Essential Ingredients for Baking

The four most important things to know about ingredients for baking are:

1. The best quality will produce the best results.

2. These recipes are carefully crafted and tested. Substituting may alter the flavor and texture.

3. Weighing is easier, faster, and more accurate than measuring by volume, especially because different brands of measuring cups and spoons vary (see Equipment for Baking for recommended brands). I usually use measuring spoons instead of weights for small amounts of ingredients such as salt and spices, but not for yeast because using the most precise amount gives more control over rising times.

4. If measuring by volume, use dry measuring cups for dry ingredients and liquid measuring cups for liquids.

Note: Weight is given first because it is the most accurate. Volume is listed in measuring spoons, cups, and milliliters. In some instances the volume is rounded off so it may be a slightly different weight for the same volume. If using volume rather than weight, you might need to estimate from the nearest marking on the glass. For example, for 120 milliliters, measure to a little bit under the 125 milliliter mark.

Water

All the recipes in this book were tested with tap water. However, if the water in your region is not suitable, bottled spring water is best. (The high amounts of minerals in mineral water will affect the outcome of baked goods.) When measuring water by volume, set the measuring cup on a flat surface and read the measurement at eye level from the bottom of meniscus (the curved upper surface of the water).

Flours

Except when making flourless cakes and meringues, flour is the most important ingredient in baking. The type of flour used, particularly its protein content and whether it is bleached or unbleached, affects both texture and flavor. The types of flour used in this book are:

• Bleached cake flour and bleached all-purpose flour for cakes
• Bleached all-purpose flour and unbleached pastry flour for pie and pastry dough
• Bleached all-purpose flour for cookie dough
• Unbleached all-purpose flour and unbleached bread flour for bread dough
• Wondra flour is optional, but it is ideal for dusting pie, pastry, and cookie dough, as it is precooked and, because of its granularity, will be absorbed less into the dough.

Note: My recommended all-purpose flour is General Mills. (It is important to use a national brand; protein content varies widely with regional ones.) My recommended pastry flours are Bessie and King Arthur. My recommended bread flour is Gold Medal from General Mills, or a mixture of half other bread flour and half unbleached all-purpose flour.

When measuring flour by volume, avoid shaking or tapping the cup as that will increase the amount of flour in the cup and cause the baked good to be heavy, dry, and crumbly.

Baking Spray with Flour

This is a combination of flour and oil, and is sprayed on baking pans to ensure a clean release. It is faster, neater, and more effective than greasing and flouring. Baker’s Joy brand is odor free and releases the best. Alternatively, to grease and flour a pan, coat the inside of the pan with solid vegetable shortening; add flour and rotate the pan so that it coats completely. Then invert the pan and tap out the excess flour.

Nonstick Cooking Spray

This useful product contains oil and lecithin, and is ideal for keeping baked goods from sticking to the wire rack. Pam brand is odor free.

Measuring Dry Ingredients

Whisk flour before measuring it.

Lightly spoon flour into the measuring cup.

Or sift the flour into the cup, as the recipe directs.

Level off the excess flour.

1 cup of cake flour spooned lightly into the cup, weighing 114 grams.

1 cup of sifted cake flour, weighing 100 grams.

Sugar

Superfine sugar is specified in recipes such as some cookies (for a smoother dough) and meringue (because it dissolves more effectively in the egg white). Fine granulated sugar works well for most recipes. It is coarser than superfine, but can be processed in a food processor to simulate superfine if needed. The two most common brands of granulated and superfine sugar available are C&H and Domino. C&H’s superfine is slightly finer.

Brown Sugar and Muscovado Sugar

Brown sugar is refined sugar to which molasses has been added back after processing. Muscovado sugar contains some of the original molasses that has not been extracted. My preference is India Tree light or dark Muscovado for their delicious complexity of flavor. Light Muscovado is closest in molasses content to a combination of light and dark brown sugars. In recipes where more molasses would overwhelm other flavors, I list light brown sugar as a substitute. In recipes where more molasses would enhance the flavor, I list dark brown sugar as a substitute. Store in an airtight container. If it hardens, set a damp piece of paper towel in a shallow cup of foil on top. Cover tightly for several hours.

