absolus
Acqua di Ciò
Acqua di Ciò Pour Homme
aerosols vs. sprays
aldehydes
Alexander McQueen
Alhali, Ferouz
Aliage
Allure
Allure Homme
Almairac, Michel
Amarige
Amazone
amber
Amber & Lavender Cologne
ambergris
Ambre Narguilé
ambroxan
Ambroxide
Anaïs Anaïs
Angel
Angéliques sous la pluie
animalics
Apel, Dave
Après l’Ondée
Aramis
Armani, Giorgio
Armani Mania
Armani Mania Pour Homme
Arnold, Belinda
Aromatics Elixir
Arpège
Aswan
Aubepine
Azzaro Pour Homme
Baby Doll
Baschmakoff, Thierry de
Basset, Franck-Alexandre
Bauer, Albert
Be Delicious
Beautiful
Beaux, Ernest
Becker, Calice
Beckett, Samuel
Beetz, Bernd
Bel Ami
Belluci, Monica
Belmay, xviii
Benaïm, Carlos
Benetton perfumes
Benjamin, Max
benzophenones
Bertoux, Quentin
Beyond Paradise
Bezucha, Thomas
Bigarade
Biolande
Biotherm Man
Black
Black Code
Black Orchid
Bleuet, Philippe
Bloomingdale’s
Blush Marc Jacobs
Boidin, Guirec
Bois d’Iris
Bois d’Ombrie, 219—
Bon Marché
Bonnie Belle Skin Musk
Boss Hugo Boss
Boss In Motion
Boucheron
Bourdon, Pierre
BPI
brand control
Bright Crystal
Broderick, James Wilke
Broderick, Matthew
Brooks, Mel
Brosius, Christopher
Bruyère, Laurent
Bugey, Daphné
Bulgari, xvii
Burberry
Burr, Chandler
Busee, Betty
Buttacavoli, Frank A.
Buzantian, Annie
Cabochard
Calèche
Calone
Camail, Francis
capucine, la
cardamom
Carles, Jean
Carolina
Caron, Françoise
Carré Basset Associés
carrot
Cartier
Cashmere Mist
castoreum
Catapano, Josephine
Cavallier, Jacques
celebrity perfumes
Céline Dion
C’est La Vie
Chabbert, Sabine
Chaillan, Jean-Marc
Champs Elysées
Chance
Chanel, Coco, xix
Chanel No.
creation of
price-per-kilo of
sales of
use of synthetics
Chanel No.
Chanel No. xix
Chanel perfumes
in-house perfumers
materials for
measures to control diverting
ownership of
placement on NPD’s list
synthetics in
Chantecaille, Sylvie
Char, René
Charabot
Chelsea Flowers
Chen, Eva
Chic
Chrome
Chupa Chups
chypre
cinnamon
Cinnibar
civet
cK Be
cK One
Clément, Anne-Lise
meeting on Nil essais
packaging meetings
planning for launch of Nil
scheduling of Nil
Cléro, Rémi
co-ops
Coco
Coco Mademoiselle
Cole, Kenneth
Commes des Garçons
Cool Water
Corticchiato, Marc-Antoine
cosmetic chemistry
Coty,See also Lovely
Coty, François
coumarin
Coupat, Gilles
Covet
Crave
Cresp, Olivier
Cristalle
Curve for Men
Cusak, Ralph
Cusak, Susannah. See Ellena, Susannah
Davidoff
Déclaration
Delville, Jean-Claude
Demachy, François
DeMercado, Steven
Desperate Housewives
detergents
Different Company
Dinand, Pierre
DiNapoli, Jon
Dior Addict
Dior Homme
Dior perfumes
Diorama
Diorella
Dioressence
Diorissimo
Divine Bergamot
Dolce, Domenico
Dolce Vita
Doletskaya, Aliona
Donche, Françoise
Drakkar Noir
Dreamer, The
Drom, xviii
Dubrule, Hélène
description of
packaging meetings
press launch for Nil
reactions to Ellena’s essais
responsibilities at Hermès
scheduling of Nil
trip to Aswan
Duchaufour, Bertrand
Dumas-Hermès, Jean-Louis
Dune Pour Homme
Duriez, Jean-Michel
Eau de Bulgari
Eau de Campagne
Eau de Rochas
Eau des Merveilles
Eau d’Hermès
Eau d’Orange Verte
Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert de Bulgari
Eau Sauvage
Edwards, Michael
Egoïste
Egoïste Platinum
Ellena, Bernard
Ellena, Céline
Ellena, Hervé
Ellena, Jean-Claude
acceptance of Hermès position
background of
comments on Hermès appointment of
communication with Burr
contract discussions with Hermès
creation of Hermèssences
creative role at Hermès
on faith in quality
final formula for Nil
first essais for Nil
lab of
meeting on Aswan book
meeting on manufacturing Nil
new molecular distillations of
perfume company of
on perfume formulas
physical description of
press launch for Nil
on pricing of perfumes
on rate of new launches
relationship with children
relationship with wife
research in Aswan
scent signature for Hermès
scent style of
second essais for Nil
secrecy of formulae
on smells of different eras
view of synthetics
Ellena, Pierre
Ellena, Susannah
