Gill Meller
LATIN NAME
Sepia officinalis
SEASONALITY
Cuttles tend to be caught during their spawning period, which peaks April–May. If buying at this time, look for cuttles taken in trap fisheries where measures are taken to conserve the eggs
HABITAT
Northeast Atlantic, mostly southern and western coasts of Britain, the Mediterranean
MCS RATING
Some stocks not assessed; otherwise 3–4
REC MINIMUM SIZE
13cm mantle length
SOURCING
MORE RECIPES
Squid with chervil and blood orange
The first time I saw a live cuttlefish, I found it mesmerising – shimmering sapphire, emerald, ruby and moonstone as it moved. The skin of cuttlefish is able to polarise light, enabling them to instantaneously camouflage themselves against the ground they’re moving over. The first time I ate one of these cephalopods was just as memorable. Cooked slowly with bay, lemon, garlic and tomato, it was fragrant, tender and delicate.
Cuttlefish responds beautifully to slow cooking, but you can also treat it as you would squid flesh, marinating it with a little chilli and fresh coriander then grilling it fiercely and briefly over a barbecue. Or try serving it flash-fried with smoked bacon and rosemary – or pepped up with fragrant ginger, tamari and lime juice.
The cuttlefish catching season begins as they come inshore to breed, in late spring. The Channel is the main area and most are trapped in pots – a very selective method.
Weighing anything from 1–10kg, cuttlefish can appear formidable. When alarmed, they expel a rich dark ink and preparing one is likely to leave you black-fingered. But it’s worth it. First make a 2–3cm incision across the top edge of the cuttle bone, just behind the head. Press on the base of the single, broad flat bone and ease it out through this opening. Slit the thin skin down the length of the back (not the flesh) and peel it back. At either side of the back is a seam, covered by a membrane, that holds the body together. Run your fingers, with some force, under these seams to open up the body and enable you to remove the head and innards. If the silvery pouch of ink is intact, carefully set it aside. Pull off the wings. Use a knife and your fingers to remove as much skin as possible from the body and wings, as well as any fine membrane left clinging to the pearly white flesh. Rubbing with a damp cloth helps with this.
Cut the tentacles away from the head, just in front of the eyes. Separate the tentacles then use a small knife to carefully cut away the skin and suckers that cover them. Wash the cuttle pieces under a cold tap then pat dry. Body, wings and tentacles are all good to eat – but the wings are best slow-cooked, or they can be tough.
CUTTLEFISH WITH FENNEL AND WHITE BEANS
This aromatic dish is great served in small portions as a starter, or as part of a tapas spread. Alternatively, serve it in generous bowlfuls, with a hunk of bread. Serves 6–8
1–1.5kg cleaned cuttlefish, with tentacles
750g ripe tomatoes, or a 400g tin plum tomatoes
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed
3–4 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
1 large onion, finely sliced
2 large garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2–3 strips of finely pared lemon zest
A glass of red wine
500ml fish or veg stock
400g tin cannellini beans
Juice of ½ lemon
Extra virgin olive oil, to finish
Sea salt and black pepper
Cut the cuttlefish into 1cm thick strips. If using fresh tomatoes, skin them (see Preparing fresh tomatoes), then deseed and roughly chop; set aside. Thickly slice the fennel.
Place a large saucepan over a medium-high heat and add 2 tbsp oil. When hot, add the fennel and onion. Cook, stirring regularly, for 8–10 minutes. Add the garlic, bay and lemon zest, cook for 1–2 minutes then add the tomatoes – if you are using tinned ones, crush them first in your hands. Add the wine and stock and bring to a gentle simmer.
Meanwhile, heat a large non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add a little more oil, followed by a couple of handfuls of the cuttlefish and some salt and pepper. Cook, tossing regularly, for 2–3 minutes or until beginning to caramelise. Transfer the cuttlefish to the sauce and repeat the browning process with the remaining cuttlefish, making sure you don’t crowd the pan.
Cover and simmer gently for 1–1½ hours or until the cuttlefish is tender, topping up with a little hot stock or water if necessary. Drain the cannellini beans and add them to the pan about 20 minutes before the end of cooking.
Before serving, taste and add more salt and pepper, if needed. Finish with a generous squeeze of lemon juice and a good trickle of your finest olive oil.