Measuring Small Quantities

Level off the excess when using measuring spoons.

Salt

Fine sea salt contains no additives and is easiest to measure accurately and consistently. Transfer the salt to a lidded container to make it easier to measure.

Baking Powder

Baking powders are mixtures of dry acid or acid salts and baking soda, with starch or flour added to standardize and help stabilize the mixtures. When they react—or liberate carbon dioxide—the carbon dioxide gas causes baked goods to rise. Double-acting baking powders react partially from moisture during mixing and partially when exposed to heat during baking.

Choose a variety that is an all-phosphate product containing calcium acid phosphate, not one containing sodium aluminum sulfate or SAS. I recommend Rumford baking powder. It is found in most supermarkets and health food stores. It lacks the bitter aftertaste associated with SAS baking powders from the aluminum in the sodium aluminum sulfate.

Baking powder should be stored in an airtight container to protect against humidity, which will activate it. Depending on how it is stored, baking powder can lose a large amount of its power after about a year. Date the top or bottom of the can when you first buy it. To test if it is still active, sprinkle a little over hot water. If it fizzes actively, you can still use it.

The weight of baking powder varies widely depending on storage and humidity. I find that the average weight is 4.5 grams per teaspoon. For consistency when measuring, stir it lightly with a small spatula or spoon before measuring it.

Baking Soda

Also known as sodium bicarbonate, baking soda causes baked goods to rise when activated. When moistened, it reacts with acidic ingredients in the recipe to produce carbon dioxide. It has an indefinite shelf life if it is not exposed to moisture or humidity. After opening it, transfer it to a canning jar or container with a tight fitting lid. It usually clumps on storage, so if measuring it by volume first use a spoon to mash any large lumps, then dip the measuring spoon into it. Slice through it with the edge of a small metal spatula about three times before sweeping off the excess with the flat part of the blade.

Yeast

I recommend using instant yeast because of its reliability. It is fine to whisk the yeast into the flour before adding the water, but the yeast can also be soaked (hydrated) in warm water from the recipe (at least three times its volume) for 10 minutes. If yeast has been frozen, allow it to come to room temperature before adding water. Instant yeast is nationally available in supermarkets under brand names such as Fleischmann’s Bread Machine Yeast or RapidRise Yeast, Red Star Quick-Rise, SAF Instant, and SAF Gourmet Perfect Rise.

If unopened, yeast will last at room temperature for up to 2 years. Once opened, it is best to store it in the freezer. If you buy it in bulk, remove a small amount for regular use and freeze both the larger and smaller amounts to ensure maximum shelf life, which is at least 1 year.

I list weights for yeast because a small amount can make a large difference.

Separating Eggs

Eggs

All my recipes use USDA graded large eggs, which means that twelve eggs in the shell should weigh a minimum of 24 ounces/680 grams and a maximum of 30 ounces/850 grams. This does not mean, however, that all large eggs are the same weight. Also, the ratio of white to yolk in an egg can vary to such a degree that a recipe calling for 6 yolks may actually need as many as 9. It is therefore advisable, when making recipes that rely on egg whites for loft or yolks for richness, to weigh or measure the separated whites and yolks and add or reduce if needed. Since cakes are so dependent on eggs for their structure, it is also a good idea to weigh or measure whole eggs, even when using large eggs. The weights given for eggs on the recipe ingredient charts are without the shells.

Eggs, still in the shell, can be brought to room temperature by setting them in a bowl of hot tap water for 5 minutes.

Cracking and Separating Eggs

Egg shells break most cleanly when tapped firmly on a flat surface, not on the edge of a bowl.

