Steven Lamb
SOURCING
graigfarm.co.uk; turnerandgeorge.co.uk
While we enjoy it today for its deliciousness, salt beef has its roots in the tradition of curing meat out of necessity. In Britain, this ingredient can be traced back to the sixteenth century at least, when barrels of brined beef were a staple of the English Navy.
There is a tradition of salt beef in the Jewish communities of New York and London too, and it is their style of salt beef that is perhaps most familiar to us today: a gently brined, slow-cooked, open-grained joint of brisket. The best examples are only delicately salty, but unbelievably moist and deeply flavoured. There are delis and restaurants that specialise in salt beef, particularly in London, but it is a bit of a rare find. Making it yourself, using brisket or foreflank, is a good option.
The beef is brined before cooking (this is what makes it ‘salt beef’). Recipes may suggest brines with anything from 10–30 per cent salinity, and brining time anything from one day to several days. I like to use a moderate amount of salt and the minimum time (as in the next recipe) because I find this seasons the beef beautifully.
Beef contains less residual liquid than other meats and deteriorates more slowly. And, of course, a modern recipe like this is not designed to preserve the meat for long keeping, so the brining can be relatively light. But you must suit your own palate: a heavier brine and/or longer soaking time will just give you more salty salt beef.
After brining, the beef is gently poached with stock veg and aromatics such as garlic and bay until it is so tender that a skewer passes through it easily. This will take around 3 hours. Salt beef can be served hot with boiled potatoes, lentils or beans or cold, in sandwiches with mustard and gherkins. Leftover beef can be fried into a delicious salt beef hash.
SALT BEEF WITH CARROTS AND POTATOES
If you don’t have time to brine your own beef, you can use a piece of shop-bought boned and rolled raw salt beef. Serves 6 with leftovers
1.5–2kg piece of beef brisket (or foreflank), boned and rolled
3 medium onions, halved but root left on, and peeled
6 medium carrots, peeled and left whole
3–4 celery stalks, halved
1 head of garlic, halved through the middle
A small bunch of thyme
4 bay leaves
A small bunch of parsley
750g large potatoes
Sea salt and black pepper
FOR THE BRINE
360g soft light brown sugar
600g fine salt
½ tsp black peppercorns
½ tsp juniper berries
2–3 bay leaves
A large sprig of thyme
If you are brining your own beef, put all the brine ingredients into a large pan with 3 litres water. Stir over a low heat until the sugar and salt have dissolved, then bring to the boil. Simmer for 1–2 minutes, then take off the heat. Allow to cool, then refrigerate.
Put the beef into a non-metallic container and pour over the cold brine. If necessary, place a plate on top to keep the meat submerged. Leave to cure in the fridge, allowing 24 hours per kg.
Remove the meat from the brine, rinse and pat dry. Wrapped in muslin, it will keep for a few days in the fridge.
When ready to cook, put the salted beef into a large pan that has a tight-fitting lid and pour in enough fresh water to cover. Add the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, thyme and bay. Pick the leaves from the parsley stalks and reserve them, then add the stalks to the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook very gently, covered, for around 3 hours, until very tender (start checking it after a couple of hours).
Peel the potatoes and cut into large pieces. Transfer the beef to a warm plate to rest. Add the potatoes to the pan of salt beef stock and return to a simmer. Cook for 15–25 minutes or until the potatoes are just tender. Chop the parsley leaves and add them to the pan along with some pepper (and salt if needed).
Slice the beef and serve in dishes, with the chunky vegetables and a few spoonfuls of the well-flavoured broth. This is very good with some mustard.