Nikki Duffy
LATIN NAME
Summer savory: Satureja hortensis. Winter savory: Satureja montana
SEASONALITY
Summer savory: May–September. Winter savory: all year round
MORE RECIPES
Roasted beetroot orzotto with lavender; Goat kebabs with rosemary, red peppers and onion
These are two underused herbs: lovely, aromatic things with robust, penetrating personalities – more akin to thyme and rosemary than, say, parsley or tarragon.
They are related but fairly different. Summer savory is a hardy annual, good between May and September, and the more delicate of the two. It’s not very delicate, however. The flavour is aromatic – a little peppery, with a slightly resinous edge. It’s a versatile herb that works well with green veg, root veg, fish and meat, and rich, creamy things. Add it, finely chopped, to meaty dishes such as stews – putting in some at the beginning and some at the end to get layers of flavour. It’s great in a burger too, or the crumb coating for chicken goujons or baked fish. I love it strewn into vegetable bakes, or beaten into butter and used to dress green veg such as chard or French beans. Keep it away from your most delicate dishes and you can’t go wrong.
Summer savory grows readily from seed, and thrives in pots as well as sunny, well-drained beds, blooming into a very pretty plant that looks rather like a long-leaved thyme. It froths with tiny white flowers in the early summer – but you should pinch these out if you want the leaves to stay tender and sweet.
Winter savory is more robust in flavour and darker in colour – a hardy perennial that looks a little like a miniature rosemary. It’s got a wonderful, assertive flavour, with hints of mint, menthol and pine. It’s exactly what a dish of simply cooked beans or lentils calls for. It is also very good in rich, meaty, fruit-studded stuffings for lamb or pork, and it’s great roasted with slightly sweet, earthy veg such as parsnips and squashes. Use it as an infuser, without eating the actual herb, or chop it finely and add it judiciously for a more distinct flavour.
Winter savory can be raised from seed, taken as a cutting or bought as a young plant. Like its summer sibling, it prefers Mediterranean-style conditions, so a sunny, sheltered position and light, well-drained soil are ideal. It does well in pots. However, it’s a tough little thing and, as long as it doesn’t get too wet, you should be able to harvest from it all year round.
Savory adds a wonderful fragrant note to these simple scones. Serve them still warm with butter and cheese or ham. They are also delicious made with thyme or marjoram. Makes 9
180g plain flour
A good pinch of salt
20g caster sugar
2 tsp baking powder
85g cold butter, cubed
2 tbsp finely chopped summer savory
140ml single cream
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment.
Put the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder into a large bowl and whisk to combine and aerate. Add the cold butter and, using your fingertips, lightly rub it in until most of the pieces of butter are the size of petits pois or a little smaller; don’t overwork the mix. Stir in the chopped savory. Set aside 1 tbsp cream, then stir in the rest until the mixture just comes together into a slightly sticky dough.
Turn out on to a lightly floured surface and roll or press the dough lightly with your hands until it’s about 1.5cm thick. Stamp out 6.5cm rounds using a cutter, then gently re-roll or re-pat the dough scraps to cut the final scones.
Place the rounds on the baking sheet and brush the tops with the remaining cream. Bake for 15–17 minutes, until golden and well risen. Transfer to a wire rack to cool, then serve them warm or cold, split and buttered. These are best eaten within a day of making.