When whipping egg whites, even a drop of yolk will prevent the whites from whipping to stiff peaks. For that reason, have an extra small bowl for separating one egg at a time before adding the white to a larger bowl.

When separating the yolk from the white, clean hands work better than any separating device. You can also break an egg into a bowl and carefully fish out the yolk with your hand, but if it should break into the white, do not use the white for whipping unless you can remove the yolk completely. If only a drop of yolk gets into the white, the broken shell works like a magnet to remove it.

Beating Egg Whites

Make sure the bowl, whisk beater, and egg whites are entirely free of any oil or fat, including egg yolk. Use metal bowls; glass is slippery and the whites won’t whip as well. Avoid plastic bowls, which can retain residual oil. If you don’t use a dishwasher, as added insurance wet a paper towel and add a little white vinegar. Wipe the inside of the bowl, rinse it thoroughly, and dry it with a clean paper towel.

Start whipping egg whites on medium-low speed. Gradually raise the speed to medium-high and whip until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. In most recipes, sugar, if used, should be added gradually, with the mixer on, to maintain maximum air bubbles. Continue whipping until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

Cream of Tartar

Also known as potassium acid tartrate, this by-product of winemaking has an indefinite shelf life if not exposed to moisture or humidity. Use 1 teaspoon cream of tartar per 1 cup/240 grams egg whites (⅛ teaspoon per egg white), double this amount if using eggs that were pasteurized in the shell, to stabilize the egg whites and prevent them from drying out by overbeating. When using an electric mixer, it is fine to add the cream of tartar right at the beginning of beating, but if beating by hand using a whisk, add it after the egg white starts foaming. (A teaspoon of cream of tartar, dissolved in the water, also helps to prevent aluminum pans from discoloring when used as a water bath.)

Storing Eggs

Store eggs in a covered container, bottom (larger end) up, for maximum freshness.

Egg whites keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Unbroken yolks, covered with water or coated with nonstick cooking spray to prevent drying, will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Egg whites freeze perfectly and keep for at least 1 year. Store them in small airtight containers, as they should not be refrozen after thawing.

It is also possible to freeze egg yolks. Stir in ½ teaspoon sugar per yolk to keep them from becoming sticky after they are thawed. (Remember to subtract this amount of sugar from any recipe in which you are using them.)

Egg Safety for Raw or Partially Cooked Eggs

Food safety experts agree that the risk of salmonella infection from raw or partially cooked eggs is highest for young children, the elderly, pregnant women, and those whose immune systems are impaired.

To prevent salmonella in preparations calling for uncooked or lightly cooked eggs, the American Egg Board recommends using eggs pasteurized in the shell, such as Safest Choice (available in some markets; “pasteurized” will be marked on the carton), or liquid pasteurized egg whites, which are available in many supermarkets. Cream of tartar can still be added for stability. Pasteurized organic kosher egg whites with no additives can be ordered from Eggology; AllWhites brand is also kosher. They keep refrigerated for up to 4 months and for more than a year if frozen.

Pasteurization makes uncooked eggs safe for buttercreams and prevents contamination of your work area. When beating egg whites without additives or from eggs pasteurized in the shell, use double the cream of tartar specified in the recipe (¼ teaspoon per egg white/2 tablespoons/30 grams). Longer beating of the egg whites (a total of about 10 minutes) will be required but will result in the most stable meringue possible.

Gelatin

Gelatin is an animal product that causes liquids to thicken and set. Powdered gelatin is the most common form and the easiest to use. It needs to be bloomed (softened) in cool water for at least 5 minutes before being heated to dissolve it, which enables it to be effective as a thickening agent.

Gelatin requires a minimum of 4 hours to thicken adequately, and will continue to thicken a mixture over a 24 hour period. Once it has reached maximum thickness, it will not thicken more, even on freezing, but freezing will not affect its thickening power. A gelatin mixture can be frozen, thawed, remelted, and refrozen several times before it loses its thickening capability. Kojel produces kosher gelatin, which is made of vegetable gum, tapioca dextrin, and acids.

