Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Rhus coriaria
MORE RECIPES
Sumac is a shrub that grows on rocky upland in the more arid regions of the world. Its berries, dried and crushed, are used as a spice in Middle Eastern cookery – especially Lebanese food, but it’s happy in many dishes. Dark plum red in colour, sumac has a unique, vibrant flavour: lemony and acidic, but also smoky and rich. The citrusy tang means it performs a little like lemon zest in a dish – adding a lovely, bright top note of flavour and enhancing other ingredients.
It’s a spice that is very easy to work with – it doesn’t need grinding or toasting. Simply sprinkle it on to just-grilled meats and fish, or mix it into a zingy, rich coriander dressing. I also love sumac on pancakes with some exceptional honey and maybe a few fresh or dried apricots.
Sumac is perhaps best known as an ingredient in fattoush – the Lebanese crispy bread salad – and it’s a great way to try it. Split open some pitta breads and dry them out in the oven until crisp, while you make a dressing of sumac, finely chopped garlic, olive oil and a little chopped chilli. Dress the bread with this mixture, then add chopped tomato, cucumber and loads of torn mint and basil.
Many versions of za’atar (see Thyme) include sumac. This Middle Eastern spice mix makes a great dry dip, used in the same way as dukkah – dunk bread in oil before dipping it into the za’atar and you are in paradise. It is also excellent as a marinade for anything you’re planning on barbecuing. Simply add a little oil to the dry spices and rub into meat, fish or vegetables.
Sumac also works rather well with tequila in a sort of Middle Eastern version of a Margarita. Add a little pomegranate juice too and you’re really into new territory.
You can buy sumac from good health food shops and spice suppliers. The spice keeps well for several months (especially in the fridge).
A great weekend breakfast or a delicious meat-free lunch. Serves 2–4
3 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
2 onions, halved and finely sliced
2 tsp thyme leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ tsp dried chilli flakes
400g tin peeled tomatoes, crushed or chopped
4 eggs
1 tsp sumac
150g feta or any mild, salty ewe’s cheese, or Lancashire, crumbled
A small handful of coriander leaves
A small knob of butter
Sea salt and black pepper
Heat the oil in a medium frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion and thyme and sauté gently for about 8–10 minutes, until the onions are softened and starting to turn golden. Add the garlic and chilli, stir for a minute, then add the tomatoes, season and simmer for about 10 minutes until thickened slightly.
Break an egg into a saucer and slide it into the sauce. Repeat with the other eggs so they are evenly distributed around the pan. Sprinkle half the sumac and some pepper over the whole thing, then continue to cook gently (effectively poaching the eggs) until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny. Remove the pan from the heat, crumble over the cheese and sprinkle on the coriander.
Heat the butter in a small saucepan, add the rest of the sumac, stir, then trickle this spiced butter over the eggs. Serve with warm flatbreads.