Rock climbing has a relatively long and storied history in the state of Oregon. In 1983 Alan Watts introduced sport climbing to the United States at Smith Rock. To this day, Smith Rock remains a premier rock climbing destination and a pilgrimage for many. Even though Smith Rock might be a bit too far away to be considered an adventure near Portland, climbers need not worry; there’s enough quality climbing here to entertain and challenge enthusiasts of every level. The same volcanic flows that helped form the rest of the region’s lauded outdoor recreation are also responsible for the numerous basalt cliffs that are a magnet to climbers. This chapter covers three of the area’s premier spots: Broughton Bluffs, Beacon Rock, and the Ozone Wall.
Recommended Climbing Shops and Guide Services
Portland Rock Gym (portlandrockgym.com/guiding/) offers private guided climbs from experienced AMGA, SPI guides. Half-day and full-day options are available. Portland Rock Gym also offers introductory rock climbing classes in the gym and at local crags (portlandrockgym.com/learntoclimb/).
Climb Max Mountaineering (climbmaxmountaineering.com). Over twenty-five years of industry experience and a singular focus on climbing make Climb Max Mountaineering the spot for climbing equipment and repairs in Portland.
Next Adventure (nextadventure.net/climbing/). Detecting a theme here? Next Adventure does it all, and they do it all well. That includes everything you need for climbing.
Rating: 5.7–5.13
Climb type: Traditional and sport
Land manager: Lewis and Clark State Recreation Site; oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_parkPage&parkId=116
Fees and permits: None
Maps and guidebooks: Oregon Road & Recreation Atlas: Page 107 D9. Portland Rock Climbs and Northwest Oregon Rock cover the area.
Getting there: From Portland, take I-84 East to exit 18. Drive south a short distance to the Lewis and Clark State Recreation Site, on your left. From the parking area, walk south along a gravel path to the base of the bluff. Follow a bootpath onto the south slope to the Hanging Gardens Wall. The trail to the right quickly leads to the Red Wall; the left-hand path heads to the base of the Hanging Gardens Wall and on to the North Face.
The Climb
Perhaps the best legitimate climbing within close proximity of downtown Portland, the Broughton Bluffs sit on the eastern shore of the Sandy River near the mouth of the Columbia River Gorge. One of the area’s favorite local crags, Broughton provides a variety of challenges for nearly every skill set.
Broughton Bluffs offer a little something for everybody on a series of 160-foot cliffs within the Lewis and Clark State Recreation Site. Broughton is good year-round but best in summer and fall; with everywhere else around here, it can be a little wet and slick during the rainy season.
Difficulty ranges from 5.7 to 5.13. The easiest route is the Hobbit Hole (5.7, traditional) on the Hanging Gardens. Fun and unique, the Hobbit Hole takes off from the first pitch on Hanging Gardens and worms up through a detached dihedral. This is the toughest spot of the climb, thanks in part to the lack of visibility. Climb your way through the darkness and into the light. Another favorite, Bad Omen (5.12b, sport; 1 pitch, 65 feet), ascends the Bat Wall. There are two cruxes here, and more than one spot that requires a bit of thought and planning. Gorilla Love Affair (5.10d, sport) on the Jungle Cliff is another classic climb. A technical ascent that provides a few rests along the way, it’s difficult. But it’s arguably one of the most engaging and outright fun climbs the bluffs have to offer.
BORING VOLCANIC FIELD
The Boring Volcanic Field is named for the community of Boring, Oregon, roughly 12 miles southeast of Portland. The area is dotted with low volcanic shields, or monogenetic volcanoes. Rising as high as 650 feet, these buttes were formed during single eruptive events. More than eighty small volcanic vents and associated lava flows dispersed throughout the Portland metropolitan area.
At about 57,000 years old, Beacon Rock is the youngest volcano in the Boring Volcanic Field. Today, all that is left of the cone is the central plug; the rest was scoured away by the Missoula Floods. All existing Boring volcanic centers are extinct, but the Boring Volcanic Field might not be. Since activity started 2.6 million years ago, it is unusual that 50,000 years have passed without an eruption. The probability of an eruption, however, is quite low. In the interim, feel free to explore the buttes. Many exist now as parks with all the trappings, including hiking trails. Some of the more popular include Powell Butte (adventures 10 and 20) and Mount Tabor.
Most of the rock climbs at Broughton have established belay anchors for rappelling without topping out. If you do top out on either the North Face or the Hanging Gardens Wall and prefer a scrambling descent, there is a third-class ridge crest between the cliffs.
Local Information
Post-climb food and drink: Check out Tad’s Chicken ’n Dumplins, 1325 E Historic Columbia River Hwy., in Troutdale. Right on the banks of the Sandy River off the Old Historic Highway, it is old-school awesome.