John Wright
LATIN NAME
Macrolepiota procera. Shaggy parasol: Chlorophyllum rhacodes
SEASONALITY
Summer–autumn
HABITAT
Parasol mushroom: permanent pasture and grassland. Shaggy parasol: woodland
Few fungi are as magnificent as the parasol mushroom, or as easy to spot. While most field fungi nestle in the grass and must be searched out, at 30cm tall and 30cm wide, parasols are visible from two fields away. They also invariably grow in rings, so a find of parasols will feed the family. They are at their most succulent while the creamy white gills are soft and fresh, and the best of all are those that are just opening from their distinctive ‘drumstick’ stage.
The stem is tough and only useful in a clear mushroom stock; it is joined to the cap by a rather neat ball and socket joint and therefore easy to detach. The cap should not be chopped with a knife, but split radially into sections.
Parasols do not tolerate lengthy cooking as they quickly acquire the texture of a damp face flannel. However, they are delicious sautéed. The flavour is part mushroom, part chicken and the texture slightly fibrous, like chicken breast. My favourite way of cooking them is in a light tempura batter. The parasol section melts invitingly inside the crispy coating.
Appearing in summer and autumn, parasols (pictured next) are unmistakeable due to their distinctive size, habitat, scaly cap, swollen stem base and a pronounced, ‘slideable’ ring on the stem. ‘Dapperlings’, which are poisonous, look a bit like parasols, but are much smaller, seldom growing beyond 10cm in diameter.
There is also the shaggy parasol. This is smaller, greyer, with white flesh and gills that bruise orange/red, and grows in woods. Unfortunately a substantial proportion of those who eat it are unwell afterwards. It must always be cooked before eating, though even this does not guarantee a happy outcome.
BAKED PARASOL MUSHROOM WITH BRIE
One generous parasol, baked with a cheesy, bacony topping, feeds two amply as a starter, or makes a fine meal for one. Don’t wash or peel the mushroom; instead use a brush to clean it thoroughly. Serves 1–2
A little olive or rapeseed oil, for cooking
4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, derinded and cut into lardons
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
80g Brie, such as Godminster Organic or Baron Bigod
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
60g fresh breadcrumbs
6 cooked chestnuts, chopped (optional)
1 young, open parasol mushroom, 25–30cm across, stem removed, brushed clean
Sea salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and grease a baking tray.
Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add a trickle of oil, followed by the bacon lardons. Stir until the bacon starts to release its fat then add the onion and garlic. Cook for 8–10 minutes until the onion is softened.
Meanwhile, roughly dice the Brie (including the rind or not, as preferred). Add the parsley, breadcrumbs, chestnuts, if using, and Brie to the pan. Stir until the cheese melts and binds the mixture together.
Put the mushroom gill side up on a board and season with salt and pepper. Spread the hot breadcrumb mixture on top of the mushroom and place on the baking tray. Bake for 8–10 minutes or until a knife inserted into the thickest part of the mushroom passes through easily. Serve straight away, with some bitter leaves.
