It’s a cold, blustery January day in the late 1700s when a storm-bound ship from the south of Spain docks in Dundee harbour. The town does not normally trade with Spain, so the cargo of ‘Seville sours’ (bitter oranges) on board is especially intriguing. Retired tailor, John Keiller, has taken a wander down to the harbour, as he does most days, to join in the quayside chat whilst keeping an eye out for the odd package of fruits or spices that might be a useful ingredient for his wife’s bakery business. No one is very interested in the inedible bitter oranges, so he decides to buy some and, unknowingly, founds a dynasty which will last a hundred years and become bigger in confectionery, during the nineteenth century, than either Cadburys or Frys.
John’s wife, Janet Keiller, has her shop on the south side of the Seagate where she has spent the best part of her life making preserves, jellies, biscuits, sweeties and cakes. She has always believed in diversifying into unique lines and it has certainly paid off. Now she is almost 60 and is ready to retire. She is keen, however, to use the modest assets she has accumulated over the years to help her son, James, develop the business. Of all her seven children, he is the only son who has shown an interest in her enterprise and has developed her innovative flair. He is just 22 when she hands over the business to him in 1797.
Though the Keillers were not marmalade’s inventors (recipes exist in English cookery books dating back to the seventeenth century), they were the first to perfect the recipe and make it on a large scale. While his mother provided the financial support, it was James who was the marmalade innovator. One local writer of the day refers to his ‘remarkable success in experiments with oranges’.
Once the process was perfected, the Keillers developed strong links with the growers in Spain where they bought the best Seville oranges, aiming to beat their competitors on quality, as they did in all their other products. Despite their early success, however, the Keiller family lost control of the business in the closing years of the nineteenth century, though the name and their marmalade survived into the 1980s, when it eventually became a victim of take-over and asset-stripping by multinational confectioners. The Albert Museum in Dundee has a rich archive of Keiller memorabilia and the history of the family has been researched by W M Mathew in Keiller’s of Dundee and the Rise of the Marmalade Dynasty (Dundee 1998).
The Northern climate in Scotland (long hours of summer daylight and little scorching summer sun) is particularly suited to growing soft, delicate berries. They ripen slowly to an exceptional sweetness and have grown wild for centuries. In the Tayside area, in particular, large scale commercial growing began in the early twentieth century – strawberries to begin with, later raspberries. This led to the tradition of preserving the fruit in jams and jellies mostly in Dundee, which for a time, was known as the ‘jam capital’ of Scotland.
General Cook’s Tips for Preserves: It’s best to use a large, wide, stainless steel, brass or lined aluminium preserving pan or large wide, heavy-based pot to allow maximum evaporation. The faster the evaporation, the sooner the preserve will set and therefore the better the finished flavour.
Never fill above halfway. If making jellies, use either a jelly bag or a square of muslin. Never squeeze the bag since it will make the jelly cloudy.
Pectin is the setting agent in fruit – the less ripe the fruit, the higher the pectin content. Naturally high-pectin fruits are: Seville oranges, gooseberries, cooking apples, lemons and damsons. Naturally low-pectin fruits are: cherries, grapes, peaches, rhubarb and strawberries. All others have a medium content. To improve the setting qualities, high-pectin fruits may be added, such as lemons, or commercially bottled liquid pectin, or preserving sugar with pectin added. Using these will speed up the boiling time necessary to achieve a set and improve the finished flavour.
TO TEST FOR A SET WITH A SUGAR THERMOMETER: the preserve is ready when the temperature reaches 105°C/221°F.
TO TEST FOR A SET WITH SAUCERS: put two saucers into the freezer to chill before beginning the boiling. Put a little of the preserve onto the cold saucer. Push the preserve with a finger across the saucer and if the surface wrinkles it has reached setting point. If not, continue to boil and test again in five minutes with the second saucer.
