Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
LATIN NAME
Cantharellus cibarius
ALSO KNOWN AS
Girolles
SEASONALITY
Late summer–late autumn
HABITAT
Common in woodland, throughout the British Isles
MORE RECIPES
Small, delicately frilled, and a glorious, egg-yolk gold in colour, chanterelles are the bonny wee things of the mushroom world. They even smell pretty, with their unique scent, which is slightly reminiscent of apricot. However, despite their dainty appearance, they boast a deliciously firm flesh and a wonderful, earthy flavour.
You will find them in woodland, on mossy banks or nudging through the grass in shady, damp glades, potentially in pretty much any part of the British Isles. Your most fertile hunting grounds are likely to be oak and beech woods (particularly in the south) and birch and pine (more in the north). My biggest hauls have come from Scotland. Their prime season is late summer to late autumn. But if the summer has been wet they can be found as early as July, and as our winters grow inexorably milder, they’re sometimes to be spotted in December.
A sister mushroom, the winter or trumpet chanterelle (Cantharellus tubaeformis) can be found in woodland, usually around November. While it’s not as fabulous as the chanterelle, it is still worth eating. Don’t be fooled, however, by the aptly named false chanterelle (Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca) which is similar-looking albeit with a much more pronounced orange colour and a more symmetrical form. Opinions vary as to whether it’s poisonous but it’s not nice to eat and is definitely best avoided.
I’ve found very good chanterelles in markets – particularly in France, where they are often known as girolles. High-end greengrocers are another potential source. And increasingly you may also find them being sold online.
Given a quick check-over and a light brush, chanterelles need only to be tumbled into a pan of foaming butter (plus a dash of olive oil if you like) with a scattering of chopped garlic and cooked for a few minutes. If they do release some water (which is likely if the weather has been wet) then just keep tossing until it’s cooked away. Season well with salt and pepper towards the end.
Finished with a second knob of butter, a mist of lemon juice and a little chopped parsley, chervil or chives, sautéed chanterelles are perfection on toast. They are also great with eggs (poached or scrambled) or alongside some simply cooked meat (venison or wild duck especially). At a push, I might toss them through pasta – a nicely eggy home-made tagliatelle, for preference.
CHANTERELLE AND CHARD BRUSCHETTA
This earthy and delicious autumnal lunch is just as good with spinach in place of the chard. Serves 2
About 75g chard
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
150g chanterelles, brushed clean, any large ones halved or quartered
2 garlic cloves, 1 sliced and 1 halved
1 tsp chopped thyme leaves
15g butter
2 generous slices of sourdough or other robust bread
Extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil, to trickle
Sea salt and black pepper
Separate the chard stalks from the leaves. Slice the stalks into 1cm pieces and the leaves into wide ribbons.
Place a heavy-based frying pan, large enough to take all the mushrooms in one layer, over a medium-high heat and add the 1 tbsp oil. When it is hot, add the chanterelles and chard stalks and fry for 1 minute, tossing a few times.
Add the sliced garlic, thyme, butter and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Fry for a few more minutes, stirring now and then, until the mushrooms are just soft. Add the chard leaves, and cook for a minute or two more until the leaves have wilted. Taste for seasoning.
Meanwhile, toast the bread and, while still warm, rub with the cut surfaces of the halved garlic clove. Trickle the toast with a little extra virgin oil and place a slice on each plate. Pile the mushroom and chard mixture on top and serve straight away.
