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I knew this would happen. I was behind schedule!
I lingered weeks longer in the other countries than originally planned, now I had a tough decision to make. Either I could shorten my stay in India, or drop a country from my list, entirely.
It was a hard decision, but I cut the days I spend in India. I would only stay for a week. I was sorry to miss the bigger Indian festivals and celebrations.
It was the end of May, and I was in India. Here, May was one of the hottest months of the year. As soon as I got out the airport I was drenched in sweat, the unrelenting heat baking me like a Tandoori oven. At least it was sunny... my situation was both amusing and annoying. Clearly, I hadn’t planned it very well.
I promised myself to do better next time. I had nothing to gain by regretting.
My trip started in Jaipur, India. Jaipur was a wonderful city, with marvelous architectures, and a rich history. It had many palaces and forts. Many of the historic buildings were pink in color, this was why the city was the “Pink City”.
I went to see one of the most visited landmarks of Jaipur, the Hawa Mahal.
Hawa Mahal, or palace of winds, had nearly a thousand Jharokas (or windows). The palace has a unique outer facade because of the intricate windows. The windows had latticework that made the palace look like a honeycomb. They painted the palace pink and build it with red and pink sandstone.
I stood in front of a Jharoka and felt hidden from the rest of the world. In the past, these Jharokas were the queens’ and princesses’ window to the world. They could see festivities on the street while following the custom of purdah*. The alcove was pleasant, despite being a sweltering summer day. A cool breeze was passing through, and a rainbow of colors streaming through the panels of the stained glass window.
I could see a wonderful view of the street below from one of these windows. I could see the havelis in front that had converted their roofs into quaint cafes. People were enjoying their morning teas under the red umbrellas. There was an archaeological museum within the palace. I spend hours in the museum looking at the paintings and old artifacts depicting Rajasthani culture. They were colorful images of beautiful Rajasthani women, adorned in jewellery, holding a lotus flower or birds, often a parrot or even a miniature peacock.
The other palace that I visited was the Chandra Mahal, that was inside the City Palace complex. Actually, I only saw one part of the palace as the Jaipur royal family were living in the other areas. The palace had been handed down to them through generations. The family must be proud of their ancestral home.
The royal family flag on top of the Chandra Mahal showed whether the royal family (and the Maharaja) were in the palace. I thought it would be exciting to meet someone from the royal family. Today, there was a different flag on the roof, which meant they weren’t inside.
Rajput, European, and Islamic styles influenced the architecture of Chandra palace. They had converted the ground floor of the palace to a museum. The museum had public access, so I got the chance to learn about the palace’s grand history.
I couldn’t leave the city without visiting one of its beautiful forts. I visited Amer Fort, which was a series of hill forts near Jaipur. They constructed the fort with marble and red sandstone. The fort had four levels, overlooking the city from the top of a hill. The fort had intricate designs of various Hindu elements. The gates were in Rajasthani architectural style.
Amer fort had a beautiful area called the Sheesh Mahal. I saw intricate mirror works and colored glasses on the walls and ceilings. I came across the Magic Flower of Amer fort, which was a floral pattern design on the pillars of Sheesh Mahal. The flower was like a hidden object puzzle, where different objects were hiding within a picture. I could see a lotus, a fish’s tail, an elephant’s trunk, and a scorpion in the flower’s design. My tour guide pointed out the other things that I missed.
The views from the fort were magnificent. I could even see a garden of saffron built over Maota lake. The garden was known as Kesar Kyari. During the evening hours, the Amer fort was illuminated beautifully, with an amazing light and music show.
*Purdah: the seclusion of women from the sight of men or strangers.
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Although I visited many beautiful historical places in Jaipur, the hotel I stayed in was itself rich in heritage. I was staying in Jai Mahal Palace; the property dating back to the 18th century. The moment I entered it, I felt transported into the era of Rajas and Rajwades. The hotel had many acres of beautiful Moghul gardens. I saw paintings and artifacts adorned throughout the hotel. The interior was colonial-styled, with marbled corridors and marble floors.
I roamed the gardens in the horse-drawn carriage and felt like royalty. There were fountains, lifelike chess boards, and ornate garden structures, all adding to the grandeur of the palace. I sent a picture of the garden chess board to dad, knowing full well he would want something like that for the garden. I can imagine the gardener being puzzled when dad asks a chessboard made of his topiaries.
Peacocks were roaming freely in the palaces of Jaipur. They were magnificent creatures. They were showing off their brilliant feathers in a dance. Many of the peacocks had green and blue feathers, all except for one. I came across a rare white peacock and it quickly became one of my favorite animals. This peacock was elegant, its feathers in shades of white and silver. The peacock had soaked up the silver of the moon.
It was strangely quiet and empty in the hotel lobby today. My footsteps echoed in the hallways. My heels clicked louder on the mosaic floors. There was only one other person sitting on the lobby sofa, his face hidden behind the morning newspaper.