POTTING, COVERING AND STORING: pots should be thoroughly cleaned and heated before potting the preserve. The surface should be covered with a wax disc as soon as they are filled. Allow them to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. If covered before they have cooled they are more likely to mould. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
This is an old-fashioned thick, bitter marmalade using lemon for added sharpness. All the bitter white pith can be used.
Cook’s Tips: The pips are the main source of pectin (gelling material) in oranges and should be put in a bag and boiled with the rest of the oranges and sugar. For best results make up in small quantities since it is then easier to control the setting point.
Yield: 5-6 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) Seville oranges
Water to cover
500g (1lb) sugar to every 600ml (1pt) juice
2 lemons
Heat jars.
PREPARING THE FRUIT: Wash the oranges well and put them in the preserving pan. Pour over boiling water to cover. Simmer until the fruit softens. It should take between one and two hours. When cool, cut in half, remove the pulp with a spoon and put into a bowl. Cut up the skins into chips. Size is a personal taste. Put the pulp through a sieve. It goes through easily and you can decide at this point whether you want to put all the bitter pith through or not. Extract the pips, put into a muslin bag and tie up.
FINISHING THE MARMALADE: Put the chips and pulp into the water that the fruit was boiled in. Measure and add 500g (1lb 2oz) preserving sugar for every 300ml (1pt) liquid. Put into the pan with the zest and juice of the lemons. Bring to the boil and simmer till set. Test by putting a teaspoonful on a chilled saucer and placing it in the deep freeze compartment for a few minutes to chill and give you a quick result. The surface should set and crinkle when pushed with a finger. Do not boil too vigorously while the test is being done otherwise the setting point may be missed. Remove from the heat, skim with a slotted spoon and leave for 10 minutes to cool before potting – this prevents the chips sinking. Pour into clean, hot jars. Seal with waxed disk and cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
ADDING OTHER FLAVOURS: Spirits or liqueurs can be added to marmalade at this point before it is set. Leave a space at the top of the jar and add a tablespoonful. Cover and seal. Use whisky, brandy or rum.
This is a sweeter and less time-consuming recipe than the previous one since a processor is used to cut the skins and pulp.
Cook’s Tip: It is important to extract as much of the pectin from the pips since they provide the main setting agent in marmalade.
Yield: 6-7 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) Seville oranges
2 lemons, juice of
2L (3pt 10fl oz) water
2kg (4lb 8oz) preserving sugar
Heat jars.
PREPARATION: The day before: halve the oranges and squeeze out the juice. Soak the pips in 600ml (1pt) water. Remove the pith. Shred the orange skins in a food processor and soak overnight in the remainder of the water.
MAKING THE MARMALADE: Strain the liquid from the pips into the preserving pan. Tie the pips up in a muslin and add to the pan. Add the shredded peel soaked in the water. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally, till the peel is soft (one to two hours) and the liquid has reduced by about half. Add the sugar, orange and lemon juice. Stir to dissolve sugar. Boil to 221°F/105°C and test for a set (see p181). Remove scum with a slotted spoon and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Stir to distribute the peel. Pot and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then, allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
The full, fresh tang of raspberries is preserved in this non-cooked jam, which is thickened with liquid pectin then deep frozen. It can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Yield: 3 jars or several small plastic tubs
450g (1lb) fruit
600g (1lb 5oz) caster sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
125ml (4fl oz) commercial liquid pectin (Certo)
MAKING: Put the fruit into a bowl with the sugar and lemon juice and stir till the sugar is dissolved. Leave to stand for at least an hour or overnight. Stir. Add the pectin and mix in well. Ladle into jars, cover with lids or put into small plastic tubs with lids and store in the fridge where it will keep for two to three weeks. Alternatively, put into the freezing compartment if you want to store for longer.
Cook’s Tips: For the best flavour in a cooked jam, it should be boiled briefly which will not, in this case, produce a firm jam, but one that can be used as a sauce with puddings, pancakes, ices and meringues.
