John Wright
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Vodka, being a very strong distilled spirit, is famously flavourless, or at least it tastes mostly of alcohol, possessing just a few hints of its base ingredient. That base can be almost anything fermentable: potato, barley, wheat and corn are the most traditional, but vodka can be based on sugar beet, rice, milk – even Fairtrade quinoa – these days. The versatility of the basic technique means you can make vodka almost anywhere and there’s now a thriving British distilling industry capitalising on that.
Vodka is a bracing tipple on its own, of course, but its neutrality also make it a great choice for an alcoholic infusion. My favourites are sloe vodka, raspberry vodka, rose petal vodka (Rosa rugosa is best) and the rather unlikely sweet vernal grass vodka (a British version of bison grass vodka). On their own they are terrific but most are even better in a cocktail. Rose petal vodka with rosehip syrup, raspberry juice, soda water, lemonade and ice, for example, makes a quite superb summer drink which I call a ‘pink pint’. A vodka infusion will always make the flavour of the infused ingredient immediately accessible. So, if you want your sponge cake to taste of rose petals, look no further, just add rose vodka to the mix.
Vodka infusions can also form the basis of vodka shots, where vodka is turned into a more than usually invigorating jelly. Sloe vodka shot, watermint shot, jelly bean shot – endless fun can be had by choosing different infusions, layering different jellies, sprinkling coloured sugar or using unusual moulds. The basic process is to make a plain jelly with sweetened water, using leaf gelatine, and stir in an equal volume of vodka infusion while the water is still slightly warm (calculate the gelatine needed according to the total quantity of liquid, i.e. water plus vodka). Of course, infusions are not always essential: you can use fruit juices mixed with neat vodka instead.
Straight vodka can also be mixed into preserves and fruit sauces to give them an extra bite. Try vodka in fruit jam for a Victoria sponge, vodka in marmalade to top a cheesecake, or vodka and plum sauce to pour over a pudding.
This is fragrant and floral, with a fruity tang from the damsons and heady notes from the rosemary. If you can’t find wild fruit, cultivated damsons work too – as do sloes. It makes for a wonderful Christmas snifter. Makes about 1 litre
500g ripe damsons
350g caster sugar
2 large sprigs of rosemary, lightly bashed
700ml vodka
With a small, sharp knife, make a couple of cuts in each damson, through to the stone. Place the fruit in a large, sealable jar, such as a Kilner jar, along with the sugar, rosemary and vodka. Give the jar a good shake and set it aside.
Shake the jar several times over the next few days to encourage all the sugar to dissolve. Then place the jar somewhere cool and dark and away from temptation for 2–3 months.
Now strain out the fruit and rosemary by pouring the mixture through a sieve lined with muslin or a clean tea towel. Funnel the strained, fruity liquor into a clean bottle and seal with a cork or screw cap.
Store the vodka in a cool, dark cupboard. You can drink it straight away but it will improve with keeping. The longer you can store it, the better. The strained-out damsons can be used in all manner of delicious ways – add to sauces, game stews, jams and puddings, or just warm them through and serve with ice cream. (Just watch out for the stones!)
Note For a more complex, mellow flavour, reduce the sugar to 175g and let the fruit sit in the vodka for 6 months before bottling, then mature the strained liquor for 2–3 years before drinking.