saucepan for creamHave you ever felt cheated by shop-bought truffles? I have. Walking into an elegant German konditorei one day, I admired the truffles on display: row upon neat row of balls of various kinds of chocolate with a wealth of filling and coating options. I finally managed to decide which to buy and had a box put together. Eagerly unpacking the box at home, anticipation soon melted to disappointment. The seemingly hand-rolled coating was purely cosmetic and the ‘truffles’ were perfectly pre-moulded spheres with a hole at one end, so that the too soft filling could be piped in and then closed with a dot of melted chocolate. To my mind, a truffle is a bite of delectable ganache with a chocolate, cocoa or nut coating, made all the more attractive by their slightly lop-sided shapes. They are just about the easiest of chocolates to make, so rather than getting sucked in by marketing tricks, try your hand at making your own.
I don’t expect that you would even dream of using less than the best quality ingredients, but just in case you forget, I’m reminding you. I use Belgian or Swiss chocolate and fine Dutch cocoa with a deep colour and an intense but not bitter taste. Couverture (which has a high percentage of cocoa butter) is easier to work with than regular bars, but not absolutely necessary. You will simply need to take a bit more care. You may find that some of the fat separates and lodges at the edge of the bowl. (Couverture is less prone to this.) This can be stirred back into the mixture, but don’t do it too vigorously once the chocolate starts to set, or it will harden very fast. Take into consideration too that the very high percentage dark chocolates may give a slightly firmer result. My suggestion is to use chocolate containing the following percentages of cocoa solids: dark chocolate 55–70%, milk chocolate at least 35% and white chocolate at least 30%. If you deviate greatly from these, you can expect different results. Callebaut 55% is my standard dark chocolate; it is easy-going and will allow itself to be put to almost any use. Lindt 70% has a wonderful fruity flavour, but needs a little more attention. Green and Black’s is also superb. I’ll leave it up to you to make wise choices. There’s no need to get snobbish and obsessive, but you need chocolate with a high cocoa butter content and good flavour characteristics. Taste is your best guide.
Most of the truffles here are covered with cocoa or another decoration, so you need not temper the coating chocolate; simple melting is enough. An improvised bain-marie works even better than a double boiler, as you can use a smaller bowl. Break up the chocolate and put it in a heatproof bowl that fits snugly over a saucepan of boiling water. The bowl should not touch the water and no steam should escape from the sides of the pan. See for more information on melting/tempering.
As far as size goes, you may find mine on the generous side. I don’t like the Malteser-sized kind. Make them smaller if you must, but take into account that you will need a larger amount of coating chocolate to cover the extra numbers you have created. You will also be ingesting more cocoa per bite, which will alter the overall taste experience.
A fairly cool setting is best for making truffles. However, it doesn’t always work out that way and that need not deter you. Avoid the most obvious evildoers: sun streaming onto your work surface, an overheated kitchen, mugginess and high humidity. The warmer it is, the more chilling will be needed, but you should still be able to turn out delicious truffles.
I find that chilling in stages works best and is quicker and easier in the long run. Instead of leaving the filling to set completely in the bowl in the refrigerator, I leave it there until it will hold its shape, and then make little heaps on a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper. At this stage, the heaps need not be completely neat. They are then chilled again until completely firm, then quickly re-rolled between your palms to neaten before being rolled or dipped. This saves you from having to struggle with a mixture that is harder in some places than others as the heaps chill more evenly. If you find that the filling is very soft after shaping, chill again until firm.
It is fine for truffles that are to be rolled in chocolate between your palms to be very cold, so you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes to speed up the process, instead of chilling them in the usual way. However, those that are to be dipped should be chilled, not even briefly frozen, or the dipping chocolate will lose its temperature very quickly and it will become difficult to coat them evenly; you may need to reheat the chocolate. The Dutch Cream Truffles are different – follow the instructions in the recipe.
