Brie, mozzarella, Cheddar, goat, Swiss, Gorgonzola, feta . . .
Cheese, glorious cheese. The possibilities are endless, and the rich—and decadent—goodness is hard to resist. After all, what would a perfectly baked slice of pizza be without it? Or the extra hint of richness in your favorite sandwich? With its impossible-to-resist combination of fat, salt, and creaminess, it’s hardly surprising that meals simply feel incomplete without the warm, gooey addition.
Since before recorded history, cheese has been one of the most beloved and sought-after foods in the world. Blocks, wheels, sprinkles, spreads, slices, and shreds. Hard cheeses and soft ones, pungent cheeses and mild ones. Today, Americans eat about 33 pounds of cheese a year, three times the rate of 1970. And yet with all this cheese consumption, it is estimated that a staggering 50 million Americans suffer from some degree of dairy intolerance or allergy. Even those of us without dairy-related discomforts are now looking for ways to opt out of the environmentally unsustainable, cruel, and unhealthy products available in the market today.
As we shift away from processed foods to real, clean ingredients, it’s only natural that we would look for better dairy-free cheese alternatives as well.
Up until quite recently, casein-filled cheeselike shreds and overprocessed slices, often flavorless, strangely textured, and hard to digest, with unwelcome ingredients—such as vegetable glycerin, titanium dioxide, and my all-time favorite, “natural” flavors and colors—were the only dairy-free consumer cheese options.
Yet the increasing popularity of nut milks in recent years has changed the plant-based cheese landscape forever. Forward-thinking artisanal companies, such as Miyoko’s Kitchen, Dr. Cow, and Vromage are now creating creamy and inventive nut-based offerings that will satisfy the harshest of cheese critics.
With little time and effort, you, too, can easily dazzle your friends, family, and guests by making your own rich and creamy varieties at home. Whether you’re preparing an easy pasta dinner for the family, craving a cheesy snack, or planning an artisanal platter for the ultimate wine, beer, and cocktail pairing party, the following plant-based cheese recipes have you covered, no matter the occasion.
Versatile and fun, they can also make a tremendous contribution to your well-being. Made with nuts, seeds, beans, and veggies, these cheeses contribute iron, fiber, and naturally occurring phytochemicals to your diet. They are also naturally low in fat and saturated fat and are all cholesterol-free and significantly lower in sodium than dairy cheeses.
The main difference between “real” cheese and vegan cheese is the consolidated protein, otherwise known as the curd. Dairy cheese goes through stages where the proteins physically bond to one another during the aging process. Vegan cheese, on the other hand, doesn’t experience any modification in proteins and may not deliver the same complex flavors that come from coagulated, acidified, pasteurized, and aged milk. However, vegan cheeses can rival the taste and texture of many dairy varieties through the bacterial and aging process.
I’ve categorized the nondairy cheeses in this book primarily by texture and type: block and wheel for firm cheeses, soft and fresh for spreadable varieties, and sprinkles and sauces for quick and easy cheese fixes.
Several techniques are used in this book to produce a variety of cultured and uncultured cheeses. For cultured cheeses, “ripened” flavors are produced by brief periods of lacto-bacterial fermentation. For noncultured cheeses, sharper flavor profiles are created by introducing combinations of acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Both processes are simple and quite gratifying, although a little more patience is required for the cultured variety.
As you begin using this book, I invite you to look over the next few sections on pantry essentials and useful kitchen tools, to help you prepare for the recipes. There are also tips on how to prepare your own nut and seed milks, yogurt, and ferments. As you dog-ear the pages of the recipes you want to try, be sure to read the headnotes, tips, and variations offered, keeping in mind that some recipes call for components of other recipes, so you may have to prepare one ingredient beforehand. But it’s always worth it!
At the end of each recipe, you’ll find notes that cover everything from ingredient information to cooking suggestions, to possible variations on the recipes. My hope is that they’ll complement and enhance your experience with the recipes.
