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Weekend in

Gemstone Country

Franklin

Rubies and sapphires? Did someone mention rubies and sapphires? You bet, and with good reason: the Cowee Valley, located north of Franklin on N.C. 28, is one of two spots in the world where rubies and sapphires occur in the soil. In the late 1800s, Tiffany’s of New York and the American Prospecting and Mining Company set up commercial operations in Franklin, convinced that the mother lode lay waiting to be discovered somewhere in the valley. Indeed, the world’s largest ruby, on display in the Smithsonian, was found in the area. Knowing this makes you want to go to Franklin and start mining, doesn’t it?

The area has numerous private operators; all you have to do is decide whether you want to pan “native” soil or “enriched” soil. Because I was a skeptic, I chose native soil, and what do you know, I found a perfect little ruby just right for setting.

If hunting rubies and sapphires doesn’t pan out, don’t worry. Franklin is near some great trails and is a terminus of the state’s best waterfall drive. You can also while away the day in grand style by wandering the streets of the downtown.

Where to Stay

The Buttonwood Inn (828-369-8985; www.bbonline.com/nc/buttonwood/) is near the Franklin Golf Course. Franklin Terrace (800-633-2431; www.franklinterrace.com) is within walking distance of downtown.

Where to Eat

You won’t go hungry in Franklin. One place to try is BJ’s Ribs and BBQ. For Italian/Mediterranean fare, visit Lucio’s. For upscale dining downtown, try The Chef and His Wife.

Ways to While Away the Day

Gem Mining

Franklin’s website lists all of the area’s gem mines, and the chamber of commerce can also provide information about mining opportunities (see the “More Resources” section on page 328). If you go mining, go prepared. Take snacks; not all mines offer them. Consider taking a plastic leaf bag to wear as a poncho, so you’ll stay somewhat clean. If the day is sunny, take a hat and/or sunscreen. Wear shoes you won’t care about when you splash muddy water on them. Most mines are open seasonally; some are closed on Sunday. Will you find something? Could be!

Golf

Franklin Golf Course (828-524-2288), Mill Creek Resort and Country Club (800-533-3916), and Parker Meadows Golf Course (828-369-8008) are all open to weekend golfers.

Heritage

Easy to miss because of the development around it, the Nikwasi Indian Mound is a conical, grass-covered mound built during the Mississippian period, which spanned the years from roughly 700 A.D. to 1540 A.D. This was the location of one of the oldest Cherokee settlements in western North Carolina. It was also the place where the Nunnehi, otherwise known as the Immortals, lived. According to Cherokee legend, the Nunnehi once emerged from their mound to assist Cherokee braves in battle. In 1776, General Griffith Rutherford nearly destroyed the mound. In 1947, Macon County residents and schoolchildren raised money to purchase it and save it from obliteration.

Museums

If you’re of Scottish heritage or simply like to claim you are, step inside the Scottish Tartans Museum and Heritage Center at 86 East Main Street. This museum contains the official registry of all publicly known tartans and is the American extension of the Scottish Tartans Society in Edinburgh. An admission fee is charged. The museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. For more information, call 828-524-7472 or visit www.scottishtartans.org.

The “Old Jail”—the former Macon County Jail—houses the Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum. Be sure to go into what was once the solitary-confinement cell, which now displays fluorescent minerals. From May through October, the museum is open Monday to Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 4 P.M.

The J. R. Pendergrass Store, located on Main Street, houses the Macon County Historical Museum. It is open Saturday from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. May through October.

Outdoors

Hiking/Fishing/Mountain Biking

Standing Indian Recreation Area, located west of Franklin, provides many opportunities for hiking, trout fishing, and mountain biking. To find it, drive nine miles west from Franklin on U.S. 64, turn right on Rainbow Springs Road, and go 1.5 miles to F.R. 67, the main road into the recreation area. For a short walk on the Appalachian Trail, park at Rock Gap, the first parking area you’ll see after entering Standing Indian, and hike to Wallace Gap, a mere 0.6 mile north. Winding Stair Gap, also to the north, is a 7.4-mile round-trip hike. The Wasilik Poplar, reportedly the second-largest yellow poplar in the United States, can also be reached from Rock Gap. The tree isn’t very pretty, but the whopping base, eight feet in diameter, is astonishing. The entire walk is 1.4 miles round-trip. If you’d like an easy waterfall walk, continue down F.R. 67 for seven miles. A 1.2-mile round-trip hike leads to Big Laurel Falls. The streams in Standing Indian Recreation Area are open to trout fishing; licenses are available in Franklin. Of course, all of the forest service roads are open to mountain bikers unless otherwise marked.

