Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
LATIN NAME
Cyprinus carpio
SEASONALITY
England and Wales: closed season on rivers generally 15 March–15 June
HABITAT
Rivers and still waters across the British Isles
MCS RATING
Not rated
REC MINIMUM SIZE
25cm
SOURCING
There are plenty of people in this country who are nuts about catching carp – and then putting them back in the water. Freshwater fish doesn’t seem to have the appeal of its marine cousins nowadays, but we used to love eating this fish. Native to Eastern Europe, where it is still heartily enjoyed, it was welcomed in Britain when the Romans introduced it precisely because it was such good eating. With its rich flesh (it’s classed as an oily fish, and is a good source of omega-3s) and curdy flakes of meat, it can be quite delicious.
I’m particularly interested in carp because it could potentially reduce the pressure on some of our other, more high-profile fish. Carp is unusual in that it can easily be farmed in an organic, sustainable way. It is a fast-growing omnivore, happy to graze in inland ponds and, crucially, does not require vast quantities of other fish in order to thrive. It does very well on grains, seeds, worms and insects. This is in marked contrast to the high water and protein requirements of some other farmed species, including trout and salmon.
Carp is already being farmed in Britain but most of it goes to stock angling lakes. However, farmed carp can be bought online, in Asian-run fishmongers, and in some supermarkets around Christmas, when it’s considered a traditional treat by many Eastern Europeans. I think every curious fish cook should give it a try.
Carp has scales that need to be removed and, while the basic skeleton is uncomplicated, it sports a row of y-shaped pin bones down the centre of each fillet. In carp-eating countries, these are either dealt with via special machines, or accepted as part and parcel of the carp experience, as with herring and sardines. The feared ‘muddy’ flavour in carp can be dealt with by ‘cleaning’ the fish in a tank of fresh water for a couple of days before dispatch – something that good carp farms will do.
Whole or filleted, carp is very good baked in a foil parcel with aromatic seasonings such as garlic, ginger and soy. Or, Italian style, baked with pancetta and tomatoes.
Delicately scented with thyme and juniper, this is lovely served on hot brown toast. Try it with other fish too, such as trout or perch. Serves 4–6 as a starter
1 gutted carp (700g–1kg), no need to descale
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly bashed
2 large sprigs of thyme
4 bay leaves
6–8 juniper berries, bashed
200g unsalted butter
Juice of ½ lemon
Sea salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4.
Place the carp on a baking tray and put the bashed garlic clove, thyme and bay into the cavity. Roast the fish for 20 minutes or until the flesh is just cooked; check by gently lifting the flesh from the bone – it should come away easily.
When the carp is cool enough to handle, remove and reserve the garlic, thyme and bay from inside. Now carefully peel away the skin and scales from the fish: they should come away easily. Flake the cooked carp flesh into a large bowl, removing and discarding the bones as you go – including the y-shaped pin bones.
Put the reserved bay, thyme and garlic in a small pan with the juniper and butter. Melt over a gentle heat. When bubbling, take off the heat and leave to infuse for 5–10 minutes.
Pour the butter through a sieve over the carp meat. Gently combine the fish with the butter, trying not to break up the flakes of fish too much, and giving it one last check for bones. Season well with salt, pepper and lemon juice as you go.
Put the mixture into a sealable jar or 4–6 ramekins or small pots. Leave to cool, then refrigerate to set before serving. It will keep in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to 7 days.