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Weekend in

Cheerwine Country

Salisbury

If all you know about Salisbury is the franchise development you see when you zoom by on I-85, then you’re missing a delightful town. Steeped in history and fiercely proud of it, Salisbury has a downtown that is alive and striking. An architecture lover could probably spend an entire day observing the storefronts and churches—and then spend another day just off Innes Street admiring the gorgeous, well-preserved homes. Depending on where you look, you’ll see cityscapes that remind you of Georgetown or Williamsburg. Block for block, Salisbury has as outstanding a historic district as any town in the state.

Lest you think, however, that Salisbury is only for those who groove on history and architecture, you should know that the town is home to something every sports enthusiast absolutely must visit: the National Sportscasters and Sportswriters Hall of Fame. And if you want to sculpt a family getaway weekend, chug over to the North Carolina Transportation Museum in nearby Spencer. The kids will be entertained for hours.

There’s something else the family might enjoy, something that native North Carolinians, particularly those of us from the western Piedmont, crave: a Cheerwine! Cheerwine is a burgundy-colored, brilliant, tongue-tickling cherry cola drink that some call “the nectar of the Tar Heel State.” (Can you tell I agree?) Until the late 1970s, it was sold only within a two-hour driving radius of Salisbury. Though lore says that Cheerwine and pineapple juice is the party beverage of Salisbury, I consume mine mixed with that other wonderful North Carolina soft drink, Sundrop.

So get off the interstate, soak in the ambiance of downtown Salisbury, see the trains, and try a Cheerwine. You’ll wonder what took you so long!

Where to Stay

The Rowan Oak House Bed and Breakfast (800-786-0437; www.rowanoakbb.com) and the Turn of the Century Victorian Bed and Breakfast (800-250-5349; www.turnofthecenturybb.com) are in the heart of Salisbury’s main historic district. For a family camping weekend in one of the best county parks in the state, try Dan Nicholas Park (704-636-2089), which has 55 trailer sites and 22 tent sites, all of them shaded.

Where to Eat

If you’re walking about downtown Salisbury and are hungry for lunch, visit the Sweet Meadow Café. If you want an upscale dinner, try La Cava, Salisbury’s most elegant restaurant. Senator Elizabeth Dole dines here when she’s in town, or so the locals say. For an outstanding beef dinner in a rustic setting, try Ivan’s (704-637-2000). If you’re in Spencer and enjoy Italian fare, step inside La Dolce Vita on Main Street. Casual observation suggests that Rowan County has more barbecue restaurants than any other North Carolina county. (Sorry about that Davidson County.) They’re everywhere, and the ones I’ve visited have some great ‘cue!

Ways to While Away the Day

Antiques

Antiques abound in Salisbury! Wander over to Kerr Street to the Salisbury Emporium, where 75-plus dealers are ready to help you find something special for your home. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. For more information, call 704-642-0039.

Architecture

The local visitor center provides audio tapes (for free!) to enhance your walk through Salisbury’s main historic district. Allow about an hour to ooh and aah over the homes and buildings. The Utz-Chambers House (704-633-5946) and the Josephus Hall House (704-636-0103) are open for public tours Thursday through Sunday.

Arts

Salisbury’s first waterworks building is home to the Waterworks Visual Arts Center, a gallery of regional and national exhibitions. Located at the corner of Kerr and Water Streets, it’s open Monday through Friday from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M., Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M., and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 4 P.M. For more information, call 704-636-1882.

Cheerwine

If you want to see where culinary history was made, head to the 1913 Cheerwine/Carolina Beverage Corporation Building, located near the railroad depot. If you’re really adventurous, visit www.cheerwine.com to see how to cook with this North Carolina product. You, too, can make a “Cheerwine Devil’s Food Cake”!

Tidbits

Rowan County originally extended all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Early maps show it beginning west of Chatham County and going to wherever the land ended.

Believe it or not, Salisbury was once known as the wettest and wildest town in the state. In the late 1800s, the town had 12 saloons, half a dozen distilleries, and two wholesale whiskey warehouses.

A cemetery in western Rowan County contains an interesting resident. A teacher at Third Creek Presbyterian Church near Cleveland, Peter Stuart Ney was believed to be Marshal Michael Ney, one of Napoleon’s generals. Though he stood before a firing squad after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo, Ney was helped by soldiers still loyal to him, who apparently shot over his head and helped him escape to America. When asked at his death if he were really Marshal Ney, Peter Stuart Ney confirmed that he was.

Pink granite from Granite Quarry was used to make Elvis’s headstone.