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Picnicking

The Wayah Crest Picnic Area is close to the Wayah Bald Fire Tower. Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the tower looks like a remnant from a stone castle. Climb it to enjoy a grand view of the southern Appalachians. If the day is clear, you can see north to the Smokies and south to Georgia. Wayah Crest is on S.R. 1310, which is off U.S. 64 west of Franklin. The fire tower is on F.R. 69 across from Wayah Crest. Look for the Wilson Lick Ranger Station before you reach the fire tower. Built in 1916, this was the first ranger station in Nantahala National Forest. Though you cannot go inside the buildings, you’re welcome to walk around and look in the windows. While you’re in the neighborhood, you might want to take the opportunity to hike the Bartram Trail and the Appalachian Trail simultaneously. To do so, head south on the combined trails from the Wayah Bald Fire Tower to Wine Spring Bald; the round-trip distance is 3.8 miles. (See the “Tidbits” sections of this chapter and the “Weekend in the Outdoors Capital” chapter for information about William Bartram.)

Scenic Drive/Waterfalls

One of the best drives in North Carolina departs Franklin on U.S. 64 and travels east to Highlands. Dubbed the Mountain Waters Scenic Byway, it passes three wonderful waterfalls, one of which you can drive behind and another of which you can walk behind. If you decide to take this drive, don’t be in a hurry. This road is exceptionally curvy; in many places, the speed limit is 15 miles per hour.

Tidbits

Standing Indian Recreation Area’s name comes from Cherokee legend. A warrior charged with watching for an evil, winged monster was remiss in his duties, allowing the creature to swoop down and carry away an Indian child. The Great Spirit then sent a tremendous thunderstorm. Lightning from the storm killed the monster, transformed the mountain bald into rubble, and turned the warrior, who was standing nearby, into a stone pillar.

In 1773,William Bartram, America’s first native-born artist-naturalist, set out to wander the southern Appalachians alone, cataloging the plants and animals he saw for an English patron. A poet, Bartram had the ability to write about what he saw in a grand, lyrical style. The record of his journey, Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida …, published in 1792, stands today as one of America’s most significant pieces of nature writing. The North Carolina Bartram Trail Society built and maintains a long-distance hiking trail that approximates as closely as possible Bartram’s wanderings through the state.

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Other Points of Interest

Want to see a bullfrog’s paradise? Then visit Perry’s Water Gardens, located off N.C. 28 north of Franklin. The 13 acres of sunken water gardens are liquid showcases for all sorts of lilies and lotuses and are home to hundreds of bullfrogs and other amphibians. If you’ve ever thought about creating a water garden in your backyard, a visit here will put you over the edge. The gardens are open from 9 A.M. to noon and from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. Monday through Saturday and from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. on Sunday. For more information, call 828-524-3264 or visit www.tcfb.com/perwatg.

Festivals/Events

May Gem and Lapidary Wholesalers’ Gem Show
Summer Weekend evenings are the time for “Pickin’,” a gathering of folks at the courthouse for music, dancing, tailgating, and, on occasion, mule-pulled covered-wagon rides for the kids. Those attending are encouraged to bring a blanket or chair.
September Antique Appraisal Fair
Mid-October The Smoky Mountain Fall Harvest Craft Festival is held in downtown Franklin.

More Resources

You can reach the Franklin Chamber of Commerce by calling 866-372-5546 or 828-524-3161 or by visiting www.franklin-chamber.com.

For area trail information, contact the Wayah Ranger District by calling 828-524-6441.

For other nearby activities, see the “Weekend in Cullasaja Country” and “Weekend in the Outdoors Capital” chapters.