Use the method described in the recipe. Hand-coating by rolling between your palms will give a beautifully thin, crisp and brittle coating, just enough to contain the filling and to fix the cocoa. It is quite messy, but not unpleasant. Scrape the excess from your hands on the side of the bowl at regular intervals and keep lots of kitchen paper towels and a damp cloth handy to deal with spills. Dipping uses more chocolate and produces a thicker layer. If the chocolate is too warm, much of it will fall off to make a foot, so keep it between 30–35°C/86–95°F. White chocolate covering a dark filling can sometimes be transparent enough to reflect the filling. If you find this unattractive, you can double-dip them. Leave the first coat to set, then dip them a second time in melted chocolate.
A two-tined or round chocolate-dipping fork is useful to have because less of the dipping chocolate clings to it than to a multi-tined dinner fork. If you don’t have one, use a dinner fork, but make sure that you tap it well and pass it over the rim of the bowl to remove excess chocolate.
Cocoa for dusting needs to be scattered liberally. You will not use all of it, but an abundant layer makes it easier to coat the truffles. If you are making a subsequent batch of truffles within a day or two, it will still be usable. Sift it and add more as needed. Or use it in a chocolate cake or make a cup of cocoa. After all, you are using the best quality cocoa and why discard what can be reused?
Pack truffles in layers in airtight boxes with sheets of greaseproof paper separating them. Keep them for up to two weeks in the refrigerator or more than a month in the freezer. If the truffles go ‘bald’ on thawing (due to moisture), re-dust them lightly with cocoa. Truffles can be eaten straight from the refrigerator, but they are even better if allowed to come to room temperature. The recipes give serving guidelines. Present them in sweet cases if you like, or arrange them on a dish. The sweet cases will minimise cocoa spillage.
You need only a few basic pieces of equipment to create gorgeous truffles:
saucepan for cream
wire whisk
wide shallow bowl for chilling filling
bowl and saucepan for melting coating chocolate in a bain-marie
a few large teaspoons or small dessertspoons
chocolate dipping fork or dinner fork (for dipped truffles)
dinner fork for rolling in cocoa
a small sheet lined with greaseproof paper for the heaps of filling
a small sheet for the cocoa
kitchen paper and a damp cloth
airtight containers for storage
This fruity truffle is a long-standing family favourite. A few days in the refrigerator brings out even more flavour – if you can bring yourself to leave them for that long. Use seedless purée made from undiluted fruit and without added sugar. If not, you will miss out on the flavour. You can make your own purée by pressing fresh or thawed frozen raspberries through a sieve. Preserves are not suitable.
Makes 20
For the filling
75 ml/2½ fl oz/5 tbsp double cream
3 tbsp unsweetened raspberry purée
175 g/6 oz/6 squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
For the coating
20–25 g/¾–1 oz/scant ¼–¼ cup (unsweetened) cocoa powder
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, broken into pieces
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and stir in the raspberry purée. Bring the mixture to the boil and switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped milk and dark chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper, they needn’t be very neat. Chill again until very firm. At this stage, you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, scatter the cocoa onto a small baking sheet. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F, or it will form too thin a coat.
Dip a ball of filling partially into the melted dark chocolate and roll quickly between your palms to coat with a thin layer of chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the cocoa and coat the rest in the same way. When all have been sealed with chocolate, use a clean fork to roll the truffles around in the cocoa to coat well. Just push the truffle lightly with the end of the fork, making it turn little somersaults until evenly coated with a layer of cocoa. Shift the coated truffles to one side.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
Excellent with or without an after-dinner cup of coffee. Try to get the instant espresso powder, as it is more intense than regular instant coffee granules. Failing that, crush granules before measuring. Note that these need to be dipped before being rolled in cocoa. Hand-coating will make the two colours bleed into each other.
Makes 20
For the filling
125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup double cream
250 g/9 oz/9 squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
2¼–2½ tsp instant espresso powder
For the coating
20–25 g/¾–1 oz/scant ¼–¼ cup (unsweetened) cocoa powder
150 g/5½ oz/5½ squares white chocolate, broken into pieces
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped milk chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Sprinkle the 2¼ tsp coffee powder over the chocolate and leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Taste at this stage and add more coffee if needed, stirring it in well.
Transfer the mixture to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until very firm.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, scatter the cocoa onto a small baking sheet. Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F, or it will form too thin a coat.
