Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Oryza sativa
MORE RECIPES
Fairy ring champignon risotto; Lemon verbena pilaf; Risi e bisi with pea shoot pesto; Rice and fish with wasabi dressing; Paella
SOURCING
traidcraftshop.co.uk and jts.co.uk for fairly traded rice
Rice is the seed of a grass, farmed extensively across Asia, India, Italy, Australia and the US. It is the most widely eaten food in the world, accounting for around one fifth of the calories consumed on this planet.
Traditional rice-growing is highly labour-intensive. Seed is planted, then seedlings pulled up and replanted in a small field or paddy, surrounded by a low bank. The field is then flooded with nutrient-rich water in which the plants thrive. Once the crop is ripe, the harvest is carried out by hand. Even the threshing of the grain is often still done manually.
In some Asian countries, rice-farming occupies more than half of the entire national workforce – and life is often tough for these producers. Their crop must compete with rice grown in a very different way, in places such as Australia and the US, where seed is planted via air-drop from a satellite-guided plane and harvested by giant combines. Buying fairly traded rice helps to ensure small farmers in developing countries get a fair price.
There are thousands of different varieties of cultivated rice worldwide. Common to most of them is a large ‘water footprint’. Modern rice farmers have developed strains that use less water than older varieties – but in order to flourish, rice still needs lots of water, as well as plenty of nutrients, heat and sunshine. If we all bought organic rice, we could make a real difference to the global consumption of fossil fuels: a tonne of nitrogen fertiliser requires over 7 barrels of crude oil in its manufacture.
Rice can be brown (basically wholemeal) or white (with the bran and germ milled away). It is also described by the length of its grain, the shorter grain types being usually more sticky. The starch in rice is made up of amylopectin and amylose. The more amylopectin it contains, relative to amylose, the more sticky it will be.
This is gluten-free but still capable of producing light cakes and crunchy biscuits. To adapt a baking recipe to be gluten-free, I swap rice flour for wheat, increase the flour content by 10 per cent, lower the baking temperature and increase the baking time. As long as there are eggs and raising agents in the mix too, this is usually successful.
Cooking rice
The easiest way to cook rice, in my opinion, is in a rice cooker. Controlled electronically and non-stick, it virtually eliminates the possibility of undercooking or overcooking.
However, if you don’t have a rice cooker, here is a fail-safe absorption method for white basmati. Wash your rice in a sieve under the cold tap until the water runs clear. Weigh the rice, then weigh out twice as much water. Put the water and rice into a heavy-based pan (preferably non-stick) with a tight-fitting lid. Bring to the boil, add salt, turn down to a low simmer and put the lid on. Cook for 12 minutes, then check the rice is cooked. If not, give it another minute or two, turn off the heat then cover the pan again and rest for at least 5 minutes. Fluff up the rice with a fork before serving.
Rice can also be boiled in excess liquid, then drained. This method works well for wholegrain rices, which are much less likely to absorb too much water and turn mushy.
And then there is the pilaf method – similar to the method for risotto – where the grains are fried first, coating them in oil which makes them less sticky, before being simmered in a small amount of liquid.
Storing cooked rice
Cooked rice can be inhabited by a nasty bacteria, Bacillus cereus, which causes food poisoning. The bacteria multiplies when rice is left standing at room temperature, producing an emetic toxin. Reheating the rice will not get rid of the toxin – no matter how hot it gets. So, if preparing rice in advance, be sure to cool it quickly (on a chilled plate or tray) and get it in the fridge as rapidly as possible – ideally within 30 minutes.
TYPES OF RICE
Basmati This aromatic long-grained rice from northern India and Pakistan is one of the finest rices in the world and accounts for nearly half the rice we eat in the UK.
Fragrant jasmine rice Often from Thailand, this is similar to basmati but a little more fragrant and sticky.
Long grain white rice This is a good all-rounder, less fragrant and flavourful than basmati, but high in amylose and therefore un-sticky and very easy to cook.
Wild rices Now cultivated so not technically ‘wild’ at all, these are ancient forms of rice (or similar grasses). Usually sold in their wholegrain form, they are often dramatically coloured, with a good nutty flavour.
Camargue red rice This takes its name from the drained salt marshes of southern France, where it was first grown in the 1980s. A cross between a wild and cultivated rice, it is sweet with a reddy-brown bran, and exceptionally good.
Easy-cook rice This is par-boiled in the husk prior to milling. It actually takes longer to cook than standard long grain rice but crucially is less likely to stick together.
Sushi rice This short grain rice is heavily milled, which means it is virtually all starch and therefore slightly sticky. As well as sushi, it also makes a good (if inauthentic) risotto.
Paella rice A short grain rice, used particularly for Spanish paella, but also excellent for risotto and rice pudding. Bomba is a favoured variety.
Glutinous or sticky rice This short grain rice is high in amylopectin, so very sticky – ideal for serving with thin sauces. (‘Glutinous’ is a misnomer as rice is gluten-free.)
Risotto rices There are three main types: arborio, carnaroli and vialone nano. All are medium to short grain and high in amylopectin. The starch they release is ideal for stabilising the rich emulsion of butter and stock that is the hallmark of a great risotto. Arborio is the most common and least expensive risotto rice. Carnaroli is considered superior and produces a creamy risotto while retaining the crucial al dente texture of the grains. Vialone nano, a rice of the Veneto, is perfect for the soupy risottos of that region.
Pudding rice A very short grain rice that can absorb a lot of liquid, making it ideal in a baked rice pudding.
This is lovely with a dollop of hummus. It’s also a great accompaniment to barbecued lamb or fish. You can use other brown rice, or Camargue red rice. It’s also very good (and quicker) made with couscous. Serves 3–4 as a main, 4–6 as a side dish
200g brown basmati rice, rinsed
1 head of broccoli (about 350g)
2 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tsp grated root ginger
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tbsp harissa paste
2 tbsp chopped preserved lemon (rind and flesh)
Sea salt and black pepper
TO FINISH
50g flaked almonds, toasted
Coriander leaves
Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add salt, then tip in the rice. Lower the heat and simmer for about 25 minutes until the rice is tender, topping up with more boiling water if necessary. (Or cook your rice of choice according to the pack instructions.)
Meanwhile, cut the broccoli into small florets. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the broccoli, season with salt and cook for 4–5 minutes, without stirring, until it starts to char, then give it a stir and cook for another 6–8 minutes, shaking and stirring from time to time, until tender but still al dente. Remove the broccoli to a plate; set aside.
Return the frying pan to a medium-low heat. Add the oil, then the onion. Cook for about 10 minutes until soft and golden. Add the cumin seeds and garlic and cook for a minute. Add the ginger, ground coriander and harissa. Cook gently for a couple of minutes.
Drain the rice, let it steam in the colander for a couple of minutes, then combine with the broccoli and spicy onion mix. Stir in the preserved lemon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Heap into a serving dish and scatter with the almonds and coriander to serve.
