It’s easy to believe that during the Gilded Age, the traveling public called Asheville the Paris of the South. With all of the art and culture—not to mention the stunning downtown architecture and the pleasant weather—Asheville is one of North Carolina’s most appealing cities. Vigor and youthfulness and joie de vivre burst from just about every street corner downtown. Just venture to Pack Square or the courthouse green on any summer Saturday night and watch the locals and the tourists, whether they’re dining in one of the many restaurants or listening to music alfresco. It’s inspiring to see people enjoying a city so much.
If you’ve never been to Asheville—what on earth are you waiting for?—you may find navigating the downtown streets challenging. If that’s the case, park the car and walk the 30-station, 1.7-mile Asheville Urban Trail, which passes some of the city’s most wonderful buildings, like the Art Deco S&W Building and the Basilica of St. Lawrence, both of which are difficult to see if you’re driving. You’ll also traverse some of the town’s best shopping areas. Even if you’re familiar with Asheville, this walk will reveal architecture and history you probably aren’t aware of.
If you’re like me, you’ll find that a trip to Asheville presents a thorny problem: one weekend does not provide enough time to see it all. My solution? I come here as often as I can.
Where to Stay
Asheville must surely have more bed-and-breakfasts than any other city in North Carolina. For complete information, contact the Asheville Convention and Visitors Bureau. Some of the inns I’ve enjoyed include the Old Reynolds Mansion (800-709-0496; www.oldreynoldsmansion.com), the Flint Street Inns (800-234-8172; www.flintstreetinns.com), and the 1900 Inn on Montford (800-254-9569; www.innonmontford.com).
Where to Eat
To find the restaurants, go downtown to Pack Square and just look around. For an upscale meal, consider Bistro B, Café on the Square, or Magnolia’s, tucked a couple of blocks away on Walnut Street. For something more casual, visit the Blue Moon Bakery and Café, the Mellow Mushroom, rio burrito, or Salsa. For a java fix, duck into Bean Streets.
Ways to While Away the Day
Antiques
Downtown Asheville has at least eight antiques shops, most of them on or near Lexington Avenue. If you venture over toward Biltmore House, you might want to visit the Antique Tobacco Barn on N.C. 81, where over 80 dealers are waiting to show you their wares. Hours are seasonal; call 828-252-7291.
Art
Lots of galleries punctuate the downtown corridor; all you have to do is start walking. One of my favorites is Steebo’s. Stefan Bonitz recycles “found” objects into art. If you’ve ever wondered how well brake drums would serve as plant stands, or if radiator fan blades might make interesting metallic flowers, pay a visit here. His side garden—with stingrays made from acetylene tanks—is not to be missed. Blue Spiral is another favorite among residents and visitors alike, especially if you like contemporary art. If your taste leans more to the traditional, visit the Folk Art Center of the Southern Highland Craft Guild, located on U.S. 70 East near the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Gardens
If you love gardens, a visit to the North Carolina Arboretum is like Christmas morning, only better. Established in 1986, the arboretum opened its doors in 1990 and its gardens in 1996. Its mission is to cultivate connections between people and plants through its 426 acres of unique gardens, its three miles of easy to moderate trails, its greenhouse, and its many educational opportunities. Be prepared for some tough choices. Do you ease down the Nature Garden Loop Trail? Stride over to the Grand Garden Promenade? Rest in the Outdoor Garden Amphitheatre and enjoy the mountain vista? Linger in the Stream Garden? Visit the Quilt Garden? And what about the National Native Azalea Repository? Can’t miss that! Decisions, decisions. Located 10 miles southwest of Asheville at the intersection of N.C. 191 and the Blue Ridge Parkway, the arboretum is open daily except Christmas from 8 A.M. to 9 P.M. For more information, call 828-665-2492 or visit www.ncarboretum.org.
Another good bet is the Botanical Gardens at Asheville, 10 acres of plants native to the southern Appalachians. Peak wildflower season is April to mid-May. The gardens are located adjacent to the University of North Carolina-Asheville at 151 W. T. Weaver Boulevard, off Broadway. They’re open from dawn to dusk. No pets are allowed. For more information, call 828-252-5190 or visit www.ashevillebotanicalgardens.org.
Golf
So many opportunities are available that your best bet is to contact the Asheville Convention and Visitors Bureau to inquire about courses and golf packages. Given the popularity of golf in the area, most courses require advance bookings.
Heritage
North of Asheville is the Zebulon B. Vance Birthplace State Historic Site. The restored farm is quite interesting, not just because it’s a fine example of how mountain people survived in a difficult environment, but because one of North Carolina’s most colorful and popular governors hailed from here. Located near Weaverville on Reems Creek Road off U.S. 25 North, the birthplace is open state hours. For more information, call 828-645-6706 or visit www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/hs/vance/vance.htm.
Tidbits
Zebulon B. Vance, North Carolina’s Civil War governor, was elected to his first public office at age 24. He served in the North Carolina House of Commons and the United States House of Representatives and was elected governor three times. Known as a powerful speaker, Vance defended Tom Dula (see the “Weekend in the Foothills” chapter) and was serving his fourth term as a United States senator when he died.
