Steven Lamb
MORE RECIPES
English onion soup; Chicken and cider stew with rosemary dumplings; Braised rabbit with turnips
SOURCING
camra.org.uk; bristolcidershop.co.uk
Despite living in Dorset in the West Country – the centre of the cider universe – this is rarely my first choice of drink. But when it comes to using cider as a cooking ingredient, I just can’t leave it alone. To me, its complex flavours and strong, yeasty character seem more balanced and accessible when they form part of a dish than when they are being glugged along with it.
It’s hardly surprising that a drink brewed from apples makes such a great and versatile ingredient: it can be sweet, sour or somewhere in between, and boasts a whole array of toasty, floral, fruity flavours. And, although artisanal cider is mostly made in autumn and quaffed through the summer, it has year-round applications in cooking. It is excellent as a base for gravy, in a creamy sauce to go with pork, or as the steaming liquor for mussels – and really comes into its own in a brine for the Boxing Day ham. In salad dressings, its sharpness can lift any leaf, and I can’t think of anything better to add to a gamey stew or casserole. It will even improve the taste of apples in a pie or crumble – just pre-cook the fruit with a glassful before topping. I prefer to use dry, sparkling ciders for cooked dishes and flat, sweet ciders for dressings.
The best ciders are those made using traditional cider apple varieties such as ‘Kingston Black’ or ‘Northern Spy’. When pressed and fermented, these sour fruits develop a range of complex flavours. Old-school, still, cloudy ciders are generally the preserve of real ale pubs or home-brew enthusiasts. The bottled ciders you buy in the shops are usually filtered, fizzed and pasteurised – but they can still be very good. It’s the worst of the bunch you want to avoid, i.e. bulk-buy ciders concocted from juice concentrate and heaps of sugar.
Perry is very different from cider. Fermented from pears, it has a fresh and light character, and is often a little sweet. Traditional perry is made from specific pear varieties, such as ‘Late Treacle’ and ‘Dumbleton Huffcap’, which are much higher in tannins and acids than dessert pears. Good perry, a speciality of Herefordshire, Gloucestershire and Worcestershire, is quite tricky to find; the much broader term ‘pear cider’ can cover a multitude of sins as it can be made from any pears, and may be from concentrate.
Use a sharp, dry cider for this big, bold gravy, to complement the caramelised sweetness of the slowly cooked onions. It’s delicious, of course, with sausages – but also with pheasant or pork chops. Serves 4
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
20g butter
2 large or 3 medium onions, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp chopped sage
2 tsp plain flour
250ml dry cider
250ml chicken or veg stock
Sea salt and black pepper
Place a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. When bubbling, add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring regularly, for 4–5 minutes.
Scatter over the thyme and sage, season with salt and pepper and stir well. Place a close-fitting lid on the pan and turn the heat down low. Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden and tender.
Work the flour into the soft onions and cook for another minute, then stir in the cider and stock and bring back to a simmer, stirring. Allow the gravy to bubble for 10–12 minutes so that it reduces and thickens slightly. Taste and add more salt and pepper if necessary before serving.