In vino, veritas…a Latin phrase meaning “in wine, truth.” Its sentiments, however, are certainly not unique to Roman society. Indeed, numerous civilizations throughout history have similar phrasings given the prominence that wine has played, and continues to play, in diverse religious, cultural, and social events. Yet, despite its nearly seven millenia as part of the human experience, our understanding of this beverage and all of its truths remains woefully incomplete, even in light of the prowess of modern science. The reasons for this state of affairs are complicated, perhaps justifiably so given that it is the complexity of wine that draws many to its taste and to learning the art of its production.
At its most basic level, wine is a mixture of hundreds of different molecules in a constant state of flux, a feature that gives it the quality of being a living, breathing thing. The identity and concentration of these varied compounds at any given time depends on every factor conceivable, from the vine and the soil, to the weather that season, to the full production process, to how a bottle has been stored, to how long a poured glass or opened bottle has had a chance to breathe before being enjoyed. Our perception of its taste is equally fluid, dependent on its temperature, our mood, what else we have recently consumed, and how well our receptors can distinguish those hundreds of molecules in the first place. Thus, if we are even to consider how to unlock the complexity of wine, we must start by understanding this beverage from the standpoint of its chemistry, since it is molecules and what they can do that is at the heart of the matter.
This text by Waterhouse, Sacks, and Jeffery is an excellent starting point for such investigations. Chemistry on its own can seem hopelessly complex, but what these leading scholars have managed to accomplish seemlessly over the course of 33 chapters is the means not only to appreciate, but also to understand the relevant chemistry and chemical phenomena that impact every element of wine from an analytical, organic, and physical perspective. That success results from an approach that first details all of the different compound classes that are found in wine, their reactivities, and how they can contribute to its final taste profile. The text then moves on to the production process and explains, at an appropriately detailed chemical level, not only the fermentation and production process overall, but how each of its steps and certain decisions along the way can impact what molecules, and how much of them, end up in the final product. Finally, by presenting the latest scholarship, the authors highlight the frontiers of wine chemistry research, indicating opportunities for readers to pursue further avenues of discovery if so inclined.
Whether a neophyte, a connoisseur, a production hobbyist, or an aspiring professional, this carefully crafted text offers all readers an opportunity to enhance their knowledge of and appreciation for this wonderful beverage, along with the potential to contribute to enhancements in its future enjoyment. It is certainly hoped that these authors will continue to supplement and refine this already excellent work in the years to come through further editions as the knowledge of wine chemistry continues to grow. However, for now, congratulations are due for their efforts in successfully distilling diverse knowledge drawn from many different disciplines of chemistry into a fully accessible, engaging, and pedagogically powerful approach to the science of wine.