Even though I am a restaurant critic, I know, without the slimmest doubt, that even a middle-of-the-road chef knows more about food than the greatest critic. More succinctly put by Oscar Wilde (who, admittedly, came to a bad end), “The critic has to educate the public; the artist has to educate the critic.” In my working life as a restaurant critic, I’ve tried to keep my eyes on the artists as I juggled my paltry quiver of words. Chefs will always have better weapons than writers, and that’s why I’ll always have my eyes trained on chefs.
I give my heartfelt thanks to Hudson Valley chefs who stole time from their unforgiving schedules to talk with me and contribute recipes to this book. Clearly, it is their book—I was just the one taking notes.
Thanks to the peerless photographer, Andre Baranowski, for embarking on this giant project—against, one must note, all practical sense. Andre’s hard work and stunning artistry give beauty to the document in your hands and I have been incredibly blessed by his collaboration. Andre, I owe you forever.
My deepest appreciation goes to Amy Lyons of Globe Pequot press for reaching out from the blue and taking a chance on a writer whose work is sometimes strewn with F-bombs and is often followed by nasty website comments. I’m grateful to Amy for inviting me on this adventure and, also, for her patience when it finally came to an end. Thanks to Janet Crawshaw, publisher of the excellent Valley Table Magazine, for her gracious advice. Thanks to Esther Davidowitz for her timely encouragement and thanks to Nancy Claus for her empathy. Thanks to Westchester Magazine for indulging me these many years.
Thanks to Chef Peter Kelly for his unerring wisdom and kindness when I needed it most, at the beginning of my career. I know that I am not the only person in this book who has benefited from his quiet advocacy. Not only has Chef Kelly nurtured many of the voices in these pages, but, in his own pioneering restaurants in the Hudson Valley, Kelly foretold what our dining scene would become. Chef Peter Kelly is McArthur and Patton rolled into one; it is said that some call him “The Pope” (but that’s never to his face).
Heartfelt thanks to Chef David DiBari for his blazing artistry, humor, and unshakable decency. Thanks to Stephen Paul Mancini and Chef Eric Gabrynowicz for effortless excellence irresistibly paired with elite intoxicants. Thanks to Chef Matt Hutchins for his Beacon insights and thanks to Chef Chris Vergara for his ability to cheerfully overlook my insanity. Thanks to Chef Christian Petroni, Rob Krauss, Coby Blount, and John T. Nealon for making me laugh until I cried. Thanks to Baron Ambrosia for enriching my life with preposterousness. Thanks to Chef Dan Barber and to Chef Zak Pelaccio for their generosity during long, often rambling, interviews.
This book could not have been written without the support of my husband, James Sexton, who has eaten with me and argued with me for the length of my career. Not only does he have one of the keenest minds that I’ve ever encountered, but, when the day-to-night demands of my profession overwhelm our little family, he gamely steps up. Thanks from the bottom of my heart.