HUDSON VALLEY CHEF’S TABLE

Named for the farm trucks that rumble down the edge of the Hudson Valley on New York State’s Route 22, Nancy Roper’s TRUCK manages to pay two different geographic homages in a single stroke. On one hand this stylish, idealized vision of rustic Americana is an ode to the local purveyors that provide TRUCK’s raw ingredients. Much of the food that TRUCK serves is cultivated nearby—and this includes everything from de rigueur locally raised lettuces to the more daringly sourced Long Island Sound oysters of Jeff Northrup’s New York Oyster Company in Westport, Connecticut.

But TRUCK also takes nourishment from the New Mexico of Chef Nancy Roper’s youth. Its menu gives small-town America a Southwestern spin with accessible, family-friendly tacos, burritos, and quesadillas. TRUCK proves that multiple generations can enjoy meals of healthful, locally raised food together—and this includes fussy kids (who may have been—God help them—raised on prepackaged lunches). For parents, TRUCK offers excellent margaritas, craft-distilled spirits, and beer. For everyone, TRUCK slings dreamy, nostalgic desserts that include perfect, Lilliputian cones of frozen custard and the adorably miniature Snowball Cake, included here.

TRUCK SNOWBALL CAKE

For the cake:

5 ounces organic unsalted butter, softened, plus more to butter cake pan

1 cup organic granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon sea salt (Roper prefers Maldon)

2 teaspoons baking powder

1½ cups organic cake flour

¼ cup cream of coconut (not coconut milk)

¼ cup water, room temperature

1 tablespoon rum

2 eggs

For the coconut cream cheese frosting:

8 ounces organic cream cheese, softened

2 ounces organic unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

½ cup powdered sugar

1 cup sweetened coconut

To make the cake: Carefully cut a circle of parchment paper the exact size of the bottom of a 6-inch cake pan. (These can be purchased at professional bakeware stores.) Butter the cake pan with melted butter and line the bottom of the pan with the parchment round. Preheat oven to 350°F.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until the mixture is light and creamy. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, stir together the salt, baking powder, and flour. In another bowl stir together the coconut cream, water, and rum and set aside. Once the butter and sugar are light and fluffy, add the eggs one at a time, beating until combined after each addition. When the eggs are fully incorporated, shut off the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure that all ingredients are combined.

With the mixer set to its lowest speed, add one-third of the flour mixture to the mixing bowl. Pour in half of the coconut mixture. Continue alternating the dry and wet mixtures until all the ingredients are incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and beat the batter for 3 minutes. Once the mixture is uniform, pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake for 27–30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and allow it to cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Invert the cake onto a baking rack and set aside.

To make the frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix cream cheese, butter, and vanilla extract until the mixture is uniform and no clumps remain. Add in powdered sugar and ½ cup coconut, mixing until everything is well combined.

To assemble the cake: Once the cake is cool, slice it into two even layers with a serrated knife. Spread about 1 tablespoon frosting on a cardboard round or cake stand so that the cake adheres to a firm base. Place the bottom layer of the cake cut side up onto the cardboard or stand. Spread about ½ cup frosting onto this layer. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for about 10 minutes. When the frosting is firm, top the first layer of the cake with the second layer, making sure that the rounded top of the cake remains on top of the assembled layer cake. Spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the assembled cake, making sure that all parts are covered. Finally, cover the sides and top of the cake with the remaining shredded coconut to create a furry snowball shape.