Gill Meller
LATIN NAME
Raphanus sativus
SEASONALITY
April–September
MORE RECIPES
Raw asparagus and radish salad
The radish is one of those garden vegetables that signify a shift in the culinary year. Asparagus arrives, the elderflower comes out and then, after all the browns and greys of winter, there’s the bright red of the radish. But I think lots of people don’t appreciate quite how good these little roots can be, perhaps because those on sale in supermarkets are usually rather dull.
The first rule of radishes is that they should be very fresh: a just-picked, home-grown bunch will be juicy, crunchy and peppery. Keep the fresh roots in a half-full jug of water in the fridge and they will remain crisp, and the edible leaves vibrant, for 4 or 5 days.
The best way to enjoy such tip-top radishes is to take them cold from the fridge and serve them on a plateful of ice. The chill emphasises their bite and offers a satisfying contrast to the peppy, hot flavour (which lies mainly in the skin). Smear the radishes with softened unsalted butter and then dip into good flaky sea salt, or serve with an anchovy and caper sauce, perhaps alongside some other early summer crudités such as slim, raw asparagus and the first baby carrots. Raw and grated, radishes also work well stirred into a raita of yoghurt, with chopped mint and coriander.
Less-than-sparkling radishes are not a disaster, however: cook them in soups and sautés or throw them into Asian-style stir-fries with chilli, garlic, a little lime and coriander and other quick-cook crunchy veg such as sugarsnap peas.
If you plant radish seeds throughout the spring and summer, you’ll have a steady supply of this characterful little root – and they’ll be ready, seed to plate, in just 4 weeks. I even like to use thinned-out radish seedlings as fresh little garnishes. The slightly elongated ‘French Breakfast’ variety is very good, as is ‘Pink Beauty’. Just water your radishes well so they swell up, rather than dry out and bolt.
The radish comes in many colours – white, pink, purple and black – and many sizes, including larger autumn-harvest varieties and long Asian daikon or mooli radishes. But there is always something special about those first little globes of the year: the perky, pinky-scarlet harbingers of summer food.
RADISHES WITH CHICKEN LIVERS AND LOVAGE
Tender chicken livers and crunchy radishes work superbly together. The lovage adds a warming, spicy edge – but you could use a blend of finely chopped celery leaves and parsley if you don’t have any. Serves 2
250g free-range or organic chicken livers
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
12 small firm radishes, with tops if available
3 tbsp double cream
1 tsp chopped lovage
Sea salt and black pepper
Trim the chicken livers and cut any larger ones in half. Put the livers in a bowl with the garlic, lemon zest, olive oil and some salt and pepper. Stir together, then leave to stand for 5–10 minutes.
Meanwhile, halve the radishes and give them a quick wash (set aside the leafy tops, if you have them). Heat a large frying pan over a high heat, add a dash of oil followed by the radishes, and cook for 1 minute, tossing regularly.
Now add the chicken livers in an even layer. Cook for 4 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times. Add the cream and lovage, along with any saved radish leaves, and bring up to a simmer. Cook for 1–2 minutes until the cream has thickened. The livers should be still a little pink inside, but not bloody or raw-looking.
Spoon the mixture on to warmed plates and serve at once, with bread and salad leaves.