It was from Mount Pisgah that Moses saw the Promised Land after 40 years of wandering in the desert. Now, I’ve hiked North Carolina’s Mount Pisgah and am here to report that the view is mighty fine indeed. If you don’t mind tackling a steep, rocky trail, you’ll be rewarded with an exquisite view.
Two towns fall under the shadow of Mount Pisgah: Waynesville and Maggie Valley.
Waynesville is especially appealing. Why? The walkable nature of the town, the benches that stud the sidewalks so people can enjoy the evening air, and the shops that line Main Street combine to make a wonderful mountain town. Maybe I especially like Waynesville because of an incredible marinated chicken kabob I devoured one Fourth of July. Or maybe it’s because it’s home to Open Air Curbside Market, the best newsstand in the state. Or maybe it’s because the town is golf’s best-kept secret.
On the other hand, Maggie Valley, a lively ribbon of shops, restaurants, and attractions wedged into the Smokies along U.S. 19, hops with crowds going to Cataloochee Ski Area. This town has come a long way since 1904, when John Sidney Setzer asked for permission to build a post office here and was told he couldn’t, at least not until a town was established! However, the United States Post Office did invite Setzer to submit three names for the proposed town. He sent the names of his three daughters, and the post office ultimately chose Maggie. Though Maggie died in the late 1970s, the town still honors her.
Where to Stay
The Herren House Bed and Breakfast (800-284-1932 or 828-452-7897; www.herrenhouse.com), an exceptional bed-and-breakfast, is located within easy walking distance of downtown Waynesville. Cataloochee Ranch (800-868-1401 or 828-926-1401; www.cataloochee-ranch.com), a dude-ranch resort, will put you near the top of the Smokies. If you want to stay within walking distance of Mount Pisgah, stay at the aptly named Pisgah Inn (828-235-8228; www.pisgahinn.com).
Where to Eat
You may work up an appetite here, but you won’t go hungry. Whitman’s Bakery in Waynesville has been in business since 1945. You can get a tasty lunch here, as well as baked goodies to take away. Visit Stefano’s Mediterranean Grill in downtown Waynesville for dinner. If all you want is dessert—with a helping of antiques and live music—step into Timothy’s Dessert Café, also in downtown Waynesville. Up on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Pisgah Inn serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and exceptional views of the mountains. I’ve found that a slice of blackberry pie (in the summer) or a bowl of soup (on brisk days) really revs me up for the hard work of driving the parkway. Maggie Valley is full of eateries. One of the best is Snappy’s, located in the Eagle Shopping Plaza. Here, you’ll find tasty pasta without a lot of formality.
Ways to While Away the Day
Antiques
If the shops and galleries along North Main Street in Waynesville (see “Crafts” section) fail to hold your interest, then perhaps browsing the growing antiques alley outside town along U.S. 74 will. The granddaddy of them all is the antiques mall housed in the former warehouse of Barber Orchard. It’s open daily from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M.
Crafts
If you collect fine mountain crafts, then Waynesville is your bliss. At last count, eight galleries made their home on North Main Street. They display items such as hand-painted pottery, sculpture, stained glass, environmental and Native American art, and mountain watercolors. You can also find handcrafted solid-oak furniture, garden accessories, dolls, English and French porcelain, and silver. If you’re not interested in something to decorate your home or garden, then you can while away an afternoon looking in the many clothing boutiques for something to decorate yourself.
Gem Mining
The Old Pressley Mine claims to be the birthplace of the world’s largest blue star sapphires. In fact, the “Star of the Carolinas,” a 1,445-carat beauty, is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records. Could one of these sapphires be calling your name? Located in Canton, the mine is open daily from 9 A.M. to 6 P.M. For more information, call 828-648-6320, 877-903-4754, or visit www.oldpressleymine.com.
Golf
Maggie Valley Resort and Country Club (828-926-1616), Lake Junaluska Golf Course (828-456-5777), Iron Tree Golf Course (828-627-1933) in Clyde, Laurel Ridge Country Club (828-456-3200) in Waynesville, and Waynesville Country Club (828-456-3551) are open to weekend golfers.
Horses and Llamas
Cataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley can help you see the Smokies the old-fashioned way: on horseback. Call 800-868-1401 or visit www.cataloochee-ranch.com.
Ever walked with a llama? If you haven’t but want to, contact Winddancers Llama Treks in Clyde. This company offers lunch and dinner treks. For more information, call 877-627-3330 or visit www.winddancersnc.com.
A place that may be hard to pass up is Soco Gardens Zoo in Maggie Valley. What will you do first, hurry to the Reptile House or look for the bears? Hard decision, that. It’s open May through October. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 828-926-1746 or visit www.animalpark.org/socozoo/.
Museums
What a lucky day it was when Dale Walksler brought his classic American motorcycles to Maggie Valley!Wheels Through Time, the museum that grew out of Walksler’s collection, is jaw-dropping good. Included among the 200-plus bikes is a one-of-a-kind 1911 mail-order Elk, a 1917 Harley once owned by Steve McQueen, and Evel Knievel’s 1970 jump bike. This museum is nothing but astounding. It’s worth a visit even if you don’t like motorcycles. Wheels Through Time is open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. An admission fee is charged. For more information, call 828-926-6266 or visit www.wheelsthroughtime.com.
