t The vast marble-floored Burgerzaal in the Koninklijk Paleis
g NIEUWE ZIJDE g Contents
The Koninklijk Paleis, still used by the king for official events, was built as the Stadhuis (town hall). Work began in 1648, after the end of the Eighty Years’ War with Spain. Dominating its surroundings, the Classically inspired design by Jacob van Campen (1595–1657) reflects the city’s mood of confidence after the Dutch victory. Civic pride is also shown in the mythological sculptures by Artus Quellien (1609–68), which decorate the pediments, and in the carrillon by François Hemony (1609–67). The full magnificence is best seen in the Burgerzaal (citizens’ hall). Based on the assembly halls of ancient Rome, this 30-m- (95-ft-) high room boasts a marble floor inlaid with a celestial map flanked by the two terrestrial hemispheres.
t The vast marble-floored Burgerzaal in the Koninklijk Paleis
Experience Nieuwe Zijde
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STAY Hotel Brouwer This historic townhouse has been beautifully transformed into an elegant hotel. All rooms have wooden floors and canal views. F3 ⌂ Singel 83∑ hotelbrouwer.nl ¡¡¡ |
Amsterdam’s only specialist archaeological collection is named after Allard Pierson (1831–96), a humanist and scholar. Part of the University of Amsterdam and housed in a grand former bank, this museum is not just a dusty collection of ancient relics. Although not very large, it interestingly links vanished civilizations with the modern world through its collection of thousands of objects from the ancient worlds of Greece, Rome, Egypt and beyond. Look out for a case of rather gruesome Egyptian mummy remains and a film showing the process of mummification, a computer that enables you to write your name in hieroglyphics, a jointed Greek doll from 300 BC and some fine Roman jewellery. The Greek pottery collection has examples of black-figure and red-figure pottery produced in the 5th and 6th centuries BC. The museum also hosts challenging themed exhibitions that shed new light on European history. Located next door to the museum is Amsterdam University’s special collections department.
The polygonal base of the Munttoren (mint tower) was part of the Regulierspoort – the southern gateway in Amsterdam’s medieval city wall. The gate was destroyed by fire in 1618, but the base survived. In the following year, Hendrick de Keyser added the clock tower (closed to the public), capped with a steeple and openwork orb. The carillon was designed by François Hemony in 1699, and rings every 15 minutes. The tower acquired its name in 1673, during the French occupation, when the former city mint was temporarily housed here.
The ground floor is home to a shop that sells delftware and runs a tour giving an insight into how it is made.
t The striking Munttoren sits on the edge of the Singel
Sculpted by John Rädecker (1885–1956) and designed by architect J J P Oud (1890–1963), the 22-m (70-ft) obelisk that looms over Dam Square commemorates Dutch World War II casualties. It was unveiled in 1956, and is fronted by two lions – heraldic symbols of the Netherlands. Embedded in the wall behind are urns containing earth from all the Dutch provinces and the former colonies of Indonesia, the Antilles and Surinam.
Picture Perfect
Spanning the Singel, the Torensluis is the ideal place from which to snap a quintessential Amsterdam image. Capture the canal boats chugging along against a backdrop of high-gabled canal houses. On warm days, take a seat at a café table while you wait for the perfect photo opportunity.
The Torensluis is one of the oldest and widest bridges in Amsterdam. Spanning a width of 42 m (138 ft), it was built on the site of a 17th-century sluice gate and took its name from a tower that stood on the bridge until it was demolished in 1829 (its outline is marked in the pavement). A jail was built in its foundations and if you look carefully you can see the barred windows and arched entrance leading to the old dungeon below the water line.
The statue dominating the bridge is of the 19th-century Dutch author Eduard Douwes Dekker (1820–87), who wrote under the pseudonym Multatuli. His novel Max Havelaar, which was published in 1860, is a polemic against the atrocities committed by Dutch colonialists in the East Indies (modern-day Indonesia). The protagonist, Max Havelaar, battles against the corrupt government of Java. The book was a source of encouragement to reformers, but the Dutch were ultimately evicted from their empire only by force.
t Retaining its former opulence, Magna Plaza has a colonnaded interior
A wall panel on the current building’s façade depicts the site’s original function. In 1748, it was a postkantoor (post office), but it was taken out of service in 1854. The present building was completed in 1899. C H Peters (1847–1932), the architect, was ridiculed for the extravagance of its Neo-Gothic design: critics dubbed the elaborately decorated exterior, with its spindly towers, “post-office Gothic”. It was redeveloped in 1992, though the grand dimensions of Peters’ design were beautifully preserved, and is now an elegant shop-ping mall, set over three floors, called the Magna Plaza.