Drop a ball of filling into the melted chocolate. Swirl it around a little to coat well, then remove it with a dipping or dining fork, tapping the fork several times on the rim of the bowl to get rid of excess chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the cocoa. When all have been sealed with chocolate, use a clean fork to roll the truffles around in the cocoa to coat well. Just push the truffle lightly with the end of the fork, making it turn little somersaults until evenly coated with a layer of cocoa. Shift the coated truffles to one side.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
Although these look pretty innocent, the rum kick is quite potent. They are the easiest of all to make, as the only coating is chocolate vermicelli. For the best results, use a product that is made from real dark chocolate, not confectionery coating. The amount needed will depend on the thickness of the vermicelli.
Makes 20
For the filling
100 ml/3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
250 g/9 oz/9 squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
3 tbsp rum
For the coating
100–150 g/3½–5½ oz dark chocolate vermicelli (as needed)
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Slowly whisk in the rum and continue to whisk until smooth. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until very firm. At this stage, you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes.
For the coating, sprinkle half of the vermicelli onto a plate, adding more later as needed. Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. When all have been shaped, roll them one at a time in the vermicelli to coat and set aside on another plate.
Keep refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for about a month in the freezer.
This combination of powdered Japanese green tea (‘matcha’) with white chocolate is not only irresistible, it is also lovely to look at, and the amount of tea you add will contribute to both colour and flavour. It will also cut some of the sweetness of the white chocolate. Bear in mind that powdered green tea has quite a high caffeine content, and that the actual strength will also depend on the brand. Taste the mixture and see if you need more before you use the larger amount; use even more if you think it is needed.
Makes 20
For the filling
125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup double cream
250 g/9 oz/9 squares white chocolate, finely chopped
about 1½–2 tsp powdered green tea (matcha), plus extra to decorate (as desired)
For the coating
200 g/7 oz/7 squares white chocolate, broken into pieces
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the white chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Sprinkle 1? tsp of the powdered tea over the chocolate and leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Taste at this stage and add more tea if needed, stirring it in well. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until very firm.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F, or it will form too thin a coat.
Drop a ball of filling into the melted chocolate. Swirl it around a little to coat well, then remove it with a dipping or dining fork, tapping the fork several times on the rim of the bowl to get rid of excess chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the greaseproof paper and repeat for the rest. Leave to set completely before removing from the paper.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
Many types of dried fruit go extremely well with chocolate; chocolate-coated raisins, for example, are popular throughout the world. I’m not a fan myself, finding that the intense sweetness of the raisins largely overpowers whatever chocolate flavour there is. However, there are other combinations that I greatly enjoy, such as the Cheat’s Chocolate Panforte, and these truffles, where cranberries, orange and walnuts are combined with dark chocolate. Instead of being coated with cocoa, they are rolled in powdered pistachios. The pistachios need to be ground to a powder, easily done in a food processor fitted with a sharp blade. A coarser grind will use far more nuts and will result in a more rustic finish.
Makes 20
For the filling
35 g/1¼ oz dried cranberries
35 g/1¼ oz candied orange peel
35 g/1¼ oz/generous ⅓ cup walnuts
100 ml/3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
175 g/6 oz/6 squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
For the coating
50 g/1¾ oz/⅓ cup pistachios, ground to a powder
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, broken into pieces
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Chop the cranberries, orange peel and walnuts very finely in a food processor. If you don’t have one, chop them by hand with a large, very sharp knife, going back and forth several times until very fine. Set aside.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped milk and dark chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Stir in the fruit and nut mixture. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill again until very firm. At this stage, you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, scatter the powdered pistachios onto a plate. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F, or it will form too thin a coat.
Dip a ball of filling partially into the melted dark chocolate and roll quickly between your palms to coat with a thin layer of chocolate. Put it on the powdered pistachios and coat the rest in the same way. After you have coated 3 or 4 with chocolate, start rolling them in the powdered pistachio, or the nuts will not stick. Use a small spoon to sprinkle some of the nuts onto the truffles, then use a clean fork to roll the truffle around in the nuts to coat well. Just push the truffle lightly with the end of the fork, making it turn little somersaults until evenly coated with a layer of nuts.