The Museum of North Carolina Handcrafts, located on South Main Street in Waynesville, houses an interesting collection of items. Days and hours of operation vary widely, so call beforehand; the number is 828-452-1551.
Tidbits
Originally called Mount Prospect, Waynesville was renamed in 1811 for Revolutionary War general “Mad Anthony” Wayne. The new name was suggested by Colonel Robert Love, who gave the land for the courthouse and other public buildings in the new county seat. Love had fought in the war and was a great admirer of Wayne, known for his quick temper and bravery.
The name Cataloochee comes from the Cherokee word gadalutsi, which means “fringe standing erect.” The reference is to trees that grow on the crests of mountain ridges.
Outdoors
Biking
For a moderately difficult mountain-bike ride, try pedaling the Ivestor Gap Trail. Though rocky, the trail gains only about 500 feet over eight miles. To find it, turn onto F.R. 816 near Milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Follow the gravel road until it stops near a gate. The trail departs to the right. Along the way, it intersects footpaths; two miles in, it touches Shining Rock Wilderness Area. Do not enter the wilderness area! Instead, turn sharply to the right onto the Graveyard Ridge Trail. Look for a waterfall about three miles in. You’ll know you’ve reached the end when you arrive at a deep washout. Turn around and retrace your path.
Hiking
If you crave long-distance views, two parkway trails will give you all your eyes desire. The first leads to the summit of Waterrock Knob, located at Milepost 451. This short but steep trail attains the highest elevation on the parkway, and the views simply cannot be beaten. The more strenuous 2.5-mile Mount Pisgah Trail begins at Milepost 407 at the lower end of the parking lot of the Mount Pisgah Inn and climbs (rather arduously toward the end) to an observation platform. If your legs balk at the exertion, take a break at one of the benches along the way. You’ll also find excellent hiking off the parkway. If you’d like to look for elk, consider the Cataloochee section of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In 2001, elk were reintroduced to the park. It’s possible to see them in Cataloochee Valley early in the morning or near dusk. From Exit 20 off I-40, drive about 10 miles along Cove Creek Road. Several trails depart from this area, but your best bet is probably the Little Cataloochee Trail. One terminus is on Old N.C. 264; the other is 0.8 mile up Pretty Hollow Gap Trail.
Picnicking
Sunburst Recreation Area, located on N.C. 215 on the drive described on page 297, is a wonderful spot for a picnic. With the Pigeon River roaring nearby, lunch will taste especially good! Take film and catch the beauty of this river for use in mental vacations later.
The Haywood County Arts Repertory offers performances throughout the spring and summer. Call 828-456-6322.
Scenic Drive
The northern half of the 65-mile Forest Heritage Scenic Byway traverses some of western North Carolina’s most beautiful terrain. Depart Waynesville on U.S. 276 South and turn right onto N.C. 215. Along the way, look for Lake Logan and the former logging community of Sunburst. After winding through the stunning Middle Prong Wilderness Area, keep a sharp eye for roadside waterfalls before you reach the Blue Ridge Parkway. Travel north on the parkway and exit onto U.S. 276 North to return to Waynesville.
Skiing
Cataloochee Ski Area has been thrilling skiers for 40-plus years. Snowboarding, tubing, skiing, classes, and clinics are offered. Ten slopes are available, from the 600-foot Rabbit Hill to the 1,000-foot Upper Omigosh and the 1,800-foot Lower Omigosh. For more information, call 800-768-3588 or visit www.cataloochee.com.
Waterfalls
The 2.2-mile hike to Yellowstone Falls on the Graveyard Fields Loop Trail, located at Milepost 418.8 on the parkway, is a reward in itself. If you go on a warm day, you can splash around in the waterfall pool and reward your feet for the work it took to get you there. Note: Do not confuse the Graveyard Fields Loop Trail (the one you want) with the Graveyard Ridge Trail.
Festivals/Events
| May | The Ramp Festival is celebrated at the American Legion Field in Waynesville. A ramp is a wild onion. |
| May-August | Pickin’ in the Park begins at 7 P.M. on Friday evenings at Riverside Park in Canton. |
| June | Downtown Waynesville Studio and Gallery Tour |
| July | Waynesville FolkMoot USA |
| Mountaineer Antique Auto Show, Maggie Valley | |
| Maggie Valley Arts and Crafts Show | |
| August | The Smoky Mountain Folk Festival has been held in Lake Junaluska for 30-plus years running. |
| Maggie Valley Jazz Festival | |
| October | Church Street Art and Craft Show, Waynesville |
| The Haywood County Apple Harvest Festival is celebrated on Main Street in Waynesville. | |
| Maggie Valley Quilt Show |
You can reach the Haywood County Tourism Development Authority by calling 800-334-9036 or 828-452-0152 or by visiting www.smokeymountains.net.
You can contact the Maggie Valley Chamber of Commerce by calling 800-624-4431 or 828-926-1686 or by visiting www.maggievalley.org.
For other nearby activities, see “Weekend in Catamount Country.”