Nick Fisher
LATIN NAME
Sander lucioperca
ALSO KNOWN AS
Pike-perch
SEASONALITY
England and Wales: closed season on rivers generally 15 March–15 June
MCS RATING
Not rated
REC MINIMUM SIZE
30cm
MORE RECIPES
Cod with fennel, capers and tomatoes
Zander is often lumped together with perch – so much so that it is even called the ‘pike-perch’ by anglers and fishmongers. This catchy moniker derives from some curious notion that the two-fanged, mirror-eyed, spooky-looking, night-hunting zander was created in a Frankensteinian hybridisation of two of our deadliest fresh water killers, the pike and the perch. Much as I love this idea, it is total bunkum. These fish are quite different. While perch boasts an almost oily quality to its firm meat, zander is just like a freshwater cod. Flaky and tender of flesh, white as the driven snow, with none of the ‘muddy’ taste often associated with freshwater fish.
In addition, while perch is a long-time inhabitant of the British waterways, zander is an illegal alien introduced to England a mere century and a half ago, to Woburn Abbey by the 9th Duke of Bedford, who knew of its culinary fame on the Continent.
Sadly, because of a badly planned ‘naturalisation scheme’ attempted by the National Rivers Authority in the 1960s, in which they were introduced into the fen drains of East Anglia, zander have been blamed for decimating our indigenous stocks of coarse fish. They are voracious predators who, as a result of their incredible ocular physiology, are able to hunt in muddy, opaque water, and at night. Since zander live on a diet of finger-sized roach and bream, British coarse anglers have grown to hate them.
However, European cooks love them. Zander is now successfully farmed throughout northern Europe where it appears regularly on fishmonger’s slabs and menus and, in some regions of Eastern Europe, is more popular than trout. The firm, white, cod-like nature of its flesh is uncanny. Zander can grow very large too; fish just shy of 20lb (9kg) have been caught from the River Severn. So, should you ever come across a zander (some online suppliers and fishmongers sell them), don’t be deterred by its grey skin, glassy eyes and vampire fangs – snap it up. Try it in any recipe where you would otherwise use cod, pollack or haddock.
ZANDER WITH CORIANDER AND CHILLI DRESSING
This slightly spicy dressing is excellent with zander, but works equally well with pike, pollack, whiting – most white fish, in fact. You can use it with chicken or pork too. Serves 4
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
4 zander fillets, skin on (about 150g each)
A small knob of butter
A squeeze of lemon juice
Sea salt and black pepper
FOR THE DRESSING
A small bunch of coriander, (about 30g), finely chopped, including stalks
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 medium-hot red chilli (deseeded for less heat, if preferred), finely chopped
Juice of ½ lemon
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp hot smoked paprika
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
For the dressing, either mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, or blitz in a blender to create a smoother dressing (using the blender to chop the coriander, garlic and chilli first). Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
Put a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the oil. Season the zander fillets all over with salt and pepper and place them, skin side down, in the hot pan. Press down on the flesh for a few seconds to help stop the fish curling up and enable it to cook more evenly. Cook the fillets, without moving, for 3 minutes, then turn them over; the skin should be nice and brown by now.
Add the butter and lemon juice to the pan, and cook the fillets on the second side for 1–2 minutes, basting with the pan juices once or twice, until just cooked through – the flesh should flake apart easily.
Transfer the zander fillets to warmed plates and spoon over some of the dressing. Bring the remaining dressing to the table. Serve the fish with freshly cooked Puy lentils, tossed with spring onions and herbs, or some roasted sweet potatoes.