t The centre of Delft, which is illustrated below, boasts two iconic churches
The charming town of Delft is known the world over for its blue-and-white pottery, but it is equally famous as the resting place of William of Orange (1533–84) and as the birthplace of artist Jan Vermeer (1632–75).
t The centre of Delft, which is illustrated below, boasts two iconic churches
The origins of Delft date from 1075 and its prosperity was based on weaving and brewing. An explosion at the national arsenal destroyed much of the medieval town in October 1645 and the centre was rebuilt in the late 17th century. The sleepy old town has changed little since then – gabled Gothic and Renaissance houses still line the tree-shaded canals. Activity centres on the market square, bordered by the Stadhuis and Nieuwe Kerk. Visitors can dip into the scores of shops selling antiques and delftware.
Beyond The Centre Must See
t P J H Cuypers’ tower crowns the Nieuwe Kerk, which was built in erratic bursts over many years
Beyond The Centre Must See
In 1581, Philip II declared William of Orange an outlaw and offered a reward of 25,000 crowns for his assassination. Balthasar Gérard masqueraded as a French nobleman and gained William’s trust. On 10 July 1584, Gérard shot William at his home in Delft, which is now known as Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof. Projected silhouettes here re-enact the assassination.
INSIDER TIP
Instead of buying the famed hand-painted porcelain in the expensive boutiques in the centre of the town, head to a local factory. Their shops are often reasonably priced and you can take a tour.
Vermeer’s nickname is “The Sphinx of Delft” because so little is known of his life.
Although a church has existed on this site since the 11th century, the original building has been added to many times. The ornate, but leaning, clock tower was built in the 14th century, and the flamboyant Gothic north transept was added in the early 16th century. The interior is dominated by the carved wooden pulpit with overhanging canopy. The simple stone tablet at the east end of the north aisle marks the burial place of Johannes Vermeer. In the north transept lies Admiral Maarten Tromp (1598–1653), who defeated the English fleet in 1652.
t Aerial view over the square, where the beautiful Oude Kerk takes centre stage
There were once more than 30 delftware factories in this area. De Porceleyne Fles (established in 1653) is the only factory still producing the typical white pottery with delicate blue hand-painted decorations known as delftware. A visit includes a tour of the factory and the opportunity to watch the artists at work.
There is a small museum displaying pieces produced by the factory. Vermeer’s dining room has been faithfully recreated, and the Royal Treasury shows the delftware especially designed for the Dutch royal family.
If you fancy trying your hand at creating your own decorative masterpiece, you can sign up for a workshop of earthenware painting with Delft Blue paint. The lunchroom serves after-noon tea (advance booking required), allowing you the chance to sip tea and nibble petits fours from fine Delft Blue crockery.
Standing in the market square opposite the city hall, the Nieuwe Kerk was built between 1383 and 1510, but much of the original structure was restored following a fire in 1536 and an explosion at the national arsenal in 1654. Work on the church continued for many years, and it was not until 1872 that P J H Cuypers added the statuesque 100-m (320-ft) tower to the Gothic façade. To climb the tower’s 376 steps, buy a token from the church. The climb is quite strenuous but worth it for a great view across Delft and its surroundings. The tower also has a fine series of bells.
The burial vaults of the Dutch royal family are in the crypt of this empty, cavernous church, but the most prominent feature is the mausoleum of William of Orange. The richly decorated tomb was designed by Hendrick de Keyser in 1614 and is carved from black and white marble, with heavy gilded detailing. At its heart is a sculpture of William in his battle dress, and at each corner stand bronze figures representing the Virtues. Close to William is his dog, who died days after him, and at the foot of the tomb is a trumpeting angel – symbol of Fame. Due to ongoing restoration work, parts of the church may be screened off. It is best to check the church’s website before visiting.
Beyond The Centre Must See
t Delftware porcelain clogs
The blue-and-white tin-glazed pottery known as delftware was developed from majolica and introduced to the Netherlands by immigrant Italian potters in the 16th century. Settling around Delft and Haarlem, the potters made wall tiles, adopting Dutch motifs such as animals and flowers as decoration. Trade with the east brought samples of delicate Chinese porcelain to the Netherlands, and the market for coarser Dutch majolica crashed. By 1650, local potters had adopted the Chinese model and designed fine plates, vases and bowls decorated with Dutch landscapes, and biblical and genre scenes.
Little is known about the life of Delft’s most famous and enigmatic artist, Johannes Vermeer (1632–75). In a series of beautiful displays, the Vermeer Centrum uncovers some of the mysteries surrounding this man.
Visitors are introduced to the artist and the city where he lived all his life. Life-size copies of all his paintings are on display, including Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665-67). On the upper floors, some of his painting techniques are explained, particularly his use of perspective, colour and light. Changing exhibitions focus on the symbolic messages in his paintings.
t Model of a galleon, Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof
This tranquil Gothic building, formerly a convent, now houses Delft’s historical museum but is better known as the place where William of Orange was assassinated.
He requisitioned the convent in 1572 for his headquarters during the Dutch Revolt. In 1584, by order of Philip II of Spain, William was shot by Balthasar Gérard. The bullet holes in the main staircase wall can still be seen.
The museum houses a rare collection of antique delftware, displayed along-side tapestries, silverware, medieval sculpture and a series of portraits of the Dutch royal family. The museum café has a terrace in the lovely garden.
Beyond The Centre Must See
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EAT Huszár This lovely waterside brasserie occupies an artfully redesigned industrial space. The menu uses local organic produce. It’s easy to imagine Vermeer sitting right here to paint his famous View of Delft. ⌂ Hooikade 13 ∑ huszar.nl ¡¡¡ |