Put the coated truffles on another plate. Repeat until all the truffles have been shaped and coated with both chocolate and nuts.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
These square truffles are very easy to shape, as they are cut from a block. For the best flavour, toast the hazelnuts well and leave them to cool before grinding them to a fine powder in the food processor. For a less sweet version, switch the amounts of dark and milk chocolate around.
Makes about 24 squares
For the filling
100 ml/3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
150 g/5½ oz/5½ squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
50 g/1¾ oz/1¾ squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
75 g/2½ oz/½ cup toasted hazelnuts, ground to powder
1–2 tbsp (unsweetened) cocoa powder
For the coating
20–25 g/¾–1 oz/scant ¼–¼ cup (unsweetened) cocoa powder
90 g/3¼ oz/3¼ squares dark chocolate, melted
Line a 15 × 10-cm/6 × 4-in loaf tin generously with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped milk and dark chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Stir in the powdered nuts thoroughly and leave to stand for about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, scatter 1–2 tbsp cocoa over the base of the prepared loaf tin. Pour the filling into the tin and leave to come to room temperature, then chill until firm enough to cut.
Use the paper to lift the block out of the tin. Put it on a flat surface and carefully peel back the sides. Hold a large knife under very hot water, dry quickly and cut the block into 2.5-cm/1-in squares. Hold the knife under hot water and dry before each cut. Separate the squares on the paper and transfer to a small sheet. Chill until firm. You can put it into the freezer for 10–15 minutes to speed up the process, if you wish.
For the coating, scatter the remaining cocoa onto a small baking sheet. Dip a square of filling into the melted dark chocolate and use your palms and fingers to coat without losing the shape. Pay special attention to the base, which will have a layer of cocoa. Just rub on chocolate as needed until it forms a thin layer. Deposit it gently onto the cocoa and coat the rest in the same way. After you have sealed all with chocolate, use a fork to turn them over in the cocoa so that the cocoa layer is on top. Leave to set until the chocolate is firm enough to be handled. Shift a little pile of cocoa to one side. Pick up each square lightly and press the sides into the cocoa.
Keep them refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for about a month in the freezer.
Here is a log shape for variety. The truffle mixture is soft and packs quite a punch. You need to handle them with a gentle touch, but they are not difficult to shape. Reducing the quantity of Grand Marnier to 30 ml/1 fl oz/2 tbsp will give a slightly firmer and less boozy result.
Makes 20
For the filling
100 ml/3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
175 g/6 oz/6 squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
3 tbsp Grand Marnier liqueur
For the coating
20–25 g/¾–1 oz/scant ½–½ cup (unsweetened) cocoa powder
100 g/3½ oz/3½ squares dark chocolate, melted
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped milk and dark chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a hand whisk until smooth. Slowly whisk in the liqueur and continue to whisk until smooth. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to shape 20 elongated heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until very firm. At this stage, you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make log shapes and replace them on the greaseproof paper. The mixture is quite soft, so chill again until firm.
For the coating scatter the cocoa onto another small baking sheet. Dip a log of filling partially into the melted dark chocolate, and roll quickly between your palms to coat with a thin layer of chocolate, not forgetting the ends. Put it on the cocoa and coat the rest in the same way. When all have been sealed with chocolate, use a clean fork to roll the truffles around in the cocoa to coat well. Just push the log lightly with the end of the fork, making it turn little somersaults until evenly coated with a layer of cocoa. To coat the ends, pick up a log and press both ends lightly into the cocoa. Be gentle, so that you don’t damage the thin chocolate layer. Shift the coated truffles to one side.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve straight from the refrigerator or remove about half an hour before needed. Room temperature will give a very soft filling, if you prefer that. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
I really wanted to call these truffles ‘Montezuma’s Dream’, but thought better of it after my tasters burst out laughing when they heard it, as they all immediately substituted ‘revenge’ for ‘dream’ in their minds. I still think Montezuma would have liked them, particularly as they contain two ingredients that the Aztecs greatly favoured as flavourings in their cups of bitter frothy chocolate: vanilla beans and chilli pepper. The tiny vanilla seeds give a slight crunch as they pop between the teeth and while these truffles will not have you gasping for breath, they leave the tongue tingling very pleasantly with a satisfying feeling of warmth in the throat. They are quick to make because they do not need to be coated before dusting and are even better after a few days.