If you’ve read the popular girls’ book Christy, then be sure to drive along Montford Avenue or stay in a bed-and-breakfast there. You may recall that Christy, before going to teach in the coves of the Great Smokies, lived on Montford Avenue. This district is also noteworthy because Zelda Fitzgerald, wife of F. Scott Fitzgerald, was hospitalized at an asylum in the area. She died when the asylum burned.
For lovers of literature, a stop at Thomas Wolfe’s boyhood home is a must. Thomas Wolfe Memorial State Historic Site is open state hours. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 828-253-8304 or visit www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/hs/wolfe/wolfe.htm.
Kid Stuff
The Western North Carolina Nature Center is home to lots of animals native to western North Carolina. And yes, there are wolves! It’s located at 75 Gashes Creek Road. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 828-298-5600 or visit www.wncnaturecenter.org.
Museums
If you’re in downtown Asheville, the museums at Pack Square may beckon you. Here, you’ll find the Asheville Art Museum, the Colburn Gem and Mineral Museum, and Health Adventure. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 828-257-4500 or visit www.packplace.org.
It’s hard to say exactly what the Biltmore Estate is. Is it a residential museum, a great backdrop for gardens and movies, a winery, a shopping treasure trove, or what? Actually, it’s all of that and more. You could easily spend an entire day here and barely scratch the surface of George Washington Vanderbilt’s magnificent estate. If you’ve never been, go. After touring the rooms, keep in mind that George Vanderbilt, grandson of Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, received a smaller inheritance than any of his siblings. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 800-624-1575 or visit www.biltmore.com.
It doesn’t matter whether you’re a motorhead or not, the Estes-Winn Antique Car Museum, located next to the Grove Park Inn, has something to delight you. Be sure to check out the 1916 Overland, the grandpappy of the Willys, which itself is the granddaddy of the Jeep Cherokee. Want to see a 1913 Model T Ford, also known as a Tin Lizzie? How about a Model A coupe with a rumble seat? The museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. Donations are accepted on behalf of the American Cancer Society. For more information, call 828-253-7651.
Hiking
For information about the Asheville Urban Trail, visit www.ci.asheville.nc.us/parks/urban.htm.
Sunsets
If you’d like to watch the sunset from a Blue Ridge grandstand, drive to Craggy Gardens, located 18 miles north of Asheville on the Parkway. Here, you can walk a few trails or enjoy a picnic lunch. If there’s a meteor shower, this is the place to go to watch it.
Performing Arts
The Asheville Community Theatre (828-254-1320; www.ashevilletheatre.org) and the Diana Wortham Theater at Pack Place (828-257-4530; www.packplace.org) will keep you busy watching stage productions throughout the year.
Shopping
Can you say mother lode? You’ll find all sorts of dazzling, endearing, amusing, and just plain odd things in Asheville. The town has four main shopping areas: downtown near Pack Square, downtown near Battery Park, Biltmore Village, and the River District. If you like adaptive-use items, visit Asheville Recycles near Pack Square. You might see footstools made out of wooden Dr. Pepper crates, patio chairs constructed out of rebar and flat metal, or chandeliers made from wrought-iron fence-post finials. Need a futon? Step inside Futon Designs to see an incredible array of black walnut, cherry, and ash pieces. Need gold or gemstones? Jewels That Dance will lure you like a snake charmer. Battery Park is an enclave of fascinating shops—and an outdoor climbing wall! The Paul Taylor Custom Sandal Shop sells sandals that last for 30 years. Turtle Creek specializes in Native American art. Beads and Beyond offers beads from China, Ethiopia, Mexico, Bali, Thailand, and Nepal. Future Visions sells Third World art. Kress Emporium is home to booths featuring the works of 80 Appalachian artists. Biltmore Village’s upscale mix includes Vitrum, a shop that specializes in glasswork, including items crafted by John Littleton and Kate Vogel. New Morning Gallery and Bellagio carry a vast array of wearable art. The River District is home to numerous potters, tile artists, and glassblowers. Payne Studio houses dinosaur sculptures.
Remember Crash Davis in the movie Bull Durham? He was traded to the Asheville Tourists at the end of the movie. To go see the Tourists play at McCormick Field from April through August. For information, call 828-258-0428 or visit www.theashevilletourists.com.
Other Points of Interest
Black Mountain, 16 miles east of Asheville on U.S. 70, likes to call itself the “Front Porch of Western North Carolina.” For sure, this little town is something special. Every time I’ve traveled through Black Mountain, the streets have been crowded with people. Whether it’s the charming storefronts, the cafés tucked here and there, or the music halls, you’ll find pleasant diversions here.
If you’re an admirer of Ben Long’s frescoes, visit the Chapel of the Prodigal at Montreat College. It’s open Tuesday through Friday; guided tours are available Saturday and Sunday from 2 P.M. to 4 P.M.
Festivals/Events
More Resources
For information, contact the Asheville Convention and Visitors Bureau by calling 828-258-6101 or visiting www.exploreasheville.com.
To contact the Black Mountain-Swannanoa Chamber of Commerce, call 828-699-2300 or visit www.blackmountain.org.
For other nearby activities, see the “Weekend in the Shadow of Mount Pisgah,” “Weekend in Apple Country,” and “Weekend in the Gaze of Mount Mitchell” chapters.