Mark Diacono
LATIN NAME
Prunus persica
SEASONALITY
British and European fruit July–September
MORE RECIPES
Pears with ricotta, honey and thyme; Wineberries with peaches and custard; Strawberries with lavender and honey
My first home-grown peach was a delectable harvest. Even now, I can recall its scent, as bright and full as the summer day I ate it on. It is a tricky moment to recreate with shop-bought fruit. You will need to search out the ripest, most aromatic fruits you can find. Summer peaches from Italy are usually the best. With a relatively short distance to travel, they can be picked later and riper than fruits imported at other times of the year from far-flung America, Africa and even Australia, which are often disappointing. You’ll know when you’ve found that peach or nectarine that has been allowed to ripen on its tree: it will smell like a peach! Buy it and all those like it, and enjoy them while swinging in a hammock.
Otherwise, it is perfectly possible to coax maximum loveliness out of peaches and nectarines by swapping the ripening sun for a little kitchen heat. Grilling, roasting or frying with a touch of sugar and (optionally) cinnamon, star anise and/or vanilla, will intensify the flavour and lend a little caramelised texture to their softened flesh. Just like apricots, peaches and nectarines work beautifully with savoury partners – a pizza topped with nectarine quarters, blue cheese and rocket is delicious.
Poaching is another way to persuade firm peaches and nectarines into soft succulence. Stud each fruit half with a clove, put into a pan and just cover with a mix of wine and water (or use all wine, water or cider). Add a split vanilla pod, a strip of lemon zest and a few sprigs of mint, and poach gently until tender. The fruit is best served just-warm with crème fraîche, or cooled then zapped in a blender with a little of the poaching liquor to be diluted 1:3 with fizz for a summer bellini.
If you’re in the South and can find a sunny, sheltered spot in your garden, give peaches or nectarines a go. Dwarf varieties and fan-trained trees suit even the smallest of spaces – a modest harvest will still make you happy. To get them at their best, pick the fruit as near as possible to the point when they would fall of their own accord.
This American-style pud is even easier than a crumble and a perfect way to use slightly less than ambrosial peaches or nectarines. Add a handful of raspberries or blackberries too, for a fruity contrast. Serves 4–6
4 large peaches or nectarines
3–4 tbsp light muscovado sugar, to taste
Seeds scraped from ½ vanilla pod (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)
25g butter, plus extra to grease
FOR THE SLUMP TOPPING
180g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
4 tbsp caster sugar
A pinch of salt
A pinch of ground cinnamon (optional)
80g cold butter, roughly diced
1 medium egg
100ml whole milk
75g wholemilk yoghurt, or 75ml buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Lightly butter an ovenproof dish.
To peel the peaches or nectarines, score a small cross on the base of each one, then lower the fruit into a pan of boiling water. Simmer for up to a minute, until the skins are loosened. Transfer to a bowl of cold water, to cool quickly, then lift out and peel. Halve the fruit, prise out the stones and cut each half into thirds lengthways.
In a bowl, toss together the peaches, muscovado sugar and vanilla. Tip the fruit into the prepared dish and dot with the butter.
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, caster sugar, salt and cinnamon if using, with a balloon whisk. Rub the butter into the flour mixture with your fingertips until it has the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. Whisk together the egg, milk and yoghurt or buttermilk, and stir into the flour, being careful not to over-mix.
Drop spoonfuls of the topping on to the peaches. Try to cover them evenly, but don’t worry about a few gaps – the mixture will expand as it cooks. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the top is golden and the juices are bubbling. To check that the slump topping is cooked, insert a cocktail stick into the middle – it should come out clean. Leave to stand for about 5 minutes before serving.