For those who suffer from food allergies or sensitivities, I also make notations at the start of each recipe to indicate whether it is soy-free, nut-free, and/or seed-free. And because a nut or seed allergy should never stand between you and your vegan cheese, I am so very excited to note just how many vegetable cheese recipes I have listed.
Although there might be several unfamiliar ingredients and techniques in this book, don’t get intimidated. The recipes are quite simple. The key to getting more comfortable is to start. Rather than shying away from an ingredient you’ve never heard of, embrace it. If there’s a technique you haven’t tried, just give it a whirl. You’ll soon be amazed at these recipes’ versatility and ease to prepare.
Most of all, I’m confident the recipes in this cookbook will have a positive impact on your health and well-being, and hopefully ignite your enthusiasm for simple, plant-based eating.
When it comes to prepping your space for making cheese, there are a few good habits to acquire right away. Here are some simple practices to get you started.
• Hot water is best to wash your equipment, utensils, and molds. Avoid using detergents that might leave a chemical residue. Use very hot water with a plain biodegradable soap, such as castile, instead.
• Make a solution of half white vinegar and half water and keep in a spray bottle to use as a general cleanser for your counter before beginning to work.
• Use clean, fresh kitchen towels when working with cheese.
• Avoid using plastic or wooden utensils that can harbor bacteria in small cracks. Choose stainless-steel utensils instead. Also choose glass and porcelain containers for storing the cheese mixtures.
• Store your kitchen tools within easy reach of your prep area, to increase your efficiency.
• Be prepared. Always review the recipe before beginning to make sure you have all you need at hand.
Any craft has its tools, practices, and tricks of the trade. Stocking your kitchen with the appropriate equipment and ingredients will make cooking simple and efficient. To get you started on your cheese-making journey as quickly as possible, here is a comprehensive list of what you’ll need (asterisked items are discussed in further detail). With these items on hand, you can make any recipe in this book.
Blender, high-speed*
Citrus juicer or reamer
Cheesecloth*
Glass bowls, various sizes*
Mason jars, wide-mouthed (pint- and quart-size, with a mesh lid)
Measuring cups, dry (various sizes)
Measuring cups, liquid (1- and 2-cup)
Measuring spoons
Molds, forms, and containers*
Nonstick saucepan (nontoxic, such as Ecopan)*
Nut milk bag*
Plastic wrap
Spatula, silicone*
Strainer, fine-mesh*
Thermometer*
Waxed paper
Whisk, silicone
BLENDER, HIGH-SPEED If you are going to buy just one kitchen appliance, hands down, a blender is it. High-powered blenders make quick work of nuts and can turn them into nut butters and nut milks within minutes. Unlike a food processor, which chops and grinds ingredients, high-speed blenders truly blend, creating creamy, smooth consistencies essential in nondairy cheese making.
CHEESECLOTH A woven gauzelike cotton cloth used primarily in cheese making. Cheesecloths can also be used in place of a nut bag for straining solids from nut milks. Look for the Butter Muslin or Grade 90# variety. The common cheesecloth is not as finely woven and four layers are usually required to efficiently strain plant milks and cheeses. You will need an 18-inch square piece of cheesecloth to work with.
GLASS BOWLS Staples of any kitchen, a variety of bowls is especially handy for our purposes. You’ll need a set of glass bowls, in a variety of sizes, for both the fermentation process, and at least one large and deep enough so that when you place the strainer over it, it fits with room for the drip.
MOLDS, FORMS, AND CONTAINERS Professional cheese molds are wonderful but really quite unnecessary. Any food-safe container will work perfectly. Small bowls, ramekins, muffin pans, cookie cutters, and even silicone ice cube trays will work wonders.
NONSTICK SAUCEPAN A convenient cooking surface that prevents food from sticking while cooking. It is extremely invaluable when working with dairy- and plant-based milks and cheese mixes. Most, however, contain extremely toxic chemicals. Look for Ecopans. These ceramic pans use eco-friendly ingredients to produce a nonstick surface for easier nontoxic cooking.