Yield: 3-4 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) raspberries
1kg (2lb 4oz) sugar
Knob of butter
Heat jars.
PREPARING: Pick over the fruit and place in layers in a large bowl with the sugar. Cover and leave in a cool place for about 24 hours to allow the juice to run. Stir to dissolve the sugar.
MAKING AND POTTING: Turn the raspberries and sugar into a preserving pan, add the butter and bring gently to the boil. Boil for three minutes. Leave to cool. Pot and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
This is a runny syrup with whole berries and not a spreading jam. It can be served with hot pancakes or crumpets (see p151) from the girdle, or with ice cream or other sweets.
Cook’s Tips: Not suitable for very ripe fruit.
Yield: 3 jars
500g (1lb 2oz) small firm strawberries
1 lemon, juice of
500g (1lb 2oz) granulated sugar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Wash and drain the strawberries, remove stalks and put them into a wide, shallow pan (a large, deep frying pan) with the lemon juice. Put the sugar on a plate in a warm oven to dry out for about an hour. Cook the berries on the lowest heat until soft and the juices are running. Add sugar and stir to dissolve. Bring to the boil. Remove the berries with a slotted spoon and place in a sieve over a bowl. Continue to simmer the sugar syrup to reduce it by about half. Add the liquid which has drained from the berries. Bring up to simmering point and reduce again. Return strawberries to the syrup. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
A spreading jam which is best made with firm small berries.
Yield: 5-6 jars
900g (2lb) small strawberries, hulled
1kg (2lb 4oz) preserving sugar with pectin
2 tablespoon lemon juice
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put the strawberries in a preserving pan with the sugar and lemon juice. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil until setting point is reached (see p181 for test). Remove the pan from the heat and remove any scum with a slotted spoon. Leave to stand for 15 minutes. Stir to distribute the fruit. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Start with the first local strawberries, adding a variety of berries as they ripen during the summer. This pot can be stored – and consumed – throughout the winter.
250g (9oz) strawberries, washed and hulled
250g (9oz) granulated sugar
1 bottle, dark rum
Use a large-lidded stoneware pot about 4-5L (8-10pt) capacity. Smaller will do, but this gives less scope for adding.
STARTING THE POT: Put the strawberries into the pot, cover with sugar, stir well and leave for half an hour. Add enough rum to just cover. Stir the fruit. Stir regularly every two to three days, for about a week.
TO CONTINUE ADDING: Add about 250g (9oz) of fruit at a time. Suitable soft fruit includes: cherries, redcurrants, blackcurrants, brambles, blueberries, blaeberries, raspberries, plums or apricots. Add about 2 tablespoons of sugar each time a new batch of fruit is added and enough rum to keep the fruit well covered. While new fruit is being added, stir every two to three days for a week. When no fruit is being added, give it a stir every two to three weeks.
AT THE END OF OCTOBER: It is better to leave the fruit to mature, at least till the end of October, though it can be used sooner. Serve with ice cream, whipped cream, with sponge cakes, with meringues, instead of jam in a trifle or on its own in a tall chilled glass.
Cook’s Tip: Best results are with fruit that is slightly under-ripe. Over-ripe fruit has less pectin and will not set so well.
Yield: 4-5 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) brambles
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons water
Knob of butter
1kg (2lb 4oz) preserving sugar with pectin
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put the brambles in a preserving pan with the lemon juice and water. Bring to a slow simmer and cook until the berries are soft and slightly reduced, stirring occasionally. Add the butter and sugar and stir until dissolved. Bring to the boil and simmer until setting point is reached. (see p181 for test). Remove scum with a slotted spoon. Pot heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Cook’s Tip: Best results are with fruit that is slightly under-ripe. Over-ripe fruit has less pectin and will not set so well.
Yield: 3-4 jars
1.8kg (4lb) brambles, slightly under-ripe
2 lemons, juice of
425ml (15fl oz) water
350g (12oz) preserving sugar with pectin to every 600ml (1pt) juice
Heat jars.
