Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Common snipe: Gallinago gallinago. Jacksnipe: Lymnocryptes minimus
SEASONALITY
England, Wales and Scotland: 12 August–31 January. Northern Ireland and Isle of Man: 1 September–31 January
HABITAT
Water meadows, wetlands, heathland and moorland
MORE RECIPES
SOURCING
This diminutive bird is a bit of a deceiver. It’s so small that it seems hardly worth the bother of shooting it, let alone plucking and cooking it, yet the flavour it delivers is immense – utterly delightful in its richness and rare character. There are two kinds of snipe in the British Isles: the common snipe and the slightly smaller jacksnipe, which is protected here – except in Northern Ireland, where it is more abundant.
Common snipe are small brown birds with white undersides that flit up out of nowhere in damp meadow and scrubland locations. They are incredibly difficult to shoot as they rise swiftly and suddenly from the ground and climb higher and higher, following an erratic path. It’s this unwillingness to comply with hunters’ wishes that has given rise to the term ‘sniper’ to describe a marksman of exceptional talent.
Traditionally, most wildfowl are sold in a ‘brace’, meaning two birds, but little snipe are sold in threes. This is known as a ‘finger’ due to the fact that you can carry three between the fingers of one hand.
Unless you know someone who shoots a few snipe each year, getting hold of a ‘finger’ will probably prove rather tricky: only the most dedicated of game dealers are likely to be able to get them and even a solitary snipe is a rare treat for the wild meat fan. If you are lucky enough to have one come your way, it’s well worth the hassle of plucking it. Snipe should then be cooked guts in, in the same fashion as woodcock but for about half the time.
The birds can be locally abundant but we must remain cautious – no one wants to see a decline in the species. However, the difficulty of shooting them and the small number of people dedicated enough to try are, I believe, limiting factors that will ensure the survival of this wonderful creature.
These delicate little game birds need only brief cooking: this meal can be ready in under half an hour. You could use woodcock or small pigeon instead of snipe, increasing the cooking time accordingly, and celeriac instead of swede. Serves 2
1 swede, about 500g, peeled and cut into smallish chunks
2 tbsp double cream or crème fraîche
40g butter
A dash of rapeseed oil or lard
4 thick rashers of smoked bacon, roughly chopped
2 sprigs of thyme
4–6 oven-ready snipe, at room temperature
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
6–8 sage leaves
25ml brandy
75ml red wine
300ml game or chicken stock
Sea salt and black pepper
Put the swede into a pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 12–15 minutes, until completely tender. Drain well, then mash together with the cream, about two-thirds of the butter, some salt and lots of black pepper. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and place a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add a dash of oil or lard, followed by the bacon. Cook for a couple of minutes until the bacon starts to render some fat, then add the thyme.
Season the snipe and add them to the frying pan, pushing the bacon to one side. Brown well on all sides for 4–5 minutes. Lift the birds out into a small roasting tray, leaving the bacon in the pan. Add the onion, garlic and sage to the frying pan and cook over a medium-low heat for 8–10 minutes, until soft.
Meanwhile, roast the snipe in the oven for about 5 minutes or until the guts just pop out.
Add the brandy to the frying pan and stir for a minute as it bubbles, to deglaze the pan. Pour in the wine and let it simmer until reduced by half. Add the stock, bring to a simmer and reduce it by half too.
Remove the birds from the oven and leave to rest in a warm place for a few minutes. Meanwhile, finish the sauce. Whisk in the remaining butter, along with any resting juices from the snipe, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve the snipe alongside the swede, with the smoky bacon sauce.