-2266 or visit www.NBTF.org.
Sports
The Demon Deacons of Wake Forest University field some tough, tough athletic teams. For schedule information, call 888-758-3322 or visit www.wakeforestsports.ocsn.com or www.wfu.edu.
The Winston-Salem Warthogs, a farm team for the Chicago White Sox, play from April until September. Even if you don’t like baseball, you’ll love the team’s logo. It gets my vote for the best in the state. Call 336-759-2233 or visit www.warthogs.com.
Other Points of Interest
Just west of Winston-Salem in Lewisville is Westbend Vineyards. First planted in 1972, the vineyards contain French vinifera grapes. The winery is open for tours and tastings Tuesday through Saturday from 11 A.M. to 6 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 6 P.M. You’ll find it on Williams Road just off Shallowford Road; take Exit 246 off U.S. 421. Call 336-945-5032, 877-901-5032, or visit www.westbendvineyards.com.
Festivals/Events
| April | The Junior League Rummage Sale, held at Lawrence Joel Veterans Memorial Coliseum, is going strong after 45 years. |
| The Cherry Blossom Festival is held at Reynolda Village. | |
| May | Old-Time Fiddler’s and Bluegrass Convention, Mocksville |
| June-July | Music at Sunset is performed by the Winston-Salem Piedmont Triad Symphony on Sunday afternoons in Tanglewood Park. |
| September | The North Carolina Chili Championship and the Vantage Championship Golf Tournament are held at Tanglewood Park. |
| Folkfest is celebrated at Reynolda House. | |
| November | The Piedmont Crafts Fair is held at the Benton Convention Center. |
| November-January | The Tanglewood Festival of Lights claims to be the Southeast’s largest holiday light show; after seeing it, I believe it’s true. |
| December | Salem Christmas includes Moravian holiday celebrations, candlelight tours, and yuletide celebrations at MESDA. |
For information, contact the Winston-Salem Convention and Visitors Bureau by calling 866-728-4200 or 336-728-4200 or by visiting www.visitwinstonsalem.com.