Experience Nieuwe Zijde
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EAT Visrestaurant Lucius Lobster and crab are specialities at this long-established seafood restaurant. It has an outstanding set menu. E5 ⌂ Spuistraat 247 ∑ lucius.nl ¡¡¡ Kam Yin City Centre Traditional Surinamese roti (pancakes with either a vegetable or meat filling) are a house speciality. G3 ⌂ Warmoesstraat 6 ∑ kamyin.nl ¡¡¡ |
t The circular copper dome of Lutherse Kerk reflected in the canall
The Lutherse Kerk, located in Singel, was designed by Adriaan Dortsman (1625–82) and opened in 1671. It is sometimes known as the Ronde Lutherse Kerk, being the first Dutch Reformed church to feature a circular ground plan and two upper galleries, giving the whole congregation a clear view of the pulpit.
In 1882 a fire started by careless plumbers destroyed everything except the exterior walls. When the interior and entrance were rebuilt in 1883, they were made squarer and more ornate, in keeping with ecclesiastical architecture of that time. A vaulted copper dome replaced the earlier ribbed version.
Falling attendances led to the closure and deconsecration of the church in 1935 and, since 1975, it has acted as the Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel’s conference centre and banqueting chamber. Take time, however, to admire its unique exterior, which stands out among the canal houses.
t Colourful stained-glass windows adorn Sint Nicolaasbasiliek’s impressive dome
Sint Nicolaas, the patron saint of seafarers, is an important icon in Holland. Many churches are named after him, and 5 December (Sint Nicolaas Day) is the Netherlands’ principal day for the giving of presents. In November, the gift-giving saint arrives at the church, accompanied by a helper, Zwarte Piet (Black Pete) in black-face make-up. This tradition in fact dates only from the 19th century, and has been denounced by anti-racism campaigners.
Amsterdam’s biggest Catholic church, the Sint Nicolaasbasiliek was designed by A C Bleys (1842–1912) and completed in 1887. Despite its rather grim and forbid-ding exterior, with its twin towers looming over Zeedijk and the Oosterdok, Sint Nicolaasbasiliek’s completion marked the rehabilitation of the Catholic faith after centuries of clandestine worship during the period when Amsterdam was officially Protestant. The joy and relief of the congregation is reflected in the church’s interior, which is brightened by stained-glass windows set in its imposing dome.
Services are held most days (Tuesday in English), and the church occasionally hosts concerts and recitals featuring the magnificently restored 19th-century Sauer organ.
bridges span the 50 km (31 miles) of canals in Amsterdam.
Built in 1903 to a design by Hendrik Petrus Berlage (1856–1934), this is a striking Modernist building. The former stock exchange’s clean, functional appearance marked a departure from late 19th-century Revivalist architecture. Its curvaceous lines, plain exterior and, above all, Berlage’s imaginative use of red brick as a decorative construction material inspired the later architects of the Amsterdam School. It has an impressive frieze above the entrance showing the evolution of man from Adam to stockbroker. The building is entered through a 40-m (130-ft) clock tower that gives access to three massive halls once used as trading floors.
Inside, the main hall is decorated with ceramic friezes depicting different labourers, including miners and coffee pickers.
Now used as a conference venue, it also hosts a variety of changing exhibitions and concerts, and there is a good bistro. Guided tours of the building allow you to climb the bell tower for extensive views over Amsterdam.
Experience Nieuwe Zijde
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DRINK Wynand Fockink Famous proeflokaal with a huge choice of genevers, and beers. F5 ⌂ Pijlsteeg 31∑ wynand-fockink.nl In de Wildeman This tavern has at least 18 craft beers on tap and 200 more by the bottle. F3 ⌂ Kolksteeg 3¢ Sun ∑ indewildeman.nl Café Hoppe A 17th-century bruin café (local pub) serving limited-edition craft ales, traditional genevers and liqueurs. E6 ⌂ Spui 18 ∑ cafehoppe.com |