Alla Wolf-Tasker AM

Presented in 2009

Smoked eel brandade with cucumber

Serves 4–6

Brandade croquettes

about 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) cleaned and deboned smoked eel fillet

3–4 confit garlic cloves (optional)

1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boiled potatoes, peeled then passed through a mouli and kept warm

about 150 ml (5 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil, warmed (quantity depends on the fattiness of the eel)

100 ml (3½ fl oz) milk (warm)

freshly ground white pepper

4 large eggs

300 g (10½ oz/2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour

300 g (10½ oz) breadcrumbs (preferably panko)

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Cucumber salad

3 medium cucumbers

salt and pepper

lemon and olive oil dressing (1 part lemon juice to 3 parts extra virgin olive oil, mixed with salt and pepper)

fresh dill, finely chopped

Herbed crème fraîche

300 g (10½ oz) crème fraîche

6 chives, finely chopped

3 sprigs dill, finely chopped

To make the brandade croquettes, preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3).

Cut the eel fillet into pieces and pulse in a food processor with the confit garlic, if using, until a coarse purée. Scrape into a large bowl and add the warm potato, olive oil, milk and pepper. Beat together with a wooden spoon or with an electric beater until the mixture just comes together. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Divide the mixture into 12 portions and roll into croquettes. Alternatively, shape into quenelles with large spoons. Chill the shaped portions or even place in the freezer for a few minutes to make crumbing easier.

Whisk the eggs in a bowl. Dust each croquette lightly in the flour, dip in the whisked egg and coat with the breadcrumbs.

Heat the oil to 180°C (350°F). Fry the croquettes just until golden brown. Drain on paper towel.

Place on a baking tray to finish cooking in the oven, about 6 minutes. If you are not serving until later, reduce the oven heat to low.

To make the cucumber salad, peel and deseed the cucumbers. Using a swivel peeler, cut ribbons down the length of the cucumbers and all around. Cut the ribbons into fine julienne. Sprinkle the cucumber with a little salt and leave to drain in a colander for 10 minutes. Quickly rinse the cucumber under running water and dry. Toss with the dressing. Add the chopped dill to taste and season with salt and pepper.

To make the herbed crème fraîche, combine the ingredients in a bowl.

Serve the brandade croquettes with the cucumber salad and herbed crème fraîche.

Frankly I’ve never seen a festival so genuinely embraced by such a diverse audience. Food has the capacity to engage and link people, and the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival delivers that sense of engagement in spades. From high-end haute cuisine to local events in small rural communities, there’s a real buzz. ALLA WOLF-TASKER, 2009