PREPARING JUICE: Place the brambles, lemon juice and water into a preserving pan and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes till the fruit is very soft. Put the pulp into a jelly bag and leave to drip for at least 12 hours.
MAKING JELLY: Measure the extracted juice and add sugar required for every 600ml (1pt) juice. Put into a preserving pan and bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Boil rapidly until setting point is reached (see p181 for test). When set, take off the pan and remove any scum with a slotted spoon. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Yield: 7 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) blackcurrants
450g (1lb) cooking apples
Water
1.6kg (3lb 8oz) sugar
Heat jars.
MAKING: De-stalk currants by pulling the stems through the prongs of a fork. Pick over. Put in a preserving pan with just enough water to cover. Heat gently and simmer until the fruit is soft. Peel, core and slice the apples and place them in another pan. Add enough water to prevent burning and cook until soft, stirring occasionally. The blackcurrants will take longer to cook. When both are soft, mix them together. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve over a medium heat. Bring to the boil, and simmer until setting point is reached (see p181 for test). Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes. Stir. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Yield: 6-7 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) blackcurrants
800ml (1pt 7fl oz) water
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) sugar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Remove the currants from their stems. This can be done by pulling the stem through the prongs of a fork. Pick over and wash, then place berries in the pan. Add water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the berries are soft. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Bring to the boil and boil until setting point (see p181 for test). Remove from the heat and leave to settle for 10 minutes. Stir. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Cook’s Tip: Cracking open plum stones may sound like a bit of a fiddle, but the kernels inside do give the jam a special flavour.
Yield: 3 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) under-ripe plums, preferably Victoria plums
900g (2lb) sugar
Heat jars.
PREPARING: Wash the plums, cut them in half and remove the stones. Tie half of the stones in a muslin bag and crack open the remainder to extract the kernels. This can be done by wrapping in a teatowel and cracking open with a hammer. Put the plums and sugar into a bowl in layers. Leave overnight.
MAKING: Put the plums and sugar into a preserving pan, add the muslin bag of stones and bring up to the boil stirring well to dissolve the sugar. Boil until a set is obtained. Add kernels and remove the bag of stones. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Cook’s Tip: The amount of ginger can be doubled.
Yield: 4-5 jars
1.3kg (3lb) mature rhubarb
1kg (2lb 4oz) sugar
175g (6oz) preserved ginger, finely chopped
2 lemons, grated zest and juice of
Heat jars.
PREPARING FRUIT: Wash rhubarb and cut into 2cm (1 inch) pieces. Put into a bowl in layers with sugar and leave for 24 hours. Stir occasionally. The sugar will have mostly dissolved into a syrup.
MAKING THE JAM: Pour the liquid from the bowl into a preserving pan and add the ginger and sugar. Bring to the boil. Dissolve the sugar and boil for about half an hour, stirring occasionally. Add the rhubarb, lemon juice and zest and return to the boil. Simmer until it sets. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10 -15 minutes. Stir. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Flowery aromas of the elderberry provide an intriguing combination with gooseberries.
Yield: 6 jars
1kg (2lb 4oz) gooseberries
450ml (16fl oz) water
1.3kg (3lb) sugar
Knob of butter
6 large elderflower heads, fully opened
Heat jars.
MAKING: Wash, top and tail the gooseberries. Put the gooseberries in the pan with the water and bring to the boil. Simmer until soft, stirring and mashing the fruit to a pulp. Add the sugar and butter, stir well to dissolve and bring to the boil. Using a rubber glove to protect your hand from popping jam, hold the elderflowers in a bunch with the heads down and swirl them in the jam for a few minutes. Some small flowers may come off but this adds character to the jam. Continue to boil to setting point (see p181 for test). Remove from the heat and leave to settle for 10-15 minutes. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
With its sharp, astringent tang this is an indispensable accompaniment to roasts of venison and game birds. For a more intense flavour, substitute some of the apples for more rowans.
