Nikki Duffy
LATIN NAME
Myristica fragrans
MORE RECIPES
The name ‘nutmeg’ means, more or less, ‘musky nut’ and it’s easy to see why. This hard, round, brown kernel is about the size of a grape and looks rather like a nut. Its flavour is woody, perfumed, a touch bitter and a little bit fresh – ‘musky’ sums it up quite well. It is subtle but has the capacity to deepen and round out the flavour of a dish. Nutmeg is not prized these days in the same way that cinnamon, vanilla or pepper are, but in the past the nutmeg trade was very lucrative.
Nutmegs are found inside a fleshy fruit, native to Indonesia. The nutmeg itself grows wrapped in a strange orange web, or ‘aril’, which is removed and dried to become mace. This sister spice shares nutmeg’s character, but nutmeg is more pungent, more penetrating, a little more robust. Don’t bother with ready-ground nutmeg; instead buy the whole ‘nuts’ and invest in a good, sharp, fine grater. Release the nutmeg scent, as and when you need it, by rubbing it over the grater to create a fine fall of fragrant nutmeg dust. The part-grated nutmeg can then be put back into its jar for later use.
As you grate a nutmeg, you will reveal its curious cross-section, the main, café-au-lait-coloured flesh marbled with rivulets of a darker hue. These dark veins are the rich tissue that holds the seed’s essential oil, a little more of it revealed and released with each pass of the grater. That hard, tannic flesh holds the essence of the nutmeg locked so tight that the spice keeps incredibly well. They’ll store almost indefinitely, in a cool, dry cupboard.
A delicately bitter, aromatic sprinkling of nutmeg is traditionally valued for the contrast it brings – visually, as well as flavourwise – to milky, eggy things. Custard tarts, béchamel sauces and savoury soufflé mixes all have more depth with a subtle dusting of nutmeg, though you may barely detect the spice itself.
Nutmeg adds complexity to baking and is often used in proprietary mixed spice blends. It lends character to meaty stews, pies and pâtés, and is found in many different kinds of curry. It is also a component of West Indian jerk seasoning. You can use it in veg dishes too: try seasoning cauliflower cheese with a sprinkle of it, or dusting it generously on to a roast pumpkin soup. It’s especially welcome with dark greens such as spinach, kale and chard.
Generally, nutmeg is best added towards the end of cooking, as too much heat can emphasise its tannic bitterness.
This delicately spiced veg dish is delicious alongside almost any meat or fish and is also excellent with curry. Serves 2
200g spinach
2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
1 tsp finely grated root ginger
1 medium-hot red chilli, deseeded and finely diced
½ tsp garam masala
A squeeze of lemon juice
Freshly grated nutmeg
Sea salt and black pepper
Wash the spinach thoroughly and drain. Remove and discard the tough stalks from any larger leaves. Set the spinach leaves aside.
Place a large frying pan or wok over a medium-low heat and add the oil. When hot, toss in the onion and fry gently for about 8 minutes, until almost translucent with little colour. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli and garam masala and fry for a further 2 minutes.
Now add the spinach leaves, along with a squeeze of lemon juice, some salt and pepper and a generous grating of nutmeg. Turn up the heat slightly and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring often, until the spinach is nicely wilted. Taste and add more salt, pepper, lemon and/or nutmeg if needed. Serve straight away.