Heavy Cream

Heavy cream, also referred to as “heavy whipping cream,” contains 56.6 percent water and 36 to 40 percent butterfat (averaging 36 percent). “Whipping cream” has only 30 percent fat. The higher the butterfat and the colder the cream, the easier it is to whip and the more stable the whipped cream. To determine the fat content, look at the total fat in the nutritional information on the side of the container: 1 tablespoon of 40 percent cream will contain 6 grams total fat. Organic Valley and Stonyfield are two brands that contain 40 percent butterfat.

Heavy cream will not whip when it has been frozen and thawed, but frozen heavy cream can be used for making ganache.

Dry Milk Powder

Adding dry milk powder when making bread results in a tender texture. My preference is King Arthur Baker’s Special Dry Milk because it results in the most tender texture and highest rise. Unlike other dry milk, it is heated to a high enough temperature to deactivate the enzyme protease, which otherwise impairs yeast production and—what is most critical—gluten formation and structure. The high heat produces an exceptionally fine powder that disperses uniformly through the dry ingredients. This fine powder packs down when measuring by volume so if replacing Baker’s Special Dry Milk with “instant” dry milk, you will need to double the volume to arrive at the same weight.

Butter

It is best to use grade AA or A butter, which contains about 81 percent fat and 15.5 percent water. Lower grades usually contain more water, which will have a detrimental effect in a cake batter; they will not work well at all in mousseline buttercream, will make a less tender pie crust, and will result in a puffier cookie. High fat butter is ideal for buttercreams.

It is best to weigh butter because a 113 gram/4 ounce stick of butter when unwrapped often weighs only 109 grams/3.86 ounces.

I prefer unsalted butter because it makes it easier for the baker to control the total amount of salt in the recipe, and because it has a fresher flavor. I recommend a top-quality butter such as Organic Valley Cultured Butter, Hotel Bar Unsalted Butter, or Land O’Lakes Unsalted Sweet Butter. The flavor of cultured butter is particularly delicious in buttercreams.

Butter freezes well for several months with no perceptible difference in flavor or performance. Because butter absorbs other aromas or odors readily, if freezing it, wrap it well in plastic wrap and place it in a reclosable plastic freezer storage bag.

The temperature of the butter is important to the finished texture of the baked good, so it’s included in each recipe. When the recipe calls for softening the butter, if the room is cold and the butter doesn’t soften quickly enough, cut it into pieces and it will soften faster.

Cream Cheese

Full-fat Philadelphia and Organic Valley cream cheese are the best choices for both flavor and texture for the recipes in this book.

Canola and Safflower Oils

Flavorless vegetable oils are the best choice for most baked goods made with oil.

Corn Syrup

I prefer light corn syrup to dark corn syrup for its neutral flavor. A small amount added to sugar when caramelizing helps prevent crystallization. Syrups are sticky, so if measuring by volume rather than weighing, it helps either to coat the cup with nonstick cooking spray or rinse it with water before adding the syrup.

Golden Syrup

This by-product of sugar refining has a delicious butterscotch flavor. It can be used interchangeably with light corn syrup. If it crystallizes on storage, set it in a pan of simmering water and stir it often until the crystals have dissolved.

Vanilla Extract

Pure vanilla extract imparts a lovely flavor to baked goods and also serves as a flavor enhancer. High-quality brands are available in some super-markets, in specialty food stores, and online. My favorites are Nielsen-Massey and The Vanilla Company.