NUT MILK BAG Made from ultrafine nylon mesh, they are effective tools for straining small particles of solids from nut, seed, and grain milks. Nut milks bags are also reusable.
SILICONE SPATULA This flexible, heat-resistant spatula makes it simple to get your mixtures out of blenders and bowls, especially when working with sticky, cheesy ingredients.
STRAINER, FINE-MESH Fine-mesh strainers have many uses in the kitchen. For our purposes, we’ll use them to strain liquid out of our cheesy mixtures. Look for one that would comfortably fit over a medium bowl.
THERMOMETER Although not necessary, a thermometer is a handy tool while you are learning to read the temperature of the milk. Any food-safe, mercury-free thermometer will do.
Several indispensable ingredients are regularly used in the cheese recipes included in this book. Some may be very familiar while others may not be. Before attempting the recipes, it’s helpful to understand what these ingredients are and why they are used. This list will make it simple to stock your pantry with all the cheese staples you’ll need and will allow you to prepare the cheeses on short notice.
AGAR, also called agar-agar, is a plant-based gelatin substitute made of a tasteless seaweed derivative. It is used as a stabilizing and thickening agent. Agar is available in flake, stick, and powder form. The powdered form dissolves most easily in hot water and is easier to work with in our recipes. Something to note when cooking with agar is that it is not heat reversible, meaning that agar-based cheeses will not melt.
CARRAGEENAN is also a seaweed derivative that has been used as a thickening, stabilizing, and gelling agent for hundreds of years. Carrageenan comes in three forms, but for the purposes of cheese making, look for Kappa carrageenan. It can be purchased online from specialty food retailers listed in the resource page of this book (page 179). We will use it to make firm block and wheel cheeses.
CAULIFLOWER The spongy, anti-inflammatory, heart-healthy flowering vegetable we know as cauliflower is a good source of protein, phosphorous, and potassium. It is also one of our superstar cheese-making vegetables.
CHICKPEAS, also called garbanzo beans, are an excellent source of fiber, protein, and the mineral manganese that helps support bone development and wound healing. Best of all, the flavor and texture of the heart-healthy chickpea makes it another star in vegetable-based cheeses.
CHICKPEA MISO PASTE is a Japanese seasoning paste produced through the fermentation of chickpeas with salt and the fungus kojikin. I use chickpea miso for its mild savory taste. It contributes to the cheese’s ripened flavor.
EXTRA-FIRM TOFU is made from soy milk that has been coagulated and pressed in a process not dissimilar from how cheese is made. The recipes in this book call for extra-firm tofu. Be sure to select an organic, non-genetically-modified (non-GMO) brand.
FILTERED OR SPRING WATER has been purified through filtration to remove chlorine and impurities. It is recommended in all recipes and is essential for producing live bacterial cultures that are used for fermenting plant-based milks, cream, and cheeses.
QUINOA This protein-rich grain keeps our red blood cells healthy and creates proper energy production in our cells. And it can be used to create the irresistible creamy texture in vegetable cheeses.
NUTRITIONAL YEAST, affectionately termed “nooch,” is a nonactive form of yeast that has a cheesy, nutty flavor and is often used as a vegan cheese sprinkle. Rich in protein, minerals, and especially B vitamins, it is often used as a nutritional supplement. Nutritional yeast flakes can be found in most natural food stores or from online food retailers. Be sure to check the resource section at the end of this book.
NONDAIRY MILK There are many nondairy milks on the market. Look for fortified varieties and those using organic, non-GMO ingredients. Or better yet, make your own by following the recipes on pages 33–34.
NONDAIRY YOGURT Soy-, coconut-, and nut-based dairy-free yogurts are commercially available. If you would like to make your own, follow my homemade recipe on page 37.
