Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Nigella sativa
ALSO KNOWN AS
Kalonji, black onion seed
MORE RECIPES
Spear-leaved orache bhajis; Crow garlic and nigella naan; Velvet crab curry
This dark and mysterious-looking little seed is also known as kalonji or black onion seed – although, while certainly black, it has nothing to do with onions. The identity crisis of nigella does not end there. It is also called Roman coriander (though it’s not a form of coriander), fennel flower (though it’s not a form of fennel), black sesame (though it’s not a… you get the picture) and black cumin. The latter is the most confusing because another kind of black cumin, actually related to cumin, does exist in its own right (see Cumin). To avoid any confusion, the spice I am talking about is the seed harvested from the spiky pods of the flowering plant Nigella sativa, a native of Southwest Asia and the Middle East, and a member of the buttercup family.
Whatever you call these mini, matt black seeds, there is little doubt that they are serious flavour providers. Widely used in Indian cooking, the taste is sweet (in a treacly kind of way), mildly spicy, slightly smoky and, yes, more than a little oniony. Nigella shines when used as a solo spice: if you have ever kneaded it into bread dough, for naan, perhaps (see Crow Garlic and Nigella Naan) or sprinkled the seeds over rolls before baking, you will know what an abundance of aroma this diminutive seed can impart.
Nigella is also used in spice mixes: I love to include it in a batter mix for bhajis or pakoras, and I often add it to spiced potato dishes and marinades for meat. The striking visual effect of a shower of nigella seeds shouldn’t be underestimated either – try sprinkling them on to sausage rolls or shaking them over a salad for a dramatic and delicious finish.
Nigella is also very much at home in the pickle jar, whether in a hot and fiery lime pickle or a much simpler, quicker mixture created by lightly salting fresh chopped vegetables and then dressing them in a sweetened vinegar. The nigella cuts through all the sugar and acidity and enhances almost any fruit or vegetable.
This creamy, delicately spiced soup can be on the table in less than 20 minutes. Serves 4
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
15g butter
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 small cauliflower (about 500g)
2 tsp nigella (kalonji/black onion) seeds, plus extra to finish
500ml hot veg stock
2 tbsp double cream
Sea salt and black pepper
Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic and sweat for about 10 minutes, until soft. Meanwhile, trim the cauliflower of its outer leaves and remove any dry or tough parts of the stalk. Roughly chop the rest.
Add the chopped cauliflower and nigella seeds to the pan of softened onion and garlic and pour on the stock, which should cover the veg. Put the lid on the pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 10 minutes or until the cauliflower is tender.
Blitz the soup using a blender until smooth and creamy. Reheat it gently in the pan if necessary, season well, stir in the cream and it’s ready to eat.
Serve it scattered with a few more nigella seeds. Alternatively, embellish with some crisp shards of leftover roast meat, or a little chopped coriander and tomato.