Yield: 3-4 pots
1kg (2lb) slightly under-ripe rowan berries
1kg (2lb) unpeeled cooking apples
Heat jars.
MAKING JUICE: Chop apples roughly and remove stalks from berries. Put both into a pan with just enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Simmer the fruit till soft and put into a preserving bag or muslin to drip overnight.
MAKING JELLY: Measure the juice and add 500g (1lb 2oz) of sugar to every 600ml (1pt) liquid. Put it into the pan and bring to the boil, simmer till set (see p181 for test). Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Yield: 5-6 jars
1.4kg (3lb) redcurrants
600g (1pt) water
500g (1lb 2oz) sugar to every 600ml (1pt) juice
45ml (3 tablespoons) port
Heat jars.
MAKING JUICE: Place the currants in a preserving pan with the water and simmer gently until the fruit is soft and pulpy, stirring from time to time. Put into a jelly bag or into a muslin square and leave to drip overnight. Discard pulp.
MAKING JELLY: Measure juice and add 500g (1lb 2oz) of sugar to every 600ml (1pt) in the preserving pan. Boil up juice and sugar, stirring to dissolve and continue to boil rapidly until setting point is reached (see p181 for test). Remove from the heat and leave to settle for 10-15 minutes. Add port. Pot in heated jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Yield: 4-5 jars
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) cooking apples, peeled and cored
Water to cover
500g (1lb 2oz) sugar to every 600ml (1pt) juice
125g (4oz) mint, roughly chopped and tied in a muslin bag
2 sticks cinnamon
Heat jars.
MAKING JUICE: Chop cooking apples and put them in a pan. Just cover with water and cook till soft and pulpy. Pour into a jelly bag or muslin and drip overnight without squeezing.
MAKING JELLY: Measure juice and weigh out 500g (1lb 2oz) of sugar to every 600ml (1pt) liquid. Put both into the pan and stir over a low heat till the sugar is dissolved. Add mint tied in a muslin bag. Bring to the boil and simmer till set. Remove from the heat and allow to stand for about five minutes. Add 1 or 2 whole mint leaves and/or a small piece of cinnamon to each of the pots once they have cooled. Seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as they are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
As well as being a piquant spread for scones, pancakes and crumpets, this is a useful filling for small and large tarts. Mixed with some double cream it is also a good filling for a Vanilla Butter Sponge (see p138).
Yield: To fill a 25cm (9½ inch) baked pastry flan ring or 2 jars.
6 lemons, zest and juice
225g (8oz) caster sugar
8 eggs, beaten
175g (6oz) unsalted butter
TO MAKE IN A DOUBLE BOILER: Put the lemons, sugar and eggs into a double boiler or in a large heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Whisk well to mix thoroughly and dissolve the sugar. Add the butter. Cook, stirring occasionally until it thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat.
TO MAKE IN THE MICROWAVE: Put the butter and sugar in a bowl in the microwave and cook uncovered until the butter has melted. Add the lemon juice and zest and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the eggs and whisk everything together. Return to the microwave and continue to cook, taking it out every 60 seconds to give it a whisk and check on its thickness. It should coat the back of a spoon when ready.
STORING: Strain, pot and cover when cold. Store in a cool place. Use as required. Will keep for two to three weeks.
This is a lengthy process but not an arduous one.
Cook’s Tip: Only use fruit or peel of the best quality and therefore the best flavour.
500g (1lb 2oz) ripe fruit (plums, apples, pears, cherries) or orange and lemon peel
300ml (10fl oz) cooking liquid
600g (1lb 5oz) granulated sugar
PREPARING FRUIT: Plums should be pricked all over, cherries stoned and apples and pears peeled and halved or cut into quarters. Orange and lemon peel should be cut into quarters. Place fruit or peel in a pan and just cover with water. Cook gently till tender. Drain. Measure 300ml (10fl oz) of the cooking liquid and add 175g (6oz) of the granulated sugar. Put into the pan and bring to the boil, dissolving the sugar and boiling for a few minutes. Pour the syrup over the fruit/peel and leave covered for 24 hours.
