11 KITTLE ROAD
CHAPPAQUA, NY 10514
(914) 666-8044
PARTNERS: JOHN CRABTREE AND GLENN VOGT;
EXECUTIVE CHEF: JAY LIPPIN
While it’s no secret that a restaurant has operated at 11 Kittle Road since the 1920s, in fact much of the Kittle House story lies underground, both figuratively and literally. Not only was the eighteenth-century structure operated as a roadhouse during Prohibition, but, since the 1980s—when the Crabtree family purchased it—the building’s cellar has housed a world-class wine collection.
Crabtree’s Kittle House is one of only about seventy restaurants in the world to hold Wine Spectator Magazine’s Grand Award. You might have heard of some of the others in its cohort—the French Laundry in Yountville, California; Taillevent in Paris; and Daniel and Eleven Madison Park in New York City. You get the point: A Grand Award is a pretty big deal.
But even though the Kittle House’s wine program has made it an oenophile icon, only a small segment of diners drop in for that $25,000 Domaine de la Romanee Conti. Most of the Kittle House’s regulars are blissfully unaware of the 65,000 bottles below. Instead, they come for what has made the Kittle House beloved for more than thirty years: its warm heart.
Says Kittle House partner, Glenn Vogt, “There are several key reasons why we have been able to survive in this challenging business for as long as we have. The most important reason is hospitality. We’ve always focused on making our guests feel comfortable and well cared for, first and foremost. The second reason is the inherent quality in our food and beverage programs. Though chefs have come and gone from the Kittle House, the quality of the product and preparation has never wavered. We’ve used the same approach with wine and spirits. We’re presenting a world-class wine list with over five thousand selections for those who enjoy an elevated wine drinking experience—but we’re also offering a selection of wonderful and affordable options on a much shorter and easier-to-navigate wine list.”
Then, of course, there’s the fact that the Kittle House is an excellent neighbor. Over the years, the Kittle House has supported many charities—in summer look for their weekly “Sparkle for a Cause” garden parties that raise money for local charities.
(SERVES 3 AS AN APPETIZER)
6 tablespoons honey
4 tablespoons fig vinegar (available at specialty shops and Amazon.com)
4 ounces brown chicken or duck stock
½ teaspoon chopped fresh lemon thyme
2 Black Mission figs, quartered
3 (4-ounce) foie gras medallions (cleaned and separated into lobes)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 sprig lemon thyme, for garnish
To prepare the foie gras: In a medium-size saucepan over high heat, pour the honey and allow it to deepen in color, lightly caramelizing. When the honey starts to bubble, add the vinegar and the brown stock and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon to combine. Add the chopped lemon thyme and the quartered figs and stir very gently. When the figs are warm, approximately 3 minutes, remove them from the sauce and set aside. Let the sauce simmer on low heat.
Season the foie gras medallions with coarse salt and fresh pepper. Place a medium-size sauté pan over high heat. When very hot, carefully add foie gras. Sear for approximately 1 minute on each side (depending on the thickness of the medallion).
To plate: Arrange the figs on the plate and place the foie gras on top of the figs. Drizzle the caramelized honey sauce across the foie gras medallions and over the plate. Place the thyme sprig on top of the foie gras and serve.
(SERVES 9)
For the chocolate sponge cake:
4 ounces granulated sugar
16 eggs
9 ounces cake flour
3 ounces Valrhona cocoa powder
For the ganache filling:
3 quarts heavy cream
10 pounds dark Valrhona chocolate
For the pastry cream:
3 cups granulated sugar
21 large egg yolks
3 quarts milk
6 ounces cornstarch
2 vanilla beans, scraped
1 pound unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
For the gift:
1 box frozen phyllo pastry
To make the chocolate sponge cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a half-sheet pan (18 × 13-inch) with nonstick spray and line the bottom with a sheet of parchment paper. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine sugar and eggs and whip at medium speed. Sift together the flour and the cocoa powder. Add the flour and cocoa to the sugar and egg mixture and blend thoroughly. Pour the batter into the prepared sheet pan. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the cake is cooked through. To test, insert a bamboo skewer. If nothing clings to the skewer when you pull it out, the cake is done. Invert onto a rack and peel off parchment.
To make the ganache filling: In a double boiler set over simmering water, heat the cream. When hot, fold in the chocolate. Reserve.
To make the pastry cream: In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, blend the sugar and egg yolks together on medium speed. In a saucepan over medium heat, place milk, cornstarch, and scraped vanilla beans. Scald the mixture, stirring, but do not boil. Carefully pour the hot milk mixture into the sugar and egg mixture while mixing on medium speed. When combined, return the entire mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Stir in butter, then pour mixture into a bowl. Combine with ganache and set aside.
To assemble the gifts: Cut the chocolate sponge cake in half to form two layers. Place one layer on a parchment-lined tray whose sides are at least 2 inches high. Spread layer with the ganache mixture and then top the ganache with the other half of the chocolate sponge cake. Refrigerate.
Once the cake has completely cooled, cut it into equal sections of approximately 2 by 3 inches. Place two stacked leaves of phyllo dough on a board and place one piece of the layered cake onto the center of the dough. Wrap the phyllo around the top and sides to completely cover the cake. Wrap all the cakes the same way.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Place a wrapped gift with the seam side down onto a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown. Serve with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, or crème anglais.