Makes 20
125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup double cream
1 tbsp honey
seeds from 1 vanilla pod
200 g/7 oz/7 squares dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), finely chopped
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp chilli powder
a few tbsp (unsweetened) cocoa powder, for dusting
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and stir in the honey and vanilla seeds. Bring the mixture to the boil and switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Sprinkle on the ground spices and leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper. Leave them slightly rugged looking.
Dust the truffles generously with cocoa and place them in cases.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
Dried ginger was a valuable import in Roman times and was originally used medicinally, later finding its way to the kitchen. By the Middle Ages it was already common in the West. Elizabethans seasoned their meat with it and added it to sweet confections such as gingerbread. By that time, it was also being brought in by trading ships as stem ginger preserved in syrup. It was spooned up as a sweetmeat. Nowadays we prefer stem ginger in less overwhelming quantities, generally in combination with other ingredients, in cakes and confectionery such as these truffles. The ginger pairs very well with a fruity very dark chocolate and an outer coating of white chocolate adds both contrast and flavour.
Makes 20
For the filling
125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup double cream
250 g/9 oz/9 squares dark chocolate (preferably 70% cocoa solids), finely chopped
50–60 g/1¾–2¼ oz stem ginger, drained and very finely chopped
For the Coating
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, melted, for sealing
200 g/7 oz/7 squares white chocolate, for dipping
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the finely chopped dark chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Stir in the ginger and transfer to a wide shallow bowl. Leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 teaspoons to dip and shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper, they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until firm.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, dip a ball of filling partially into the melted dark chocolate and roll quickly between your palms to coat with a thin layer of chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the greaseproof paper and coat the rest in the same way.
When the sealing layer has hardened, the truffles can be dipped. Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F. If it is too warm, the layer will be thin and messy because the warm chocolate will cause the dark coating to melt. Drop a ball into the melted chocolate. Give it a quick swirl to coat, then remove it quickly with a fork, tapping the fork several times on the rim of the bowl to get rid of excess chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the greaseproof paper and repeat for the rest. Leave to set completely before removing from the paper and storing in an airtight container in a cool place.
Keep them refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for about a month in the freezer.
These large, rich oval truffles make a refreshing change from chocolate centres. A chocolate shell holds the creamy white filling in check until it can melt deliciously on your tongue with a characteristic silky mouth-feel. They are extremely popular in Holland - hardly surprising considering that cream, butter and cocoa are all produced here to very high standards. Cream is eaten in copious quantities and can be found on all kinds of cakes and desserts and is used to top coffee as a special treat. In general, the Dutch enjoy their cream whipped with a liberal amount of sugar to very stiff peaks, differing from the British, for instance, who prefer a softer whip, or the Germans and Austrians who often serve it unsweetened. It is almost never used simply poured, and strawberries - or any other fruit - and cream means a thick sweet cloud perched on top of the fruit.
Makes just over 24
For the filling
200 ml/7 fl oz/generous ¾ cup whipping cream
100 g/3½ oz/½ cup caster sugar
½–1 vanilla pod
150 g/5½ oz/11 tbsp (scant ½ cup) butter, softened
For the coating
35–40 g/1¼–1½ oz/generous ⅓–scant ½ cup (unsweetened) cocoa powder
250 g/9 oz/9 squares dark chocolate, broken into pieces
Note that this method is quite different from the previous recipes and may appear unorthodox. Bear with me, and you will have your reward. The cream mixture and butter both need to be at room temperature.
Put the cream and sugar in a small saucepan. Split the vanilla pod and scrape out the tiny black seeds. Add both seeds and scraped pod to the pan. The amount you use will depend on the freshness and fragrance of your vanilla pod. I find ½ a pod enough. Heat the mixture very slowly, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Switch off the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved. The cream should not boil, or it will form a skin. Leave to cool to room temperature, removing the vanilla pod just before use.