CANDYING PROCESS: Drain off the syrup and add 50g (2oz) sugar. Put into a pan and bring to the boil, dissolving the sugar. Pour over the fruit and leave for another 24 hours. Repeat this process 6 times. On the seventh day, add 75g (3oz) sugar and leave to soak for 48 hours. Repeat again with 75g (3oz) pour over fruit/peel and leave for four days.
FINISHING: Remove fruit/peel from the syrup and put in a warm place for two to three days, turning occasionally to dry off the fruit. Pack in an airtight container between layers of greaseproof paper. For a sugary finish, dip quickly into boiling water, drain and roll in caster sugar.
Cooks Tips: All fresh fruit and vegetables must be free from mould and blemishes. If any vinegar is included in the recipe it is important not to use metal lids which will corrode.
650g (1½ lb) cooking apples, peeled, cored and grated
1.4kg (3lb) green tomatoes, thinly sliced
500g (1lb 2oz) onions, peeled and grated
500g (1lb 2oz) sultanas
1 head of celery, diced
2 teaspoon sea or rock salt
350g (12oz) Demerara sugar
2 teaspoons mustard powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
700ml (1pt 3fl oz) apple cider vinegar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put all of the ingredients into the pan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat. Simmer gently for about two hours until the mixture is reduced to a thick consistency with no excess liquid. Stir regularly to check for burning.
POTTING: Spoon the chutney into sterilised jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as the pots are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
This kind of chutney was the precursor of commercial tomato ketchup-essential lubrication for fish and chips.
Yield: 10-12 jars
1.5kg (3lb) red tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
1.5kg (3lb) cooking apples, peeled and chopped
225g (8oz) onions, chopped
25g (1oz) pickling spice, tied in muslin bag
25g (1oz) mustard powder
25g (1oz) sea or rock salt
300ml (10fl oz) cider vinegar
250g (9oz) sultanas
350g (12oz) light brown sugar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put all of the ingredients into the pan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat. Simmer gently for about two hours until the mixture is reduced to a thick consistency with no excess liquid. Stir regularly to check for burning.
POTTING: Spoon the chutney into sterilised jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as the pots are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Yield: 12-15 jars
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) cooking apples, peeled, cored and grated
1kg (2lb 4oz) onions, peeled and blended in blender till fine
1.5kg (3lb 5oz) red or green tomatoes, chopped
1kg (2lb 4oz) sultanas
1kg (2lb 4oz) dates, chopped or raisins
1kg (2lb 4oz) soft dark brown sugar
200g (7oz) fresh ginger, grated
1 teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon sea or rock salt
50g (2oz) pickling spice, tied in muslin bag
700ml (1pt 3fl oz) apple cider vinegar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put all of the ingredients into the pan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat. Simmer gently for about two hours until the mixture is reduced to a thick consistency with no excess liquid. Stir regularly to check for burning.
POTTING: Remove the bag of pickling spice, spoon the chutney into sterilised jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as the pots are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
A highly-spiced chutney, best stored for at least six months to allow the flavours to mature. After two years the flavours grow and mellow with unique results.
Yield: 6-8 jars
1½ kg (3lb) stoned plums
2 medium onions, chopped
2 medium apples, chopped
4 tablespoons ground ginger
4 tablespoons cinnamon
4 tablespoons allspice
1½ tablespoons salt
600ml (1pt) cider vinegar
375g (13oz) sugar
Heat jars.
MAKING: Put the plums, onions, apples, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, salt and vinegar into a pan and cook gently, stirring regularly, for half an hour. Add the sugar and simmer to the consistency of thick jam. Stir regularly to check for burning.
POTTING: Spoon the chutney into sterilised jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as the pots are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
Plump raisins are cooked slowly in tomatoes blended with cinnamon and cloves. Good with cold meats and game as well as mature hard cheeses.