NUTS AND SEEDS Rich in energy and protein, packed with antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids, nuts and seeds also contain vitamin E, trace minerals, and fiber. A great number of the plant-based cheese recipes in this book are made with seeds and nuts.
ORGANIC REFINED COCONUT OIL Extracted from the flesh of the coconut, coconut oil is essential for thickening many of the cheese recipes in the book. Similar to dairy butter but without the cholesterol, organic refined coconut oil can be found in the natural section of most grocery stores.
PROBIOTICS are friendly bacteria often taken as a health supplement. Found mostly in capsule form, in the supplement section of your health food store, the powder is used as the starter for culturing cheeses, for taste and texture. Simply open probiotic capsules and empty the powder into a small bowl. A teaspoon is usually equivalent to six to eight capsules.
RAW APPLE CIDER VINEGAR This light, golden brown vinegar is made from organic and unpasteurized apple cider. Look for organic, unpasteurized apple cider vinegar that has the edible sediment known as “the mother.”
REJUVELAC This nonalcoholic fermented liquid made from grain serves as a culturing agent for fermenting cheeses. It helps create the tangy, sharp and ripened quality in cultured cheeses.
SWEET POTATO provides vital minerals—such as iron, calcium, magnesium, manganese, and potassium—that are essential for enzyme, protein, and carbohydrate metabolism. The starchy tuber also helps create wonderfully creamy vegetable cheeses.
TAHINI This paste, made of sesame seeds, is nutty in flavor and is used in some plant-based cheeses to enhance flavor and texture.
TAPIOCA FLOUR This gluten-free flour (aka tapioca starch), made from cassava root, is an excellent thickening agent that produces a gooey, stretchy texture when heated in liquids. It is the thickener of choice in my cheese sauce, dip, and fondue recipes. Available in natural food stores or online retailers.
ZUCCHINI An outstanding source of manganese and vitamin C, the zucchini, also known as courgette, is technically a fruit. Its subtle taste and buttery white flesh make zucchini another superstar in the world of vegetable-based cheeses.
Herbs and spices are used readily to boost flavor and add interest in most of the recipes in this book, but are also some of the healthiest foods as well. They raise the flavor profile of the homemade cheese itself and of whatever other ingredients it’s being mixed and matched with. They can also be fun to experiment with when trying to switch up a dish. The herbs and spices used throughout the book include:
BASIL Antiaging, anti-inflammatory, eases arthritis pain
BLACK PEPPERCORNS Aids digestion, increases metabolism
CARDAMOM Promotes heart health, aids digestion
CAYENNE PEPPER Reduces inflammation, boosts metabolism
CHILI POWDER Regulates blood pressure, reduces pain
CILANTRO Soothes sore throat, speeds digestion
CINNAMON Helps control blood sugar, reduces bad cholesterol
DILL Helps control levels of blood cholesterol, antioxidant
GARLIC Protects against heart disease, antibacterial, antiviral
GINGER Aids digestion, soothes upset stomach, anti-inflammatory
MUSTARD Improves circulation, relieves congestion
OREGANO Antibacterial, antifungal, reduces inflammation
PARSLEY Calms nerves, antioxidant
ROSEMARY Improves digestion, enhances concentration
SEA SALT Offers trace minerals that have been processed out of table salt
THYME Reduces inflammation, controls blood pressure
TURMERIC Regulates hormones, boosts metabolism, anti-inflammatory
WASABI Improves circulation, boosts metabolism
Thanks to the prevalence of plant-based diets and a growing focus on health, nutrition-packed nuts and seeds are more popular than ever. Extremely versatile, they can be turned into milks, flours, and butters. They can also be made into cheeses, sauces, and spreads. Since a great number of the plant-based cheese recipes in this book are nut- or seed-based, let’s go through some basics.