Use a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment to whisk the butter until smooth. Pour the cream mixture in a very slow, thin stream onto the butter while whisking. Scrape down the sides of the bowl a few times as needed. The mixture will look curdled at first, changing to grainy and lumpy afterwards. Keep on whisking at just above medium speed for several minutes until it emulsifies and looks like a smooth and silky buttercream. Stop whisking. The mixture should be able to hold its shape. If it is slightly soft, chill in the refrigerator for a few minutes.
Line 1 large or 2 small baking sheets with greaseproof paper.
Use 2 small dessertspoons to make quenelles that are rounded on top. To do this, dip some of the mixture with one spoon and transfer it to the second spoon. Use the first spoon to shape it into a nicely domed oval, then slide it off (with the aid of the shaping spoon) onto the greaseproof paper. You should have 25 or 26 ovals. Stick a toothpick or cocktail stick vertically into the centre of each oval, all the way down to the bottom. Put the sheet(s) in the freezer and leave the ovals to freeze.
For the coating, scatter half of the cocoa in an even layer on another baking sheet. Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and leave to cool slightly to about 30°C/86°F, or it will form too thin a coat.
Remove the ovals from the freezer and dip them quickly into the melted dark chocolate, swirling around to coat well. Tap the toothpick rapidly a few times on the side of the bowl to remove excess chocolate and deposit carefully onto the cocoa. You may need to put the bowl of chocolate briefly over the hot water again after dipping about two-thirds of the ovals. When all have been dipped and the chocolate coating has hardened, twist each toothpick gently to remove it. You can apply a little melted chocolate to the hole with a clean toothpick, if you like.
Put the rest of the cocoa in a sieve and dust the truffles generously. Then turn them lightly to dip the narrow rim that has escaped the cocoa so far into the cocoa on the sheet. Arrange on another sheet or platter and chill well before packing into plastic boxes with a sheet of greaseproof paper between the layers.
Refrigerate those that will be eaten within a few days and freeze the rest. Frozen, they will keep for at least a month. Remove them from the refrigerator about half an hour before serving and serve at cool room temperature for the best flavour.
The fragrance and warmth of the spices gives an almost Asian feeling to these truffles. They are coated in slightly sweetened and spiced cocoa, adding a small element of surprise.
Makes 20
For the filling
125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup double cream
200 g/7 oz/7 squares dark chocolate, finely chopped
50 g/1¾ oz/1¾ squares milk chocolate, finely chopped
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground cardamom
generous ⅛ tsp ground ginger large pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
For the coating
3 tbsp (unsweetened) cocoa powder
1 tbsp icing sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
75 g/2¾ oz/2¾ squares dark chocolate, melted
Line a small baking sheet with greaseproof paper.
Put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Switch off the heat. Scatter in the chopped dark and milk chocolate and give the pan a shake so that the liquid covers the chocolate. Sprinkle on the ground spices and leave to stand for 30 seconds or so, then stir thoroughly with a wire whisk until smooth. Transfer to a wide shallow bowl and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator.
As soon as the mixture can hold its shape, use 2 large teaspoons to shape 20 heaps onto the greaseproof paper; they needn’t be very neat. Chill these again until very firm. At this stage, you can even pop them into the freezer for a few minutes.
Roll the chilled chocolate heaps quickly between your palms to make neat balls and replace them on the greaseproof paper. If they feel soft, chill briefly again.
For the coating, sift together the cocoa, icing sugar and cinnamon and scatter onto another small baking sheet.
Dip a ball of filling partially into the melted dark chocolate, and roll quickly between your palms to coat with a thin layer of chocolate. Deposit it gently onto the cocoa mixture and coat the rest in the same way. When all have been sealed with chocolate, use a clean fork to roll the truffles around in the cocoa mixture to coat well. Just push the truffle lightly with the end of the fork, making it turn little somersaults until evenly coated with a layer of the mixture. Shift the coated truffles to one side.
Keep the truffles refrigerated and serve at room temperature. They will keep in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks in the refrigerator and for at least a month in the freezer.
