Gill Meller
LATIN NAME
Mullus surmuletus
ALSO KNOWN AS
Striped red mullet, goatfish
SEASONALITY
Avoid May–July when spawning
HABITAT
Found worldwide in warm waters and as far north as the British Isles
MCS RATING
3–4
REC MINIMUM SIZE
16cm
MORE RECIPES
Hot mackerel, beetroot and horseradish sandwich; Garfish with olives, oregano and garlic; Black bream with Jerusalem artichoke purée
SOURCING
The red mullet is a beautiful fish: with its vivid pinks and reds, it looks almost tropical. And it is, in fact, a member of the warm-water goatfish family that long ago strayed north to swim in the Mediterranean and European Atlantic. The Ancient Romans made a cult out of the colour, keeping the fish alive until the very last minute, because the red starts to fade once it dies. Rod-and-line caught mullet still get a higher price than those that die in a net because they have a brighter hue.
Red mullet is a fish we should eat with a little caution. There is concern over fishing pressure in several areas and large numbers of juvenile red mullet are often caught – avoid any smaller than 16cm. However, a fat red mullet is a welcome, though pricey, addition to any table. Most are caught off the south and southwest coast, with a few finding their way as far north as Scotland. They are best eaten in the late summer and early autumn, avoiding the spawning season of May to July.
The well-flavoured, firm, slightly creamy-coloured flesh of red mullet puts it somewhere between a white fish and an oily one. The tradition is to cook mullet whole (a 350–500g fish is great for one portion) with the guts intact, or at least with the liver still inside, giving a slightly gamey flavour to the flesh. In fact, it is sometimes called ‘the woodcock of the sea’, as the game bird is cooked with its guts in too (see Woodcock).
I like to gut a red mullet but keep in the liver or cook it separately, perhaps with garlic, green olives, anchovies and wine, then spread it over the skin of the fried fish.
Red mullet has large scales that should be removed, taking care not to tear the skin, which has a deserved reputation for tastiness. The whole fish is lovely grilled, barbecued or roasted and works equally well with a salsa (try grapefruit, red onion and coriander) or a creamy sauce flavoured with bacon and green peppercorns. Fillets are also fantastic in a classic bouillabaisse.
RED MULLET WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER MAYO
This is fabulous with a fragrant salad of tomatoes and olives. You can happily give the same treatment to gurnard or bream. Serves 2
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
50g white breadcrumbs
4 red mullet fillets
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
Sea salt and black pepper
FOR THE RED PEPPER MAYO
1 medium red pepper
4–5 tbsp good quality mayonnaise
2 tbsp raisins
For the red pepper mayo, preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7 (or the grill to high). Put the pepper on a greased baking sheet and roast for about 30 minutes, turning once, or until soft, wrinkled and blackened in places. (Or blister the pepper under a hot grill, turning more often.)
Meanwhile, toast the cumin, coriander and fennel seeds in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes, until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, bash the toasted seeds together with the chilli flakes until coarsely ground. Tip into a shallow dish and combine with the breadcrumbs and some salt and pepper.
Put the roasted pepper into a bowl, cover with cling film and leave for 30 minutes; this will help lift the skin. Peel, halve and deseed the pepper, discarding any white pith and juice. Chop the flesh fairly finely. When cooled completely, combine the red pepper with the mayonnaise and raisins. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
Press the fish fillets into the spiced breadcrumbs, patting them on to the flesh (they won’t stick so readily to the skin, but don’t worry about this).
Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan over a medium heat. Add the red mullet fillets, skin side down, and cook for 2–3 minutes. Carefully flip the fillets over and cook for another minute or two until the flesh is opaque right through. Serve at once, with the red pepper mayo and a salad.