Emperor of Scent, The (Burr)
Emporio Armani
emulsion
Engen, Trygg
Equipage
Ermenidis, Ilias
Escada
Escada Magnetism for Men
Escape for Men
essences
Estée
Eternity
Eternity for Men
ethanol
ethyl maltol
Euphoria
Fahrenheit
Family Stone, The
Féminité du Bois
Ferval, Véronique
Feu d’Issey, Le
Firmenich
First
flankers
Fléchier, Edouard
Fleur de Cassie, Une
fleurs d’acacia
Flipo, Anne
Floren, Clay
Flower by Kenzo
Fougère Royale
Fracas
Fragrance Resources
freesia
Frémont, Harry
French Lime Blossom
Fresh
Friend, Tad
Galaxolide
Galeries Lafayette
gas chromatograph
Gaultier, Jean Paul
agreement to Burr’s project
creation of perfume brief
on customer variables
defining of Hermès perfume
description of
discussions on essais for Nil
final decision on Nil formula
hiring of Ellena
press launch for Nil
pricing of perfume
reputation of
selection of bottle for Nil
trip to Aswan
view of synthetics
Gavarry, Clément
Gavarry, Max
geranium
Gere, Richard
Giô
Giono, Jean
Givaudan
Glamourous
Glazman, Lev
Globe
Glow
Goddess
Goodfellas Pizza
Gottlieb, Ann
grapefruit
Grapefruit Cologne
Grasse
green mango
Grojsman, Sophia
Guerlain
Guerlain, Aimé
Guerlain, Jacques
Guéros, Pierre-Constantin
Guichard, Jean
gylcerine
Habit Rouge
Haie Fleurie du Hameau, La
Hall, Scott
Happy
Happy Heart
Hedione
Hermès
brand control over perfumes
flagship store
founding of
hiring of perfumer
in Pantin
perfume briefs
perfume sales
scent signature of
Hermèssences collection
Herrera, Caroline
Hess, Peter
description of
negotiations with Coty
Higher
Higher for Men
Hilfiger, Tommy
Hilton, Paris
Hiris
Hugo
Hugo Boss perfumes
hydroxy butyl thiazol
Hypnotique Poison
Ibiza Hippie
In Love Again
Incense Avignon
indoles
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF)
International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
ionone
Iris Poudre
isobutyl phenylacetate
Jacobs, Marc, xvii
J’adore
Jaipur
Jardin en Méditerranée, Un
Jardin sur le Nil, Un
final formula for
first essais for
Hermès’ ownership of
launching of
naming of
packaging for
second essais for
secrecy of formula for
special prestige box set of
Jasmin du Nuit
Javanol
Jean Paul Caultier
Jicky
Jil Sander Sun
Joy
Juicy Couture
Karanal
Karen, Donna
Kelly Calèche
Kenneth Cole Black
Kenneth Cole NY Black
Kenzo Pour Homme
Kitchener
Kors, Michael
Kouros
Krivda, James
Kurkdjian, Francis
labdanum
Laboratoires Monique Rémy (LMR)
L’Air du Temps
Laird, Trey
Lamejer, Virginie
Lancôme
Langston Stewart, Margaret
lantana, la
Lanvin Vetyver
Laprade, Christelle
l’Artisan Parfumeur
Laudamiel, Cristophe
Lauder, Estée
marketing of perfumes
and Michael Kors’ perfumes
perfumes created for
placement on NPD’s list
sales from Youth-Dew
and Tommy Hilfiger’s perfumes
Lauder, Leonard, xviii
Laudmiel, Christophe
Lauren, Ralph
Laurent, Mathilde
Lavigne, Chad
L’Eau by Laura Ashley
L’Eau d’Hiver
L’Eau d’Issey
L’Eau d’Issey Homme
L’Eau d’Italie
Le Guernec, Laurent
creation of Lovely
perfumes created by
reaction to Burr’s article
Leoni, Francesca
L’Heure Blue
licensing contracts
Light Blue
linalol 124—
L’Instant de Cuerlain
Liquid Satin
livèche
Livingston, Jennifer
Lolita Lempicka
Lopez, Jennifer
L’Oréal
lotus roots
Lovely
bottle for
ingredients in
launching of
perfume brief for
placement on NPD’s list
sales figures for
structure of
LVMH
M 167—
M7 Fresh
Macy’s
Magie
magnolia
Magnolia Bakery
Mahora
Male, Le
Malle, Frédéric
Malone, Jo
Mane
mangoes
Mansau, Serge
Marcello, Vince
Mareuil, Véronique
Mariage Frères
marketing consultants
Martin, J. P.
mass spectrometer
McGuire, Toby
memory of places
Mendes, Sam
Menkes, Suzy
Mentzer, Josephine Esther. See Lauder, Estée
methyl dihydrojasmonate. See Hedione
methyl ionone
methyl vanillin
Michael
Midnight Poison
Miracle
Mirzayantz, Nicolas
Miss Dior
Mitsouko
Miyake, Issey
molecular distillations
Monteil, Olivier
Morillas, Alberto
Mukki
Mulroney, Dermot
Mûre et Musc
musk
Nagel, Christine
Negrin, Pierre
Nelson, Craig T.
