Nick Fisher
LATIN NAME
Scophthalmus rhombus
SEASONALITY
Avoid during spring and summer when spawning
HABITAT
Eastern Atlantic. Found around the south and west coasts of Britain and in the North Sea. Also the Mediterranean
MCS RATING
3–4
REC MINIMUM SIZE
30cm
MORE RECIPES
Plaice with rosemary, caper and anchovy butter; Turbot with white wine, lemon zest and thyme
SOURCING
Everyone’s heard of turbot, it’s the chef’s favourite. And yet brill, the turbot’s almost-twin, is left skulking anonymously in the shadows. But brill is not only every bit as good as turbot, I would say it’s better. A little firmer of flesh, its whole overlooked-underdog persona also makes it feel more of an original choice.
Brill is in fact so similar to its more expensive, more famous flatfish cousin that the two even interbreed occasionally. Both are Premier League flatfish: big, ripped, aggressive predators that can grow up to 9kg. And because they’re so partial to eating prawns and crabs, their flesh tastes of the firm, white place where lobster meets scallops to talk about veal. In terms of price and cache, they soar above plaice, dab, flounder and even sole, with only the mighty halibut to keep them company in the higher echelons of bottom feeders.
Brill is sold whole, or in tranches (slices across the body), or as fillets. A whole fish will be pricey and definitely something for a special occasion but it takes some beating, flaking off the bone in an easy-to-serve, forktastic fashion. For two people, try a single, large fillet instead. The tight, muscular, robust flesh can stand any manner of sensible cooking: baking, grilling, frying or even poaching in a fresh herby liquor. A double-skin-sided tranche will even survive the rigours of barbecuing. Sorrel, sage, basil, parsley butter, black butter, capers and salsa verde are all great friends of brill.
Like turbot and skate, brill is, surprisingly, not at its best on the day it is caught. When very fresh, the flesh is slightly jellified and bland. So, if you’re lucky enough to catch your own brill or buy one direct from a day-boat, don’t cook it immediately. Leave the flesh to rest and knit and settle in the fridge for 24–48 hours. Don’t be afraid to freeze it either. Tightly wrapped fillets freeze well, tranches even better, and this helps ‘mature’ the flesh in the same way as a little quality fridge-time.
It’s no surprise that such a Class-A fish is under threat of overfishing. Hard evidence about stock health is lacking but tread with care and avoid buying trawled brill. Local day-boat catches are best, with line-caught being the most conscientious option. The bigger (i.e. more mature) the brill, the better; avoid anything under 30cm.
ROAST BRILL WITH AIR-DRIED HAM AND PARSLEY SAUCE
A spectacular but comforting way to eat this superb fish – or any other large flatfish, such as plaice or turbot. Serves 4
A little olive or rapeseed oil
Leaves from a large bunch of flat-leaf parsley (about 100g), finely chopped, stalks reserved
1 whole brill (1.5–2kg), gutted and trimmed
2–3 garlic cloves, sliced
8 slices of air-dried ham
50g butter
30g plain flour
400ml hot ham, veg, chicken or fish stock
1 tsp Dijon mustard
250ml double cream
Sea salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Oil a large roasting tray, big enough to take your fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and scatter over the parsley stalks. Place the fish on top, dark side up, and scatter over the garlic. Trickle the fish with more oil and massage it into the skin, then season all over with salt and pepper.
Lay the ham slices over and around the fish. Bake for 25 minutes or until the fish is just cooked through and the white flesh lifts away from the bone.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium-low heat. When it’s bubbling, stir in the flour and cook for 1–2 minutes. Now add the hot stock, a third at a time, whisking it in to avoid any lumps. Stir in the mustard and simmer over a low heat for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the cream and bring back to a simmer, then take off the heat. Add the chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Bring the whole brill to the table and serve with the warm sauce and some good mash.