Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Portulaca oleracea
SEASONALITY
June–September
This humble little plant – common purslane to give it its full name – has a natural range that spreads all the way from North Africa to Australia, via India. Although it’s often viewed as a weed, due to its propensity to grow fast and low, it’s been eaten for millennia. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans were very fond of it and we used to eat it in this country too, but it has been rather lost in the clutter of modern cultivation. It is now absent from the table in all but the most horticultural of households, which is a real shame, though we have pinched its name for other, unrelated plants such as sea purslane (Halimione portulacoides) and winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata) because they share its defining characteristics: succulent leaves and an acidic flavour.
Growing your own purslane is easy: it will thrive in even the most neglectful of environments, with the added bonus that as it swiftly covers the ground, it stops other, less tasty weeds getting a foothold. If you don’t grow it yourself, you will probably need to get hold of a local salad grower as it’s not widely available in the shops. But I promise you it’s worth the effort. Its small, shovel-shaped, greyish-green leaves are both succulent and crunchy. The taste mingles acidity and earthiness – somewhere between a salty sorrel and a crisp spinach. In a salad, the leaves offer little pops of natural seasoning, the perfect counterpoint to sweet tomatoes or pungent herbs.
Purslane can be cooked too, though it’s mucilaginous, meaning it holds a glue-like substance in its leaves, which becomes evident when heated. This characteristic is sometimes employed to thicken soups or stews but for me, purslane is best lightly wilted, or kept fresh and raw.
Purslane has surprisingly high levels of omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains malic acid (found in apples), which is partly responsible for its lovely, fruity-sour flavour. Purslane picked in the morning tastes best, when its acid levels are highest. The acid turns to glucose through the day, and the leaf is noticeably less zingy in the afternoon.
NEW POTATO, MACKEREL AND PURSLANE SALAD
Purslane’s slightly sour, fruity flavour is fantastic in salads. It’s a wonderful partner for rich, oily mackerel – although you could use fried herring, or cold, shredded chicken or ham here instead. Serves 4
4 mackerel fillets
A little rapeseed or olive oil
Lemon juice, to taste
500g new potatoes, cooked and cooled
40g purslane leaves
Sea salt and black pepper
FOR THE DRESSING
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp clear honey
1 tsp English mustard
1½ tbsp cider vinegar
4 tbsp extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil
6 spring onions, finely sliced
Season the mackerel fillets with salt and pepper. Heat a thin film of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When it is fairly hot, lay the mackerel fillets in the pan, skin side down. Cook for 2–3 minutes until the fillets are almost completely opaque, then turn them over and cook for a minute only, to finish cooking. Spritz with a little lemon juice, then set aside to cool down.
Meanwhile, to make the dressing, whisk the garlic, honey, mustard, cider vinegar and extra virgin oil together in a bowl to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper, then stir through the sliced spring onions.
Cut the cooked new potatoes into bite-sized pieces and put them into a large bowl. Flake in the flesh from the cooled mackerel, checking for any bones as you go. Add the dressing, and mix everything together gently, adding a trickle more extra virgin oil if you think it needs it.
Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a little more salt or pepper if required. Gently fold the purslane leaves through the salad and it’s ready to serve.