We will be using a variety of nuts and seeds that not only add distinct taste variations, but also affect the texture of nondairy cheeses. Almonds make clean-tasting cheeses; macadamias, lovely creamy varieties that develop good firm texture; while cashews produce smooth, easy-to-flavor cheeses with softer textures. Seeds, especially sunflower, hemp, and pumpkin, add an almost smoky taste to cheeses, and cheeses made with pine nuts are very rich and distinctive. Follow the recipes in this book to get a sense of the variations, then have fun experimenting on your own.
SUBSTITUTING NUTS AND SEEDS
Many of the nuts and seeds used in the recipes are interchangeable. Nuts and seeds with similar texture can be easily swapped for personal preference or convenience. Note, however, that these changes may alter the flavor profile of the recipe.
The nut- and seed-based cheese recipes in the book all call for nuts and seeds in their raw form to avoid the denaturing of nutrients and the breakdown of fats that could make them more vulnerable to oxidation when exposed to high temperatures. They do, however, require soaking.
Always begin by soaking your nuts and seeds, following the recommended times in the handy table on page 29. Make sure to rinse and drain them properly. Allot enough time for soaking before beginning a recipe or prepare to have soaked nuts ready in the refrigerator. Soaked and drained nuts will keep, refrigerated, for five days; soaked and drained seeds will keep for three days.
When blending soaked nuts and/or seeds in your high-speed blender, make sure to scrape down the sides of the blender bowl to ensure a smooth and creamy texture. Always strain the cheese mixture through a cheesecloth-lined strainer to eliminate any excess moisture.
When working with almonds, it is essential that they be skinless, to ensure the creamy texture necessary for cheese making. Blanching your own almonds is a simple process and is much more cost effective than buying them blanched.
To blanch almonds, bring a small pot of water to a boil. Place your raw almonds in the boiling water and let them boil for exactly one minute. Drain the almonds immediately in a colander and rinse them with cold water. Blot the almonds dry. Carefully squeeze the almonds with your fingers to loosen the skin. You now have blanched almonds.
Most nuts and seeds are common and widely available. You can find online resources for quality bulk nuts and seeds if your natural food store doesn’t carry them. Remember that all the recipes in this book call for raw nuts and seeds.
STORING: Store raw nuts and seeds in sealable containers, such as mason jars, and keep in the refrigerator or freezer for maximum shelf life.
SOAKING: Soaking nuts and seeds is essential to soften them before processing, which makes the puree creamier and the puree process easier and quicker. It is especially important when the water content in the recipe is low. Presoaking is less vital when larger amounts of water is used for processing.
To soak nuts and seeds, place in a mason jar, fill with twice as much water by volume, screw the lid closed and leave for the specified time at room temperature. Drain the nuts or seeds and rinse thoroughly. Soaked and drained nuts will keep, refrigerated, for five days; soaked and drained seeds will keep for three days.
NUTS AND SEEDS |
FLAVOR AND TEXTURE |
SOAKING TIME |
|
NUTS |
Almonds |
Creamy and mild |
8 to 12 hours |
Brazil nuts |
Rich and creamy |
6 hours |
|
Cashews |
Rich and creamy |
6 hours |
|
Hazelnuts |
Nutty and rich |
8 to 12 hours |
|
Macadamias |
Thick and rich |
6 hours |
|
Pecans |
Hearty and nutty |
8 hours |
|
Pine nuts |
Rich and earthy |
1 hour |
|
Pistachios |
Creamy and rich |
8 hours |
|
Walnuts |
Nutty and hearty |
8 hours |
|
SEEDS |
Chia |
Neutral |
none |
Flax |
Smooth and nutty |
1 hour |
|
Hemp |
Mild, thick, and creamy |
none |
|
Pumpkin |
Strong flavored |
8 hours |
|
Sesame |
Rich and nutty |
6 hours |
|
Sunflower |
Nutty and slightly bitter |
8 hours |
|
Nuts are rich in protein, vitamins, minerals, and essential unsaturated and monounsaturated fats. Seeds are also high in protein, B vitamins, minerals, essential unsaturated and monounsaturated fats, and dietary fibers.