Yield: 5-6 jars
50g (2oz) butter
500g (1lb 2oz) seedless raisins
2 × 200g tin chopped tomatoes
300ml (10fl oz) water
4 whole cloves
2 sticks cinnamon bark
2 teaspoon salt
1-2 teaspoon ground black pepper or to taste
150g (5½oz) brown sugar
100ml (3½fl oz) cider vinegar
MAKING: Melt the butter in a large, wide pan and add the raisins. Toss the raisins in the butter for a few minutes, then add tomatoes, water, cloves, cinnamon, salt and black pepper. Cook uncovered for about one hour, stirring occasionally, till very thick. Add the sugar and cider vinegar, mix through and simmer for a few minutes. Taste for flavour. Remove cinnamon.
POTTING: Spoon the chutney into sterilised jars and seal surface with a waxed disc as soon as the pots are filled. Then allow to cool before covering with a lid or cellophane cover. Label and store in a cool, dry place.
This recipe makes a creamy mustard – rich and glossy with a faint sweetness-which also keeps very well.
Cook’s Tip: Use either a non-brewed condiment or acetic acid from the chemist. Vinegar is too sharp.
Yield: 2 pots
1 × 125g (4½ oz) tin Coleman’s mustard
250g (9oz) caster sugar
225ml (8fl oz) double cream
2 eggs
½ teaspoon potato flour
1 tablespoon non-brewed condiment or acetic acid
MAKING: Empty the contents of the mustard tin into a pan. Then fill up the tin with sugar (250g), empty into pan and then fill with cream (225ml) and add to pan. Add the eggs, mix in the potato flour and cook gently till it thickens. This can be done in a double boiler. When cold, stir in non-brewed condiment or acetic acid and pour into pots. Cover and seal. Store in a cool place.
Yield: 2 pots
125g (4½ oz) mixture of black and white mustard seeds
Water
Cider vinegar
Salt
Flavourings – green peppercorns, chillies, tarragon, horseradish, honey, sesame
seeds
MAKING: Grind the mustard in a coffee grinder or in a pestle and mortar according to the coarseness required. Put into a stoneware crock with a lid and add half water half cider vinegar to just cover. Add salt and flavourings. Stir well, cover and leave for a week at room temperature stirring regularly. Drain off excess liquid and pack into sterilised jars. Seal and store for at least six months before use.
This is often made with vinegar, but toning down the fiery root with bland cream or crème fraiche makes for a less harsh result.
Cook’s Tip: Horseradish, like onions, makes eyes water. It can be soaked in cold water before grating which reduces the effect a little.
Yield: 1-2 pots
75g (3oz) piece of fresh horseradish root, peeled
½ lemon, juice of
300ml (10fl oz) crème fraiche
Sea salt and ground pepper
MAKING: Grate the horseradish finely. Sprinkle with lemon juice to prevent discolouring. Mix with crème fraiche and season to taste. Store in a jar in the fridge and use as required.
This lively relish (packed with vitamins) goes with almost anything, from cold meats to cooked vegetables or hard boiled eggs. It can also be thinned down with olive oil and used to dress a salad.
Cook’s Tip: If using a food processor to blend, it’s important to leave some texture and avoid puré;eing to a pulp.
Yield: 1-2 pots
125g (4oz) flat leafed parsley
125g (4oz) tender leaves of curly kail (English spelling: kale)
50g (2oz) fresh mint, chopped
2 tablespoons capers
4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
300ml (10fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and ground black pepper
MAKING: Wash and chop the parsley, kail and mint very finely. Add capers and garlic and put into a bowl with olive oil. Mix well and season. Or put everything into a food processor and blend until finely chopped. Serve with all meats, roasted, boiled or cold as well as vegetables and fish. Store in a jar in the fridge. It will keep for about two weeks.
