Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Fagopyrum esculentum
ALSO KNOWN AS
Kasha, soba
MORE RECIPES
Chive buckwheat blinis with hard-boiled eggs; Tortillas with cumin and garlic oil; Noodles with seaweed, smoked mackerel and soy
Not a form of wheat at all, buckwheat is actually the seed of a flowering plant. The black hull is removed to reveal a pale seed with a characteristic triangular shape. This is used whole (as ‘groats’), rolled into flakes, or milled into flour. The popularity of buckwheat is on the rise as more of us seek out wheat- and gluten-free foods. This renaissance is well deserved: buckwheat has a delicious nutty, earthy flavour and to cook with it is to be transported to a time before wheat ruled the roost. Note that although buckwheat is naturally gluten-free, it may be ‘contaminated’ by being processed alongside wheat: check the packet if you are avoiding gluten.
Buckwheat is a fast-maturing crop that grows even in poor conditions and, until wheat became more popular, it was used wherever it could be grown, particularly in cold and mountainous regions. It was a mainstay in Russia and Eastern Europe and remains the basis for traditional staples such as northern Italian pizzoccheri pasta and Japanese soba noodles.
Used alone, buckwheat flour won’t produce cakes with a tender sponge, owing to the absence of gluten, but it can be combined with some wheat flour, or mixed with other non-wheat flours or ground nuts, along with eggs and/or raising agents, to make good cakes and scones. Buckwheat also makes great batters with a characteristic, slightly ‘gloopy’ consistency, which produce excellent fritters (see the next recipe) and pancakes. Both Breton galettes and Russian blinis owe their distinctive, earthy flavour to buckwheat flour.
Buckwheat can be used in place of bulgar wheat in tabbouleh: cook the groats in lightly salted boiling water for 8–12 minutes until tender, then drain, cool under cold running water and drain again. Dress the cooked grains with spices such as smoked paprika, coriander and cumin, then add diced onion, garlic, tomato and lots of vibrant herbs such as mint, parsley and coriander. Season well with chilli and lemon juice and finish with hemp or olive oil. This makes a fantastic accompaniment to any barbecue.
Buckwheat seed may also be roasted for a stronger, earthier flavour – when it is sometimes called ‘kasha’; it is used in the same way as the raw groats.
These little fritters – light and moreish and very quick to make – are delicious with coffee. Serves 4–6 as a snack
1 medium eating apple (125–150g)
1 medium egg
50g caster sugar
100g buckwheat flour
A pinch of salt
1 tsp baking powder
Vegetable oil (refined rapeseed oil), for frying
TO FINISH
4 tbsp caster sugar
A good pinch of ground allspice or ground cinnamon
Peel the apple and grate it coarsely into a bowl. Add the egg and beat to combine. Add the sugar, buckwheat flour, salt and baking powder and beat to form a batter.
Heat a 1.5cm depth of oil in a fairly deep, heavy pan to about 170°C, or until ½ tsp of the batter dropped in turns a rich golden brown in just under 1½ minutes.
Cook the fritters in batches, 4–6 at a time. Spoon teaspoonfuls of the batter into the hot oil and cook for about 1½ minutes, turning the fritters over in the oil once or twice, until puffed up and dark golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.
Mix the sugar and ground spice together in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the hot fritters and turn to coat. Pile the fritters into a bowl and serve straight away.