New York
as a capital of perfume
scents of
Night for Her
Nil Hermès
Nilsen, Stephen
Noa
Nombre Noir
Nordstrom
Noxema Cold Cream
NPD
Nu
Ô de Lancôme
oak moss
Obsession
Obsession for Men
Oglesby, Leslie
oil mixed into water (O/W)
Old Cataract Hotel
Opium
opoponax
orange blossom
Orange Verte
Organza
Osmanthe Yunnan
Osmanthus
Ovando, Sandra de
Ovando (flower store)
packaging choices
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
Paltrow, Gwyneth
Paprika Brasil
parallel market
Paris, xiv
Paris
Parker, Charlotte
Parker, Sarah Jessica as artistic director of Lovely
Burr’s initial interview with
67—
on creating perfume
desire to create a perfume
family background of
at IFF’s perfumery school
meetings on Liquid Satin
meetings on Lovely
negotiations with Coty
personal scent mixed by
physical description of
quote in press release
reactions to different scents
training on cosmetic chemistry
work on The Family Stone, 176—
Parlux
perfume
appearance, form, and format of
bases for
bottles for
familiar vs. original scents
flankers
flat sales figures
import duty on
licensing contracts
and luxury brands, xvi
markups on
NPD’s list of bestsellers
packaging of
pricing of
scent signatures of brands
science of
smells of various eras
synthetics in
trying on
perfume briefs
perfume industry
accounting system
bottle designers
creativity vs. finances
development costs
distribution system
in France vs. in America
grosses vs. profits
launching costs
patronage system
press releases
secrecy of formulae
view of synthetics
perfumers
designers’ use of
interactions with each other
modern labs of
psychological difficulties of
role of
sensorial perception of
Pleasures
plexiglass displays (PLVs)
Poison
Poivre Samarcande
Polge, Jacques
Polge, Olivier
Polo
Polo Blue
Polo Sport
Pong Sri
Port, Andy
Pour Femme
Pour Monsieur, xix
PPR
Prada
press releases
Printemps
Private Collection
Procter & Gamble
propylene glycol
Puig
Pure Poison
Quelques Fleurs
Quest
Rabanne, PacoRalph
Rawyler, Fred
Relyea, Melinda
Rémy, Frédérique
Rémy, Monique
Revlon
Ricci, Nina, xx
Robert, François
Robert, Guy
Robert, Henri
Robertet
Roberts, Pamela
Rocabar
Romance
Romance for Men
Ropion, Dominique
Rose Ikebana
Rose Poivrée
roses
Ross, Yvette
Roucel, Maurice
Roudnitska, Edmond
Rouge Hermès
Rush
S-Perfume
Sabas, Caroline
Saint Gobain
Saint Laurent, Yves
Sake
Saks
salt
Samsara
Sandalore
sandalwood
Sant Ambroeus
Santaliff
Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely. See Lovely
Scannavini, Michele
scent-maker corporations
scent signatures of brands
Schnabel, Julian
Schwarzenegger, Arnold
Sel de Vetiver
Semoff, Steve
Sephora
Shalimar
Shalimar Light
Shields, Brooke
Shiftan, Ernest
Shioya, Nobi
Sieuzac, Jean-Louis
Sieuzac, Lucas
sillage
smell and memory
So New York
Spellbound
spices, hot vs. cold
spiffing
sprays vs. aerosols
St.-John’s Wort
Stella
styrex
sweet myrrh
Symrise, xviii
synesthesia
synthetics in perfumes
Takasago
tarragon
tea
Tendre Poison
Terre d’Hermès
thistles
Timiraos, Carlos
on bottle for Lovely
concept prep work
creation of perfume briefs
creative meetings on Lovely
description of
first meeting with Parker
launching of Lovely
meeting on Liquid Satin
research on a Parker perfume
on sales figures for Lovely
on success of perfumes
testing of perfume submissions
Tommy
Tommy Cirl
Tonquin musk
Touati, Edith
Toulemonde, Bernard
travel, memories of
Treciokas, Ina
Trembley, Joanne H.
Trésor
Turkish rose absolute
24 Faubourg
Tyler, Liv
Unilever
Vacher, Paul
vanillin
Vasnier, Yann
Vera Wang
Very Irresistible
vetiver
Vetiver
Vetiver Tonka
volatility
Völkl, Frank
Walsh, Catherine
approach to Lovely
concept prep work
creation of perfume briefs
description of
family background of
on first draft of Lovely
launching of Lovely
meetings on Liquid Satin
negotiations with Hess and Parker
Parker’s impression of
on Parker’s personality
on sales figures for Lovely
testing of perfume submissions
use of perfume consultants
Wargnier, Stéphane
Wargnye, Pierre
Wasser, Thierry
water mixed into oil (W/O)
White Linen
Wilson, Luke
Winfrey, Oprah
Winnegrad, Ron
Winslet, Kate
XS
Yatagan
Youth-Dew
Ysatis