I took a seat by one sofa and grabbed a croissant from the breakfast table. They set the complimentary breakfast up for guests of the hotel. My dinner had been delicious Rajasthani food from the hotel’s restaurant. In the morning, guests could also enjoy fresh cakes, pastries and breads from the restaurant. There were many beautiful paintings decorating the walls of the lobby, most of them were from a different time period entirely. I was admiring one painting when I heard a charming voice.
“That painting was hung in 1745 and is one of the earliest works in this palace.”
It was the gentleman from earlier, no longer busy in his newspaper. He was dressed impeccably, looking debonair in an elegant black suit. He had a charming air about him. Was he was a historian, or a professor?
“I read about the places I visit, for it adds to the history and romance of the place. Every picture has a story, and every building in Jaipur has a legend.”
He brought out a book about the palaces and historic buildings of Jaipur. He was well read too. Was he was a businessperson on a trip? I felt I had seen him before... but where?
“It is so empty in the hotel today. I wonder if there is a festival going on that I don’t know about?” I asked the well-dressed stranger.
“You aren’t missing out on a festival. Don’t worry. I think they might have gone to the movie shoot taking place today.”
A movie shoot? I wonder what movie it was. I wanted to see it too.
“Do you know what movie it is? Are there any stars coming?” I asked with curiosity.
He chuckled. “Oh, there might be... it is a Bollywood movie. We are obsessed with our movies here, and for good reason. You won’t find such music, colors, enthusiasm or love for movies anywhere else.”
Bollywood was the name of India’s movie industry.
“I would love to be part of a Bollywood movie. I haven’t seen many. The ones I have seen are a lot of fun, with singing and dancing in them.”
“That is an understatement. We break into a song every five minutes in a movie... or we should,” he said, with a charming smile. “Are you interested in acting? Would you like to see an Indian movie shoot up close?”
“Yes, and yes! But I don’t know where to go. It is an enormous place to get lost in.”
“Please, allow me,” said the gentleman, as he extended his arm. I gently placed my hand on his arm.
He guided me to the main courtyard where the movie shoot was taking place. The lobby gentleman was a charming mixture of wit, charisma, and impeccable manners.
As soon as we entered the courtyard, we met with an explosion of color and energy. There were dancers with colorful traditional dresses running from one corner to the next. The choreographer was busy showing another group of dancers the dance moves to rehearse. The hotel guests were peeking from the windows, and were on the stairs and balconies, but none of them were in the courtyard itself.
“Perhaps, guests are not allowed here? We can join the people over there,” I asked, pointing towards the nearest balcony.
“Would you want to join the guests, or meet the film crew?” he replied.
“I rather do the second, but how could I? I don’t know any of the film members or crew.”
“Are you sure about that?” he said with a smile. Just then, the film director got up from his chair and rushed towards the gentleman.
“Sir Khan, we are ready now. Would you like to start the production?”
Khan? I knew that name. He was one of Bollywood’s mega stars.
“You are Khan? As in King Khan of Bollywood?”
“So, I am finally discovered. Yes, I am guilty of being him.”
“It is such an honor to meet you. I am Eleanor James.”
“I assure you the pleasure is all mine, Miss Eleanor. Thank you for being such a pleasant company, and a wonderful listener. Would you like to see how we make our films? Perhaps you wouldn’t mind, since you are an actress yourself. I also have to ask, are you still considering being part of a Bollywood movie?”
“Yes!” I said with enthusiasm. “I would love to be part of one... but, I am afraid I am only here for one more day.”
“Is that so? I was thinking of giving you a few lines in the movie. That doesn’t seem as likely now, based on your availability. Since you are here for one day, would you like to take part in today’s song shoot?”
“I would love to. That would be amazing!”
“That is fantastic! Welcome to Bollywood, Miss Eleanor!”
This was a dream come true. Khan instructed his assistant to help dress me for the song shoot. It was the same bright, beautiful dress that the other dancers were also wearing. The choreographer also taught me a few of the simple moves. Basically, I would twirl in one spot, doing it in sync with the other dancers.
When the director said ‘action’, the dancers swirled into a kaleidoscope of spinning colors. The fast rhythmic music blaring in the background. The drummers beating the drums in collective heartbeats. There were smiles on everyone’s faces as they got caught in Bollywood fever.
The movie shoot ended with the entire cast and crew breaking into a bhangra dance. There was cheering and clapping from the guests in the palace when Khan did some of his signature dance moves.
It was the most fun I had in any movie.
I fell in love with the colors, the sounds, the joy, and fun, that was present in every moment of the movie shoot. Khan’s grace, humility, and heart were inspiring. It was the moment of a lifetime, and a chance encounter that I will never forget.
It was exciting to be an actor, knowing that many people in the world loved films.