Rating: 5.7–5.11d
Climb type: Traditional
Hike: 2.0 miles out and back; 700 feet of elevation gain
Land manager: Washington State Parks, parks.state.wa.us/474/Beacon-Rock
Fees and permits: Discovery Pass or day-use fee
Maps and guidebooks: DeLorme: Washington Atlas & Gazetteer: Page 100 D3. Portland Rock Climbs and Northwest Oregon Rock cover the area.
Getting there: From Portland, cross the Columbia River on either I-5 or I-205 and head east along WA 14. Near milepost 35, park on the right side of the road in the pull-off at the base of Beacon Rock. The hike begins at the west end of the parking area. The climber’s path starts from the east end of the lot.
The Climb
Named by Lewis and Clark in 1805, Beacon Rock is the 848-foot-high monolith that sits on the banks of the Washington side of the Columbia River. Once a volcano, the exterior of Beacon Rock was washed away by the Missoula Floods, leaving only an eroded lava plug. The iconic rock is home to a unique trail, potentially harrowing for those afraid of heights, and some excellent climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.11d. The south face of Beacon Rock has been the home of classic climbs in the Columbia River Gorge since it was first ascended in 1954 by John Ohrenschall and Gene Todd. The northwest face is open year-round, but it’s the south face that has been giving climbers a feel for big wall climbing for decades.
The rock was purchased by Henry Biddle in 1915. Biddle, with the aid of his donkeys, constructed a unique trail to the summit of Beacon Rock. Consisting of dizzying hand-railed bridges, ledges, and switchbacks, the trail was completed in 1918. In the 1930s Beacon Rock was almost blown to bits as part of a US Army Corps of Engineers jetty project. In an attempt to save Henry’s labor of love, the Biddle family offered the rock to the State of Washington in hopes that the area would become a state park. Washington legislators initially showed no interest, until Oregon stepped in to accept the gift. This prompted a change of heart in Washington, and shortly thereafter Beacon Rock State Park was born.
Beacon Rock
AREA GEOLOGY
Some serious geological events contributed to the landscape that outdoor enthusiasts currently enjoy in the Portland area. The Columbia River Gorge was formed by a combination of the longest lava flows and largest floods the world has ever known. Between 10 and 15 million years ago, a series of lava flows poured over the landscape, occasionally making it all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Many of the layer cake–looking levels of flow can be seen in various spots along the Gorge.
At the end of the last ice age, the ice dam that kept Lake Missoula in place breached, unleashing a series of floods as high as 800 feet tall, traveling as fast as 80 miles an hour. The floods scoured out the Gorge, creating many of the waterfalls we see today. In addition to a lot of water, the floods brought topsoil from eastern Washington and chunks of granite encased in ice. The granite boulders, known as erratics, can be found all over the Willamette Valley, including on top of buttes. The floodwaters emptied into the valley. As a result, the topsoil is as deep as 0.5 mile in some places, helping contribute to a growing region some call the nation’s new breadbasket, and making Portland one of the best places on the continent for farm-to-table cuisine as well as wine.
Henry Biddle’s trail to the top of Beacon Rock remains to this day. So in addition to being a great place to climb, there’s the added bonus of being able to take one of the more unusual hikes in the Northwest—a 2.0-mile round-trip, 700-foot elevation gain hike, to be precise. To hike to the top, follow the marked hiking trail around the west side of Beacon Rock. The path starts traditionally enough but fairly quickly transitions into catwalks. Pass through a gate (subject to being locked in hazardous conditions) and continue the 1-mile-long trek to the top. The views are inspiring, and they get better with elevation. There are a couple of nice spots at the top for a snack, but not many. Head back the way you came.
For climbers there are a number of epic climbs to be had, starting with the South East Corner (5.7, traditional; 5 pitches, 600 feet). The most popular climb on the rock, this is a great option for newer climbers getting their toes wet with multi-pitch routes. The Flying Dutchman (5.10b, traditional; 1 pitch, 80 feet) is a straightforward but tough, left-facing dihedral with finger locks and stemming. Windwalker (5.11d, traditional; 1 pitch, 90 feet) requires a face climb on gear to make the ridge and a crux negotiation just before a roof.
There are some things climbers should keep in mind:
Climbing is limited to the south and northwest faces. The south face is open approximately July 15 to January 31 and is typically closed February 1 to July 14. The seasonal closure helps protect peregrine falcon nesting habitat.
The northwest face is open year-round and is located entirely in the forest, starting at a sign to the right of the water spigot at the parking lot and ending where the hiking trail heads back to meet the wall. This area is posted with signs describing where climbing is off-limits. Also, watch out for poison oak.
Local Information
Post-climb/hike food and drink: Check out the Big River Grill, 192 SW 2nd St., or Walking Man Brewing, 240 SW 1st St., just up the road in Stevenson.