Nikki Duffy
LATIN NAME
Brassica rapa chinensis
ALSO KNOWN AS
Bok choy
SEASONALITY
March–December
Compact, diminutive pak choi, the choi meaning ‘vegetable’ in Cantonese, is almost two veg in one. Its white or very pale green, shovel-shaped stalks are as crunchy and succulent as a tender bit of celery, while its dark green leafy tops are wonderful wilters. The whole plant is so tender and light that you can cook it in the piece in a few minutes. Or you can slice the stalks and cook them first, then add the shredded leaves for a brief final blast. It may seem all water and crunch but, rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, pak choi packs a real nutritional punch.
Although a member of the cabbage family, pak choi has no sulphurous tang or peppery kick. There’s a hint of mustardy flavour but its personality is mild and ameliorating – which is what makes it complement spicy food so well. It partners hot, spicy, saucy things like nothing else. Drop it, roughly shredded, into a Thai curry or laksa a few minutes before serving; or just serve it, super-simply steamed, alongside sweet-and-sour pork or sticky, spicy, black bean beef.
My favourite way to eat pak choi is just wilted with garlic. Slice the stems thickly and throw them into a very hot wok with a little flavourless coconut oil. Toss over a high heat for 2–3 minutes until glossy and tender, then add the shredded leaves and a finely chopped garlic clove or two (and some chilli flakes if you fancy some heat). Stir-fry for another minute then add a generous splash of soy sauce and take off the heat. Finish with a few drops of toasted sesame oil and serve with rice or noodles.
Young, tender pak choi is also great served raw: sliver it into a slaw with peppers, carrots, spring onions and a fragrant dressing full of ginger, chilli, garlic and soy sauce.
Native to China, pak choi only arrived in the UK towards the end of the last century. But it’s caught on to the extent that it’s now widely grown here and you should be able to get British leaves for most of the year, or easily grow your own. In a sunny spot, it grows fast – you can harvest the baby leaves just a month after sowing.
Tat soi is a related and similarly lovely leaf, with longer, firmer stems that culminate in round, green leaves. Use it in all the same ways.
PAK CHOI WITH STICKY PRUNE SAUCE
This dark rich sauce makes a wonderful contrast to light and delicate pak choi (it also works well with spring greens). Serve as a vegetarian dish with rice and perhaps some stir-fried tofu, or pair it with pork chops. Serves 2
2 pak choi, bases trimmed
FOR THE PRUNE SAUCE
50g pitted prunes, thinly sliced
25ml soy sauce
1 tsp clear honey
Juice of 1 large orange
1 tbsp mirin (Japanese rice wine)
1 star anise
1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
A small pinch of dried chilli flakes
TO SERVE
4 spring onions, finely sliced
A few coriander leaves
Lime wedges
To make the sauce, put all the ingredients into a small saucepan, add 3 tbsp water and place over a medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for 4–5 minutes or until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10–15 minutes, to allow the flavours to develop and the prunes to soften a little.
Halve the pak choi from top to bottom and lay them in a steamer basket over a pan of simmering water (or use an electric steamer). Cover and steam for about 5 minutes until the white part of the stem is just tender. Alternatively, cook the pak choi in a large pan of simmering water for 3 minutes or so, drain well and allow to steam off for a few minutes so there is no residual water on the leaves.
Put the pak choi on a serving plate and spoon over the sticky, spicy prune sauce. Strew with sliced spring onions and coriander leaves and serve with lime wedges.