An old recipe that has now found its way into the modern chef’s repertoire. A useful sharp partner for fatty meats such as duck and goose. It’s also used in salad dressings though it was originally added to water as a refreshing drink.
Cook’s Tip: Do not squeeze the jelly bag or the vinegar will go cloudy.
Yield: 600ml (1pt)
500g (1lb) raspberries
600ml (1pt) white wine vinegar
350g (12oz) granulated sugar to every 600ml (1pt) juice
MAKING: Put the raspberries into a bowl and cover with vinegar. Cover and leave for 48 hours. Strain the liquid through a jelly bag or muslin. Measure the juice and add sugar accordingly. Place in a pan and boil for about 10 minutes till the sugar is dissolved. Cool. Pour into bottles, seal and store in a cool, dark place. It is ready to use immediately and will keep for up to a year.
The flavour of this vinegar is entirely dependent on the slow mellowing of the many spices and flavourings, preferably in the summer sun.
4L (7pt) white wine vinegar
150g (5oz) black mustard seeds
50g (2oz) fresh ginger root
75g (3oz) whole allspice
15g (½ oz) cloves
50g (2oz) black peppercorns
15g (½ oz) celery seeds
750g (1½ lb) brown sugar
40g (1½ oz) grated horseradish
1 head garlic
1½ lemon, sliced
MAKING: Combine all of the ingredients in a large glass jar and leave in the sun all summer or for at least four months. Strain and use with vegetables or in salad dressings.
Classic accompaniment to fish ’n’ chips, though equally good with an extra mature cheddar.
Cook’s Tips: To avoid streaming eyes, drop the onions into boiling water for a minute. Remove, drain and put into a basin of cold water. Remove skins under cold water with a sharp vegetable knife. Take as little from the base and crown as possible.
1kg (2lb 4oz) pickling onions
50g (2oz) sea salt (for crisp pickle onions)
Or
100g (4oz) sea salt to 1L (1pt 15fl oz) water (for softer pickled onions)
Spiced vinegar:
1.2L (2pt) white wine vinegar
A few blades of mace
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 tablespoon whole allspice
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon whole cloves
25g (1oz) sugar
Bay leaves
Whole red chillies
SALTING ONIONS: For a crisp pickle put the onions into a bowl in layers with the sea salt. Cover and leave overnight. For a softer onion, make a brine solution by dissolving the salt in water. Add the onions and leave overnight.
POTTING: Remove the onions from the salt. Wash and dry thoroughly. Pack firmly into sterile jars with non-metal lids. Make the vinegar by boiling with the mace, cloves, allspice, peppercorns and cinnamon for a few minutes. Add the sugar and dissolve. For a stronger flavour leave the spices in the vinegar. Alternatively, leave the vinegar to cool, infusing with the spices and then strain. Use hot vinegar for a softer finished onion, or leave to cool for a crisper onion. Add bay leaves and chillies to the jars. Cover with non-metal lids and store for at least a month before using.
Another classic accompaniment to fish ’n’ chips.
16 hardboiled eggs
Whole red chillies
Spiced vinegar:
1.2L (2pt) white wine vinegar
A few blades of mace
1 teaspoon cloves
25g (1oz) sugar
MAKING: Remove the shells from the eggs and place in a wide-necked jar with chillies to taste. Boil the vinegar, mace and cloves for about five minutes, add sugar and dissolve. Leave to cool and infuse for two hours. Strain and pour over the eggs. Cover with a non-metal lid and store for three weeks before use. Use within one to two months.
There are overtones of mulled wine in this deep crimson preserve that enlivens both cold meats and roasts, particularly game.
600ml (1pt) full-bodied red wine
150g (5oz) sugar
2 × 10cm (4 inch) sticks cinnamon
1kg (2lb 4oz) ripe damsons
MAKING: Dissolve the sugar in the wine, add the cinnamon and bring to the boil for one minute. Add damsons and simmer for two to three minutes or until they are just soft. Pack into jars and pour over syrup.