John Wright
LATIN NAME
Calvatia gigantea
SEASON
Late summer–autumn
HABITAT
Not common. Found in pasture, nettle beds and sometimes in woodland with rich soil
Like the hedgehog mushroom, the giant puffball is unmistakeable, and like the parasol, it is visible from a quarter of a mile away. Only small sheep or resting white ducks are likely to cause confusion. Appearing in late summer and autumn, giant puffballs should be picked while still young (about 30cm in diameter), decidedly firm and with the skin dry. After this the pure white flesh softens, goes yellow, then slimy green, then dry, brown and dusty. The fungus is not ‘going off’, it is maturing and the ‘dust’ is its spores; leave maturing specimens to their essential reproductive efforts. Even if the field has 30 puffballs in prime condition, do not take more than you can sensibly use as they do not keep well.
Unless you are feeding a crowd, cut the puffball in half, keeping one half in the fridge for another puffball dinner the next day. Peel off the thin skin. The flesh has a texture somewhere between marshmallow and feta cheese.
I am firmly opposed to any giant puffball recipe that involves baking or, worse still, stewing. This fungus is much more suited to the dry environment of the frying pan. As with most fungi, simple cooking is best. To make a giant puffball omelette, cut off thin slices, break them into biscuit-sized pieces and fry on one side in butter until golden. Remove them from the pan, add more butter and let it melt, then return the puffball pieces to the pan and fry the other side before sprinkling with salt and pouring on beaten egg and letting it set.
There are many other species of puffball, all much smaller and none as tasty as the giant puffball. The common puffball (Lycoperdon perlatum) is found in vast numbers in woodland and is the best of these small species as far as the cook is concerned. They reach 3cm in diameter, are white, covered in detachable granules and pestle shaped. The flavour is good, but their drawback is that they are difficult to peel. Of course you don’t have to peel them; if you like eating chamois leather, you can leave the skin on.
OAT-COATED PUFFBALL WITH SAGE AND PANCETTA
For a spicier version of this simple but rather magnificent dish, use small cubes of chorizo instead of the pancetta. You can also replace the sage with a little thyme. Serves 2
1–1½ tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
4 rashers of pancetta or streaky bacon, roughly chopped
1 egg
2 tbsp milk
10–12 sage leaves
100g porridge oats (not jumbo oats)
4–6 slices of giant puffball (about 10cm in diameter and 2cm thick), skin removed
20g butter
Sea salt and black pepper
Place a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tbsp oil, then the pancetta or bacon, and cook until it starts to crisp and has rendered some of its fat. Take the pan off the heat, scoop the pancetta or bacon out, leaving some fat in the pan, and set aside.
Meanwhile, beat the egg with the milk and plenty of salt and pepper. Finely chop half the sage and combine it with the oats.
Return the frying pan to a medium heat and add a dash more oil if needed. Dip the slices of puffball first into the seasoned egg and then into the oats, to coat. Gently shake off the excess, then place the puffball slices in the pan. Cook for 3–4 minutes on each side or until golden, then transfer to warmed plates.
Return the pancetta or bacon to the pan, along with the butter and remaining sage leaves. Cook for 1 minute, or until the butter is bubbling, the pancetta is hot and the sage is fragrant. Spoon this butter over the oaty puffball slices and serve.
