Tim Maddams
LATIN NAME
Triticum spp.
ALSO KNOWN AS
Burghul, bulgur
MORE RECIPES
Spiced couscous with lemon and sultanas; Minted spelt and tomato salad
Bulgar, also known as burghul, is wheat that has been par-boiled, dried and ‘cracked’ to form pale golden-brown nuggets. It can be milled to various degrees to form fine, medium or coarse granules. Medium works well for most purposes.
One of the great things about this grain is that it is quick and easy to cook. The basic preparation is simple: for 4 people, bring 300ml water to the boil in a medium saucepan. Add 1 tbsp olive oil, 200g medium bulgar wheat and some salt and pepper. Stir, then simmer for 3 minutes. Take off the heat, cover and leave for 10 minutes to plump up. (Fine and coarse bulgar will require a little less or more simmering, respectively.) Fluff up the grains with a fork – they should be al dente rather than soft. You can serve the bulgar plain, alongside something spicy, or dress it: just olive oil or butter and some salt and pepper will do, but a zesty, blended herb and garlic number is a winner every time.
Bulgar has a lovely, virtuous texture but, as with many grains, it is essentially bland. The more flavour, spice and seasoning you can give it – or accompany it with – the better. Traditionally, it’s a North African and Eastern European ingredient, popular particularly as an addition to spiced stews, soups and rissoles such as kibbeh.
I mostly use bulgar in a similar way to couscous, as an accompaniment to tagines or stews. It also makes an excellent last-minute stand-in for pearl barley in soups. Tossing a handful or two of cooked bulgar (see above) into bread doughs and batters, meanwhile, is a great way of adding extra fibre and texture.
Try using bulgar instead of breadcrumbs in stuffings for rich meats like pork belly. Cooked as above, seasoned and mixed with lots of chopped herbs and minced meat offcuts, it works well and lends a more interesting texture.
Look out for organic and/or fairly traded bulgar. The biggest supply is from Canada but it’s often processed in other countries.
This comforting combination of grain, nutty lentils and golden, fried onions is a traditional Lebanese dish. Classically, it’s made with rice, but bulgar works beautifully too. Serves 4
3 tbsp olive oil
4 large onions, thinly sliced
100g Puy lentils
150g medium bulgar wheat
1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed (or 2 tsp ground cumin)
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
Juice of ½ lemon
50g toasted sunflower seeds or shelled hemp kernels
Sea salt and black pepper
Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat and add 2 tbsp olive oil. Toss in the onions, sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and give them a good stir. Cover and cook gently for about 30 minutes or until the onions are very soft and tender.
Meanwhile, rinse the lentils in a sieve under cold running water. Tip them into a pan and add enough water just to cover. Bring to the boil, then immediately drain and return to the pan. Add the bulgar wheat to the pan too. Cover with water and bring up to a gentle simmer. Cook for 8–10 minutes, or until the lentils and bulgar are tender but still with a little bit of bite. Drain and place in a bowl.
Stir the cumin through the softened onions, turn up the heat and cook, uncovered, for a few minutes until golden and caramelised. Remove from the heat.
Stir half the onions through the cooked lentils and bulgar, along with the parsley, lemon juice, remaining olive oil and some salt and pepper.
Serve garnished with the remaining onions and toasted seeds, as a side dish, or on its own, with a spoonful of thick yoghurt.