Vanilla Beans

The seeds contained inside the vanilla bean pod add a subtle depth of flavor and unique floral sweetness to baked goods. In most cases, it works best to scrape the seeds into the sugar in the recipe and process them together. The pod can then be dried in the oven at the lowest temperature or near a hot burner. When dry, bury it in sugar. Use the resulting vanilla sugar in recipes, replacing about 8 percent of the sugar in the recipe, or in your coffee or tea if you’d like. When purchasing vanilla beans, choose plump, moist ones. Tahitian vanilla beans are my favorite. They are the most plump, moist, and aromatic. As a rule of thumb, 1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extra is equal to a 2 inch piece of vanilla bean (1 inch if Tahitian). To keep vanilla beans moist, wrap them well and freeze them.

Vanilla Bean Paste

This excellent product contains vanilla seeds combined with vanilla extract, natural gum thickeners, and a small amount of sugar, varying by manufacturer. Most can be used in equal volume to replace vanilla extract, but it is best to check the label for suggested amounts.

Chocolate

Dark chocolate is made up of cocoa solids and cocoa butter, referred to as chocolate “liquor” or “cacao.” The rest is sugar. The higher the percentage of cacao, the lower the percentage of sugar. Almost all the chocolate recipes in this book were developed using 60% to 62% cacao. A different percentage will affect both the flavor and the texture of the recipe. Milk chocolate has a lower percentage of cacao, and also contains milk solids in addition to sugar.

When purchasing dark or milk chocolate, choose your favorite brand. When purchasing white chocolate, be sure to choose brands that contain only cocoa butter and flavorings, not vegetable oil.

Cocoa Powder

Unsweetened cocoa powder is pulverized pure chocolate liquor (the combined cacao solids and cocoa butter) with three-quarters of its cocoa butter removed. I prefer the flavor of Dutch processed, also known as alkalized cocoa. This refers to the process by which the cocoa powder has been treated with a mild alkali to mellow its flavor and neutralize its acidity; this also makes it easier to dissolve. Three of my favorite cocoas are Green & Black’s, Agostoni, and Van Houten. If you are substituting natural cocoa in a recipe that uses baking powder, replace the baking powder with one-quarter to one-third of its volume in baking soda.

Nuts

Always taste nuts before using them because the oils they contain can become rancid. Store nuts in an airtight container in a cool place or the freezer. Frozen they will keep for over a year. Be sure to bring the nuts to room temperature if processing them. Lightly toasting nuts will bring out their flavor and, in the case of walnuts, help to loosen their bitter skins. I give instructions in the recipes when you will want to do this.

Apples

For baking it is best to choose tart apples with a low water content so that they hold their shape after softening on baking. If a recipe calls for several apples, it is great to use a combination. Some of my favorites are Macoun, Rhode Island Greening, Empire, and Cortland. To get perfect slices for a galette, cut the apple in half and use a melon baller to remove the core.

Citrus Zest

Zest is the colored portion of the citrus peel or rind that is grated. The white portion, or pith, beneath should be avoided since it tastes bitter. Fruit should be zested before squeezing (unless the peels are frozen), which is why it is listed in the ingredients charts slightly out of order from where it is added to the recipe. Wash the fruit with liquid dish washing detergent and hot water and rinse it well, or it will add a bitter taste to the recipe. If a recipe calls for finely grated zest, if not using a Microplane type grater, use a chef’s knife to chop it to a fine consistency or process it with some of the sugar in the recipe.

Approximate Yield of Juice and Zest for an Orange and Lemon

One Orange

Juice: 63 to 126 grams/¼ to ½ cup/59 to 118 ml

Zest: 12 to 18 grams/2 to 3 tablespoons, loosely packed

One Lemon

Juice: 47 to 63 grams/3 to 4 tablespoons/44 to 59 ml

Zest: 2 to 4 grams/1¼ teaspoons to 2 teaspoons, loosely packed

High Altitude Baking

If you live at high altitude (above 3,000 feet), I recommend following the USDA guidelines for the appropriate altitude adjustments and the following book: Pie in the Sky by baking authority Susan Purdy (who tested recipes at five different altitudes from sea level to 10,000 feet).