Steven Lamb
LATIN NAME
Numidia meleagris (most commonly farmed species)
MORE RECIPES
Paella; Tea-brined chicken; Pheasant with olives and preserved lemons; Poached pheasant with star anise
MORE RECIPES
wildmeat.co.uk; woolleyparkfarm.co.uk
The name ‘guinea fowl’ evokes this bird’s original status as game, a wild creature of the jungle. But rather than being hunted down, guinea fowl are mostly now bred for the table. Native to the West African coast, they also do well in our climate, and free-range British birds are increasingly available online and in some supermarkets, butchers and farmers’ markets. Guinea fowl are available all year round.
The guinea fowl has a distinctive white face and red wattles and sports a natty, polka-dot plumage, its grey, black and purple feathers peppered with white spots. In silhouette the shape is reminiscent of a partridge (though bigger), a bird with which it shares other similarities, such as being a ground nester.
In terms of flavour and texture, the creamy white meat is not dissimilar to that of lean chicken, and guinea fowl can be used as an alternative to chicken in almost any recipe. However, it is much more than a mere substitute for our most popular poultry, occupying a niche a little closer to that of the game birds. It’s lower in fat than chicken and, if hung for a few days after slaughter (as many producers do), it develops a hint of gamey flavour – less assertive than that found in actual game birds, but still present.
Guinea fowl is suitable for braising and casseroles, but it is perhaps best simply roasted – as long as you remember that it is prone to dryness if cooked too hot or too long. I follow the basic times and temperatures for a small roast chicken – giving it an initial hot blast at a high temperature, followed by a more moderate roast – but protect and enhance the super-lean breast meat by barding it with pancetta or bacon.
Guinea fowl tend to make it to the table 10–15 weeks after hatching, at 1.2–1.5kg, which is enough to serve 4 people. As well as size, feeling the breastbone helps to assess age; this is soft in a young bird and much harder in an old one. Also the scales on the feet (if still attached) are coarser and more prominent on an older bird.
ROAST GUINEA FOWL WITH ONIONS AND SAGE BREADCRUMBS
Jointing the guinea fowl (as for chicken) and giving the breasts less time in the oven helps to avoid overcooking. Serves 2–4 depending on the size of the bird
4 large onions (red or yellow), peeled and cut into 8 wedges
3 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
1 free-range guinea fowl, jointed into 6 portions (drumsticks, thighs, breasts)
200ml white wine
150ml chicken (or guinea fowl) stock
8 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
8 bay leaves
3 tbsp chopped sage
25g butter
100g coarse breadcrumbs
Sea salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3.
Place the onions in a large roasting tin with 2 tbsp of the oil. Season well with salt and pepper and toss together. Cook in the oven for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Season the guinea fowl drumsticks and thighs and brown them all over in the hot pan, then set aside on a plate. Deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping to release any meaty residues. Let the wine simmer until reduced by half, then add the stock and bring to the boil.
Take the roasting tin from the oven and add the drumsticks and thighs. Add the garlic, bay, half the sage and the boiling stock. Give the tin a shake to mingle the ingredients, then return to the oven for 45 minutes, turning and stirring everything once or twice.
When the time is nearly up, return the frying pan to a medium heat. Add a trickle more oil and brown the guinea fowl breasts; remove and set aside. Add the butter to the frying pan. Once melted, add the breadcrumbs and remaining sage and stir to coat in the butter.
Take the roasting tin of meat and onions from the oven and add the guinea fowl breasts to it. Scatter the buttery crumbs over the guinea fowl and onions and return to the oven for 20–25 minutes or until the breasts are cooked through and the crumbs are golden.
Let rest for 10 minutes before serving, with mash and cabbage, or rice and wilted chard.