Civil War History

From 1861 to 1865, Salisbury was home to a 16-acre Confederate prison. Burned when Union general George Stoneman conducted his raid through central North Carolina, the prison does not exist today. However, Civil War buffs can enjoy walking the Searching for the Confederacy Tour that the Rowan County Convention and Visitors Bureau has pulled together. The route passes other points of interest, including the home of John Willis Ellis, North Carolina’s secession governor; the Josephus Hall House, which Stoneman used for his headquarters; and the Garrison House, a two-story log house that is the only surviving structure from the prison.

Salisbury National Cemetery is the final resting place of 11,700 Union soldiers who died in the town’s overcrowded Confederate prison. In fact, veterans of all of America’s wars are buried here. The cemetery is located on Long Street. Call 704-636-2661.

Golf

You’ll find lots of courses in this area, among them Corbin Hills Golf Course (704-636-0672), Crescent Golf Club (704-647-0025; www.crescentgolfclub.com), Foxwood Golf Club (704-637-2528), McCanless Golf Course (704-637-1235), and Rolling Hills Golf Club (704-633-8125). In China Grove, try Warrior Golf Club (877-999-8337; www.warriorgolf.com).

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Kid Stuff

For those who’d like to spend the day outside, Dan Nicholas Park in Salisbury offers a carousel, miniature golf, paddleboats, a petting zoo, and miniature train rides.

Museums

The North Carolina Transportation Museum in Spencer qualifies as one of the best museums in the state. It certainly is the largest! At their busiest, the Spencer Shops employed between 2,500 and 3,000 people on a 57-acre compound. Without doubt, anyone who’s ever felt the romance of railroad travel will find the Robert Julian Roundhouse fascinating. The classic cars contained in the Bumper-to-Bumper exhibit aren’t bad either!The museum is open state hours. For more information, call 877-628-6386 or visit www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/hs/spencer/spencer.htm.

It’s not surprising that Salisbury, a town that’s fierce about protecting its historical architecture, would turn an old building into a museum. The former Rowan County Courthouse is now home to the Rowan Museum. Located on Main Street, it’s open Thursday through Sunday from 1 P.M. to 4 P.M. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 704-633-5946.

Performing Arts

The Piedmont Players offer theatrical productions in the 1905 Meroney Theater in Salisbury. The Salisbury-Rowan Symphony has provided relaxing entertainment for 30 years. If neither of these groups is performing, then perhaps you can find something at nearby Catawba College, Livingstone College, or Rowan-Cabarrus Community College. A calendar of events is available at the Salisbury Visitor Information Center; you can review the calendar by visiting www.visitsalisburync.com.

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Scenic Drive

The Mill Bridge Scenic Byway travels through the rolling farmland of western Rowan County, passing Kerr Mill at Sloan Park. To drive the byway, begin west of Rowan County on N.C. 150 and turn right on S.R. 1526. After turning left on S.R. 1737, look for Thyatira Church, established in 1753. Turn right on N.C. 150 near Sloan Park.

Sports

Full of film clips narrated by the greatest voices in sports announcing, the National Sportscasters and Sportswriters Hall of Fame contains footage that will mesmerize you all over again. During my visit, I watched the 1983 North Carolina State University Wolfpack—“Phi Packa Attacka,” we called them in those days—nip the “Phi Slamma Jamma” Cougars of the University of Houston. Once again, Lorenzo Charles’s desperation basket thrilled me. If you like sports, this is a must-do. Located at 322 East Innes Street in Salisbury, it’s open Wednesday through Sunday from 1 P.M. to 4 P.M. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 704-636-3629.

Other Points of Interest

The Old Stone House, located outside Granite Quarry, is the oldest structure in Rowan County. Built in 1766, it is a prime example of German stone masonry. Note the gun ports on either side of the chimneys; the house was once at the edge of the wilderness. It is open Saturday and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 4 P.M. For more information, call 704-633-5946.

Gold Hill, located east of Salisbury on U.S. 52, was once the richest mining town east of the Mississippi. Today, the village is being restored. You can visit the Rock Jail, Mauney’s 1840 Store and Museum, and the E. H. Montgomery Store.

Festivals/Events

May Gold Hill Bluegrass Festival
June Spencer Rail Days
October Historic Homes Tour, Salisbury
Spencer Steamfest
November Rowan County Historical Museum Antiques Show, Salisbury
December “Ringing in the New Year” is celebrated at the Old Presbyterian Bell Tower in Salisbury.

More Resources

For information, contact the Rowan County Convention and Visitors Bureau by calling 800-332-2343 or 704-638-3100 or by visiting www.visitsalisburync.com.